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Bed, Extruder, IR Sensor replaced yet my issues are not over

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Sefa, Nov 21, 2017.

  1. Sefa

    Sefa New Member

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    My bad, the photos were private, moved them to a public host.
     
  2. Shrey

    Shrey Member

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    This had happened to my prints yesterday but I increased the extruded temp which solved the issue because for me the weather is really cold and that is kind of effecting it. That however is my situation yours could be different.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ¯\_(⊙︿⊙)_/¯
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    Nothing sticking to the bed is a Z offset issue. You need to rerun the wizard and then the fine-tuning wizard.

    Printing too cold might account for some of it as well
     
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  4. Sefa

    Sefa New Member

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    I had the same issue in the summer a couple of times, I was printing at 230 degrees. It may be the filament, I will try with another filament.
     
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo ✌(◕‿-)✌
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    Some filaments are just problems. Sometimes it may be just one spool or just one color from a supplier. That is just another reason why this is a tinkerer's hobby and not mainstream.
     
  6. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    Hmm...

    I saw your print bed (a Robo R2) covered with what appears to be green tape. I'm wondering if that's necessary at all, especially if you're having first-layer adhesion problems. From what I understand, the G29 autoleveling routine seems to work best with the stock black tape square or the BuildTak tape square they sometimes provide. I have heard from some that when they change tape color, they end up with Z-offset problems (too high/too low). Your problem could simply be an artifact of the IR sensor being confused by the color change. (Newer versions of the Robo OS may address this soon enough.)

    I think I'd suggest working with PLA material to begin with until you can then graduate on to other filament types. I usually print almost everything at 190 degrees C (unless it's carbon fiber, then 205 in my case). I do a reasonable job without a heated bed like yours but around 50 or 60 degrees C on the bed heater should help with adhesion, in theory.

    Might be best to start slowly. Print the spiral test file from the included files. If it doesn't adhere well, run the fine tuning wizard from the LCD menu, then return to the spiral test. Once you've dialed in the Z-offset (and assuming that you've removed the green tape) then I'm guessing you'll be back in business.
     
  7. Sefa

    Sefa New Member

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    I put the green painter's tape on because of my previous issue where my nozzle used to hit the bed resulting in damages and burns in the bed. Robo team told me to do it. My sticking problem seemed to be the repkord filament, I did not have it when i switched to hatchbox filaments again.

    However, I have another problem (I checked in the forum, Outsourcedguru used to have it too.), I get filament run out error even though it is a brandnew spool. I went through the troubleshoot, and disabled the filament sensor on octoprint. But it may be a good feature when the filament actually runs out. Are you still using it with the sensor off, or could you find a solution?
     
  8. Shrey

    Shrey Member

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    For me currently I use it with sensor off but sadly the thing is Robo knows about this issue as well and hasn’t done anything right now the best option is to use it with sensor off which does mean keeping an eye on the filament spool once it gets low


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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ¯\_(⊙︿⊙)_/¯
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    They need to send you a new sensor. Not sure how in-stock those are, but that is on them.
    Make sure you insist on getting it fixed.
     
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  10. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    I've designed an entirely new filament runout sensor and will install it soon. It's part of my big upgrade to the second extruder.

    1. Dual-spool external filament holder now in use (check)
    2. Ordered the upgraded DC power supply brick that will handle the increased amperage (check)
    3. Designed a pass-through mount for the old location where the filament holder went... but it needs a redesign to accommodate the stepper motor that just arrived (for the bowden)
    4. Designed the dual-spool runout sensor block with micro-switches, printed it, installed/soldered the components in it (check)
    5. Need to install the replacement sensor block, verify the connections at the Raspberry Pi 3's GPIO pins (since I hear that they sometimes didn't get crimped enough at the factory)...
    6. Need to replace the stock OctoPrint filament plugin with a smarter one

    SideView-C2andHolder.png DSC_0211.jpg DSC_0187.png
     

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