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Solved 'Beta' Original Robo 3D - Connected But No Control

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by gearprinter, Nov 14, 2020.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is a late beta, early R1 :)
    Has the R1 bed, but no autoleveling because I can see the single Z switch on the far right-hand rod.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is a fine spot to use the shims. Any place that will allow you to adjust the tilt/level of the glass will get the job done.
     
  3. gearprinter

    gearprinter Member

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    Thanks, good to know! I did a test with a sheet of paper to see how many layers would fit under the hot tip in each position (top left, top right, bottom left, bottom right). There is some minor differences but it's very down to fractions of a millimeter. Is that enough to botch my print results?

    I'll take some videos of the printer running (hopefully tonight).
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    With FDM printing the first layer is key. Get it wrong and your print will fail. So in that regard ... yes ... fractions of a mm matter. once the first layer is down it is more fogiving :)
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    you can cheat and try adding a raft to your print. that will help make things stick but will give you less of a clean bottom to the print.
     
  6. gearprinter

    gearprinter Member

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    Hmmm, I did a print with raft and about 4 minute in my nozzle clogged up and stopped extruding. Is it possible I need a new nozzle? I noticed it seems to clog up pretty regularly. Or maybe the hobbed bolt that pulls filament needs to be cleaned.

    I'm going to try and fix the balancing and add in some shims tomorrow when I have free time :)
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Nozzle swap is easy if you want to try (and cheap -- new brass nozzles are not expensive). Get one that is E3D compatible and you can put that on the hexagon -- unless you do not have the hexagon :) The early Robo R1 beta had J-Head (not all-metal) and the later R1 had the hexagon. You said earlier that yours already has an E3D IIRC. So you are good.
     
  8. gearprinter

    gearprinter Member

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    I just spent a couple hours trying to level the bed but I'm having issues. I need to raise the nozzle around 0.5mm from the hot plate when I click home in matter control. Can you tell me how to do that please?
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You need to adjust the Z home switch for that.
    It is the one attached to the bottom of the smooth rods on one side -- I mentioned it in this post:

    http://community.robo3d.com/index.p...ected-but-no-control.24148/page-3#post-141565

    and the picture I was referring to is this one it is in the top-right-hand corner :

    [​IMG]

    It has a screw on top that can be used to adjust where that switch will trip and you need to adjust it to trip 0.5mm sooner. This is also why autoleveling will not work on the beta -- it needs to have the Z switches relocated to the crossbar for the X axis to be able to actually sample bed height :) The beta used a single, fixed position Z switch. So it can't actually sense the position of the nozzle to the bed.
     
    #49 mark tomlinson, Nov 24, 2020
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2020
  10. gearprinter

    gearprinter Member

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    Is there a tutorial with step-by-step pictures or a video for autolevel mod? I tried searching around but couldn't find anything. It's unlikely I'll complete the mod properly with the written instructions. I might assemble it wrong and break something.

    Btw is this cheap lithium grease ok?

    https://www.rona.ca/en/multipurpose-lithium-grease-3-pack-03315240

    Or do I need this premium one:

    https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/permatex-white-lithium-grease-44-ml-0383713p.html

    Also, what's the plastic tube called that you feed filament into?

    Thanks again for answering all my silly noob questions :D
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The cheaper grease is likely fine. The plastic tube is technically PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene). 2mm ID, 4mm OD
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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