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Bed cracked in half

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Nathan Simers, Mar 28, 2016.

  1. John in MS

    John in MS Active Member

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    Well I just cracked my bed down the middle trying to remove a piece of PLA that went diagonal across the whole bed. Do you have pictures of your new set up?
     
  2. John in MS

    John in MS Active Member

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    What is PEI?
     
  3. Nathanfish

    Nathanfish Active Member

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  4. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Polyetherimide
     
  5. John in MS

    John in MS Active Member

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  6. John in MS

    John in MS Active Member

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    Well I have been looking around the internet this morning and ran across the Zebra bed. As I written I shattered my bed yesterday. My question is could I tape that bed back together and run a Zebra bed on top of it? I am running strictly PLA here and won't need the heat if that Zebra performs. Suggestions are welcome
     
  7. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I have both the zebra plate, and zebra skin. They both work great but I wouldn't use them on top of a bed that is broken in half.

    I think I actually prefer the zebra plate since its removable, two sided and you can bend it to pop prints off.. I use small binder clips with the handles removed.

    I have had some things stick really hard to both of them and having to slam/chizel dig on the zebra skin makes me worried..when its attached to the bed permanently basically.

    Zebra Plate:

    [​IMG]

    Zebra Skin:
    [​IMG]
     
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  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I use a gecko plate on my tinkering ditto (no heat bed). Might be worth taking a look. It performs well if you keep it clean but you should at least replace the glass on the bed. I'd suggest buying a new bed personally as one day you may want the heat and prints are much more reliable with some heat on the bed
     
  9. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I think robo will give you a discount on a new bed if you ask them. Not positive though but I heard they give discounts for broken parts out of warranty or non-warranty parts.
     
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  10. John in MS

    John in MS Active Member

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    Well I am a idiot. I put one of the magnets on backwards with superglue. I tried heating it with a lighter and soaking it with finger polish remover. Any suggestions?
     
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Just use straight Acetone, most fingernail polishes now sold in the US contain little or no Acetone. Lowes, Home Depot, Ace all sell Acetone in quart and gallon sizes. That should work.
     
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  12. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    I put the magnets in place on the carriage, a drop of glue on each magnet and *then* the glass bed and let it sit overnight while curing to avoid this issue when I replaced the bed on the original R1.
     
  13. John in MS

    John in MS Active Member

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    I've been communicating with someone from the Thingaverse board who glued a magnet backwards himself. He said he ended up drilling under the magnet on the Y carriage and pushing it out to flip it. This might be a route I go if an acetone soak doesn't do it.


    Earlier in the thread someone posted in the past with an earlier model you were able to attach another sheet of glass to prevent this sticking problem. Could it be done on the R1+ today?
     
  14. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Thats what I did as well. put the magnets on the carriage and put epoxy on top of them. i marked my bed s edges with a sharpie before hand to make sure I lined it up pretty good. Then sat the bed down with some books on top of it

    Sorry I don't know how to get superglue off.
     
  15. WZ9V

    WZ9V Active Member

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    Check your local hobby store, if they sell CA Glue (Super Glue) they usually carry the stuff that dissolves it also.
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Acetone will do it. You may need more concentrated than what you find these days in fingernail polish remover, but still...
     
  17. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Acetone works on almost all "super" adhesives with maybe the exception of J.B.Weld. It is nasty stuff, J.B.Weld that is. Two part epoxies require heat to break the bond, and depending on the set time more or less heat. 5-minute epoxy being the easiest to break at close to 200°F up to 24-hour epoxy around 350-400°F. J.B.Weld is somewhere around 600°F so for that you need to burn it into submission.

    All times are generalized, so your specific adhesive may fall just outside the ranges suggested.
     

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