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Community Favorite Better z height adjustment mod

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by CAMBO3D, Jul 5, 2013.

  1. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    I am not trying to come down on you but just want to emphasize that there is a lot of information hereand by searching and finding it you may learn a lot more than you were expecting to. Those discussion link to other aspects of the printer that you may not know about, such as why does the z height matter to good quality prints what is good and what is bad etc.
     
  2. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    thanks. I understand and I thank you for pointing it out to me. if you did not i would not have known. you are helping me be a better forum member for this community :)
     
  3. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    I just want everyone to make the best use of their time trying to learn about 3dprinting
     
    3 people like this.
  4. pclabtech

    pclabtech Active Member

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    Also, this mod has been incorporated into the printers that are being shipped I do believe. Several people that have gotten later printers have the mod in the printer. And yes, adjusting the Z axis is very important to keep your "nuts" from unscrewing because the z-axis switch was set lower than the extruder head hitting your glass... it will "tap out" the nuts that ride on the Z axis bar, making you adjust the z-axis switch upward so your carriage hits the switch before the printhead does.
     
  5. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    does this mean I would not have to preform this mod when the printer I ordered this week because it has it pre installed?

    could someone please link me a very detailed method to levelling your build plate to achieve maximum resolution. (if I were to not use paper but tracing paper would this make the resolution better? sorry I am a noob)
     
  6. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    there is a process I use that achieves very good results used by kera autopsy and many others but that last steps requires printing to happen so until then it would n't do any good to describe it
     
  7. Soupaboy

    Soupaboy Active Member

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    ok, I also was wondering if you print a gaint 1 layer spiral on the print bed would that tell you where the bed is warped? like a spiral covering the whole build platform?
     
  8. Billm

    Billm Member

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    Just got a robo printer last week and have been having many problems getting reliable prints. Ours came with a 4mm .75 x 50mm Allen head screw Z which I changed to hex head bolt. The Allen head required too much down pressure to get to turn. I think that the screw should contact the switch lever at the end but it contacts it close in. It therefore doesn't always come down the same place +\- .001. I have been shooting for .004" but it varies .003 - .005". I can't get it to put down a .1mm first layer at all and some times I can get a .2mm to stick. .3mm always sticks. But my main problem is that I get the head dragging plastic and balling up. I made the dial indicator tool and have the bed level within .001-.002" I was hoping for better than 200 micron prints.
     
  9. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    I think you have run into the problem that some of the latest printers have experienced and that is that switch is put on backwards the open end of that lever should be pointing toward the front of the printer and in your case I believe it's probably pointing to the rear of the printer I think if you simply reversed that switch you'll find it much easier to work with
     
  10. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Billm, also keep in mind, you can set your slic3r profile to lay down a nice fat .300mm first layer for good adhesion, but then print the rest of the model at a higher resolution.
     

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