Solved Bubbling Issue

I have a bubbling issue when I print large flat objects. If i print smaller objects I don't seem to have this problem... Anyone know what might be going on?

• Printer: Robo 3D R1 Plus
  
• Printing black pla from robo.
• Hot end: 210
• Bed: 50
• Bottom layer speed: 20mm/s
• Initial layer thickness: .4
• Initial layer line width: 100%

Need any other info ask.

Thanks in an advance,

 

are these bubbles solid or hollow?
any strange noises coming from the z axis?
has this all ways happen in large prints or is it more recent?
how does the first layer look when it prints?

a quick guess would be exturder is pushing to much filament or there might be something wrong that the z axis is not raising up correctly or both.

 

1.The bubbles are hollow watching it it looks like the hot head is pushing the layer up as its printing besides it.

2.No strange noises just got the printer 3 days ago.

3.It's more recent I had it printing perfect then I switched to abs and changed setting and had as printing great. Now I switched back to play and this started happening. If i print a little cube it's fine just only in big prints.

4.This is the first layer printing.

5.That's the only thing I haven't done is check the extruder calibration. Any ideas on how to mark the filament that's black that won't effect the results (cutting slits in the filament.)

Thanks,

 

the mark would be hard you could score it to take the gloss off, but there is a easier way.
instead of marking it measure 150mm out from whats in it already and cut it, extrude 100mm and measure whats left over to do your calculation. so it would be 150mm - (what you measure) i.e. if you measure 32mm left over then 150-32=118 118 is what it actually did in this example and one part of three numbers (100 is another and the current E steps/mm is the other) that you would use to calculate the steps per mm needed to correct it.

after the correction has been made and saved you would heat the hotend, pull the remainder out and feed the spool filament in, extrude till it comes out the nozzle and repeat the above to verify the change.

 

I will try that tomorrow and let you know the results. Any suggestions on a good tutorial on setting the steps per mm?

Thanks,

Sent from my Zenfone 2 using Tapatalk

 

So I've done 3 tests in a row and here are my conclusions.

Started with 150mm of filament then I extruded 100mm(G1 E100 F300) and I had 65 left over. So if i understand correctly I take 150-65(left over)=85 extruted. Take 100-85(extruded)=15mm(short)

Does that sound right?...

If I send it an M503 it says my current step per unit is E723.38 I need to adjust that and add 15 to account for the 15 im short? Hope I explained clearly enough.

Thanks,

 

Ok thank you a lot that really helped i was confused on how to calculate it. I got it dialed into 810.00 steps per mm with extruding 99.8mm of filament. I'm going to run a test print now and see how it works I will let you know how it turns out.

Thanks,

 

the default has a 2 decimal place integer in it, why not use as you call it "fractional steps"?

 

Ok so I did a test print and only let it print the first layer and here is the results.


I looks like it only does it when its moving from bottom left of this image to the top right of it on the left piece.


And a up close of that piece.



And a view from the bottoms up. (Like my beer was while this was printing =)

Also could this be a problem from the cork on the bottom of my bed not trapping the heat and transferring it to the glass I'll attach pics down below of what I'm talking about.



Thanks again for all your help. I'm new to 3D printing so I'm at a loss so i really appreciate it.

Thanks,
Kyler Williams

 

is that ABS or PLA?
what are your temps for the bed and hotend set at?

 

This is Black Forest PLA from Robo directly printed at 210c with bed at 50C.

Thanks,

 

try the bed at 54 and the hotend around 195, i've had good luck with those setting for PLA, the bed above 53 and a glue stick help me with the edges lifting.

your z height and or extruder still may be off a bit as well. i am noticing the separation of the lines for the perimeter.

 

What are you using for your slicer?

 

good question, I am using MatterControl as the printer is used by some scouts, so what ever it comes with by default. when i first got it from the kickstarter i was using slic3r & repetier host but for some of the youth it confused them more and i would have to change settings back to fix things all the time.

after some looking around the pc from a remote VNC it uses MatterSlice under setting and control>options> slice engine

 

ok, now it makes a little more sense, so the 2 decimal places number needs to be divided by .0625 (1/16) evenly for the stepper to actually make the microstep (baby stepping) move right? i.e. 1.1875 / .0625 = 19
so if that is the case and the firmware only allows 2 decimal places that would mean, if the above is true, that it could only do every 4th one to maintain only 2 decimal places wouldn't it? i.e. .0625 * 4 =.25, .0625*8=.5, .0625*12=.75... or is there something else i am missing

 

I agree with whereswaldo. It makes so simple being whole numbers. I just wish I could figure out why I keep bubbling. Would it help if I uploaded the gcode for you to look at? I'm just at a loss...

Thanks,

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