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Solved Bubbling Issue

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Kyler Williams, Sep 14, 2015.

  1. Kyler Williams

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    Could this also be related to bed temp issues? I'm thinking that cork that's hanging off the bottom of my bed could be playing a roll since where it's peeling up is close to where the cork is falling.

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  2. William Muraski

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    so the R1+plus has a removable bed that can't be removed because the cable for it detaches under the printer instead of at the bed?
     
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  3. Kyler Williams

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    Yeah! Pretty crazy huh? Here are some pics of the bottom of the bed and also the cork falling off.

    [​IMG]
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    [​IMG]
     
  4. William Muraski

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    it shouldn't be the cork creating a hot/cold spot, but does it interfere with the y axis at all by dragging on it?
    and ya, the bed not detaching from the cable at the bed to me is a fail for no plug at the bed and they still are using the wrong wire again as it looks like they doubled up on a few connection to support the current. is it correct no, but it will work. curious on how many strands are in a single wire itself, it should be minimum 19 strands for the application
     
  5. Kyler Williams

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    It doesn't interfere but it does drag on the bolt on the y-axis. I noticed when I pulled it apart and looked at the connection they split the wires and wired half as negative and half as positive. I'll pull it apart when I get home from work and get more pics of it. Also I still need to do more testing I didn't get the chance today to fire it up.

    Thanks

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    #45 Kyler Williams, Sep 16, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2015
  6. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    If it's not dragging it shouldn't cause any issues. It will still trap heat, just slightly less effectively than if it was bonded to the heater
     
  7. Kyler Williams

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    It never ends! I've got a new problem now... When its auto leveling the Y axis is trying to move to far its causes it to pop. This developed while I'm trying to get my Z offset fixed.



    Further investigation i found the blocks the Y rods pass though are cracked as seen below.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Kyler Williams

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    FINALLY!!! I fixed the bubbling issue and you all are probably going to hate me for this... But it was the hair spray all along not letting it stick i switched back to the trusty ol elmers glue that came with the printer and now its printing smoother than a baby's bottom. Although I completely wiped cura and reinstall it and that didn't fix I tried printing on straight glass and that didn't fix that's when i finally went back to the stick glue.

    [​IMG]

    This is the hair spray I was using.
    [​IMG]

    Although I do still have a problem with the Y axis... I contacted support about the cracked blocks hoping they will send new ones unless you guys have any ideas why its trying to go past the end stop.

    Thank you guys for all your help and I feel so dumb that it was something so simple. I appreciate everything you guys suggested and your dedication. Happy Printing!

    Thanks,
     
  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    All four of mine cracked, I didn't bother with replacements, just printed new one.
     
  10. Kyler Williams

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    Do you still have the file for them? Or do you remember where you got them?

    Thanks

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  11. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Regarding hair spray, everyone that uses it swears by AquaNet because it has the actual bonding chemicals in it that work for 3d printing (some other hairsprays don't).

    As for the cork bed, I ended up covering the cork with HVAC tape like this:

    [​IMG]
     
  12. Kyler Williams

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    I will have to grab a can of that and give it a try. I also thought about covering mine but I was worried it would over heat? Wonder why they wouldn't do that from the factory.

    Thanks

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  13. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Overheating is basically a non-issue as long as your thermistor functions.

    And they don't do it from the factory because that would take a little bit of extra tape and effort.
     
  14. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    Yep I tried a can of some expensive ass hair spray my wife had. It sucked. Parts didn't stick to it at all. Once I bought the Aquanet parts stick amazing. It's only like $2-$3 for a big can that will last about 2 or 3 months.
     
  15. Kyler Williams

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    Lol that's always the problem. =)
    Thanks I will have to grab a can and try it.

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  16. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Here, the .zip also has STEP files if you want to import and modify them. They are nearly identical top and bottom pieces, so just load bottom piece once and print four. These are solid, not like the ones from Robo with reliefs molded in.

    FYI, I forgot the top pieces have a recess for the M4 Socket head cap screw so they sit flush with the tops.
     

    Attached Files:

    #56 WheresWaldo, Sep 18, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2015
    Sonny's Robo3D likes this.
  17. Sonny's Robo3D

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    Reading this thread I decided to look at my blocks and what do you know? they all are cracked. Doesn't look like it's affecting performance for me but gonna print out those right now and replace. Don't want an issue to arise mid-print. Thanks for those Waldo!
     
  18. Kyler Williams

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    Now I just gotta figure out what's wrong with my bed when it's doing its self leveling. Do I need to make a new thread for it?

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  19. Kyler Williams

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    Thanks again! Your a life saver.

    Sent from my Zenfone 2 using Tapatalk
     
  20. William Muraski

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    the way your y axis acted was like it has the wrong bed size entered, check the size manually and check to make sure the y axis home switch doesn't have an obstruction between it and the front cross member.
     

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