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Better filament loading - and screwless z-stop?

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by AutopsyTurvy, Oct 13, 2013.

  1. AutopsyTurvy

    AutopsyTurvy Active Member

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    Tesseract had mentioned that some printers have been modded to do a spring loading system, so you just press a thing and it hinges back or whatever and you stick your filament in.

    Is such a thing possible for the Robo 3D? I would design one myself if I had more knowledge of how the printer works and how the spring system is meant to work.

    I find the screws-on-springs system incredibly difficult - I have really bad problems with my hands with twisting motions and it takes me several tries and a lot of frustration to get those spring screws out and back in without losing the washers or having to stop and push through the pain of working a screwdriver.

    And related, would it be possible to do some kind of better adjustment to the z-stop? At least for me, that would be something that doesn't require such a combination of hand strength and twisting motion - while I -can- do it, my wrists click and clack more than the switch itself.

    I would be happy to help with designing of models as that I can do mostly pain-free... I'm just not a mechanical engineer and my understanding of the printers workings is very basic.
     
    #1 AutopsyTurvy, Oct 13, 2013
  2. 1d1

    1d1 Active Member

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    Ms. Turvy: here is the sort of thing PS was talking about: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:62468 for the filament feed. Whether that will fit the RoBo or not, I don't know. If there isn't one out there yet, there soon will be because it makes a lot of sense. I hope to join you soon in the land of proud owners, but mine hasn't yet arrived. But it better be in the China batch or I will likely die screaming. Hello to Mr. Turvy and your toddler and your doll.
    Dean
     
    #2 1d1, Oct 13, 2013
  3. 1d1

    1d1 Active Member

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    #3 1d1, Oct 13, 2013
  4. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Leon designed a mount for a direct drive system. Search around for his posts. I think he has a whole thread on it.

    The z-stop thing would be a non-issue if there were spring loaded bed leveling screws. I'm sure Jeff will chime in with how his leveling setup is going :)
     
    #4 Printed Solid, Oct 13, 2013
  5. AutopsyTurvy

    AutopsyTurvy Active Member

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    http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/index.php?threads/ezstruder-x-carriage.938/ ... is this what you're talking about, Printed? It looks interesting, in the I-have-no-idea-what-this-is sort of way. :)

    Kinda tempted to just print out the things that 1d1 linked and twiddle with them so I can see how they work, and if necessary, redesign 'em a bit so they'd fit the Robo.

    While I'm waiting for better Z-stop adjustment, I might see if I can change the current screw for a thumb screw. Even just something I can adjust by hand from the side rather than the top with a screwdriver is the difference in "doable, if a little uncomfortable" and "downright painful and I will be paying for it the next day."
     
    #5 AutopsyTurvy, Oct 14, 2013
  6. 1d1

    1d1 Active Member

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    #6 1d1, Oct 14, 2013
  7. AutopsyTurvy

    AutopsyTurvy Active Member

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    Well that... certainly is more information. :)

    I am unfortunately not nearly technical enough to decipher all of it, just yet. So I will wait until there are kits or something available, I think. Not that I don't want to learn about this stuff more - I do find it interesting - but there's just only so many hours in a day to become proficient in all the things I'm interested in.
     
    #7 AutopsyTurvy, Oct 14, 2013
  8. keraynopoylos

    keraynopoylos New Member

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    Autopsy, regarding the zstop, you could replace the z screw(the one that pushes the ends top switch) with an Allen screw. Then you would be using an Allen wrench to rotate it. Would require much less strength and no wrist twisting. And the longer the wrench the less force it would take to twist it of course.

    Just an idea.
     
    #8 keraynopoylos, Oct 14, 2013
  9. AutopsyTurvy

    AutopsyTurvy Active Member

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    Oh, that's a fantastic idea. I can work an allen wrench all day (and sometimes have, thanks to living in a house of Ikea furniture). Thank you for that - I'm gonna see if I can find a proper screw for it ASAP!
     
    #9 AutopsyTurvy, Oct 14, 2013
  10. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    That's the right thread.
    The one that 1D1 linked to is the same concept as the ezstruder (Emmett's minimalist extruder).

    To get the motor attached, you will need some kind of a mount, which is what Leon was working on.
     
    #10 Printed Solid, Oct 14, 2013
  11. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    Hey guys just chiming in. topsy you have two different options you can go with:
    Leon has modled a new extruder assembly in it he keeps the motor on the extruder chassis and uses something similar to what the others have given you in thingiverse a spring loaded mechanism that allows for quick loading and unloading of the filament. The issue Leon had that I believe he over came is that in the spring loaded concept the filament moves right near the motor in fact the hobbed section is actually a gear on the motor itself this meakes the the current robo design not workable because on the current extruder the motor is geared and the a bolt is used and the filemant ends up bein fed in a location some distance from the motor this all has to change so the filament can be lined up correctly. That was Leons mod. I believe it is complete but I do not know for sure. It does require making new parts the will replace the ones on the current extruder.

    Another method is using a bowden system which removes the motor form the extruder completely and that area is replaced by a simple adapter plate with a tube going into where the filament goes in now. The motor assembly is removed and placed somewhere next to the printer and the same spring fed filament loading device is used the filament is fed through the mottor and then into the tube that is attached to the hot end adpater plate on teh extruder assembly. This has a couple advantages and some disadvantages as well. First since the weight is removed from the extruder assembly it could theroetically be made to move fast and secondly you have control where you put it.so it will be easy to access for you. The down side is that the filament in the tube is not really usable since after the end of the filament you are using pass the spring device it will not be fed so it is essentially wasted. Another thing is that you need to get addition pieces the tube and it fittings. the adapter plate can usually be printed but the fittings and the tube will most likely have to be purchased.

    Both systems are a major rework of the system and you will have to weight the goods and bads of each.

    as far as the zstop adjustment goes I think the allen head screw will work perfectly for you. The bed levelers can make adjustments to get the bed level but can't undo warps and with the ROBO guys reworking the beds as much as they are recently I do not know if the bed levelers will actually be able to work on the latest version whatever that is
     
    #11 tesseract, Oct 14, 2013
  12. Les Hamilton

    Les Hamilton New Member

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    Hi All
    I like the Allen screw idea.

    I have a related question. Has anybody made a mod to add an LED to show when the Z-Stop switch is activated.

    I have very poor hearing and cannot hear when the switch activates when adjusting the Z stop so a visual indicator would be very useful. I tried to trace the wires from the limit switch to the controller to connect there but failed. Does anybody have a schematic?

    jaguarles

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
     
    #12 Les Hamilton, Nov 4, 2013
  13. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    that is actually not a bad idea if I get some time I will try and look into that might be able to tap off the switch leads themselves
     
    #13 tesseract, Nov 4, 2013
  14. Billm

    Billm Member

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    What are the z end stop screw dimensions to order the right Allen head screw.
    Thanks, bill
     
    #14 Billm, Nov 30, 2013
  15. Leon Grossman

    Leon Grossman Active Member

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    The final version of my carriage is here with some amount of instructions:
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:192639

    You're also the perfect person for the Hall effect mod as adjusting the distance is a matter of turning a pot instead of the big screw. You will still need a bed leveling system, regardless of what you do here.

    The thing is, none of these mods are for the faint of heart and, especially with my X-Carriage mod, you risk your printer by disassembling the part that does all of the printing.

    Good luck!
     
    #15 Leon Grossman, Nov 30, 2013
  16. scotta

    scotta Active Member

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    I also do not like the screws for the filament loading. Whilst I will be looking at Leon's EZstruder and the full metal hot end mod. There may be something a bit less difficult to install.
    Ive not done any designs yet but how about change the screw and hinge mechanism to be a lever that can be flipped up to open the assembly, without a screw driver...
    Ideally only changing the hinged part of the feeder?

    Now that I have my printer I will give it some thought
     
    #16 scotta, Dec 1, 2013
  17. Seshan

    Seshan Active Member

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    I'm working on something to make loading filament easier. The first prototype should be done soon :D
     
    #17 Seshan, Dec 1, 2013
  18. Seshan

    Seshan Active Member

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    #18 Seshan, Dec 1, 2013

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