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Solved Bubbling up

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Jella_joe, Jul 13, 2016.

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  1. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    Well I only used Matter Control for about a week before switching to S3D, so I am not sure anymore. Someone that uses Matter Control should be able to chime in.

    I decided to just download it quick. Go to View->Terminal. A window should pop-up where you can enter the M503 once the printer is connected via USB.
     
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  2. Jella_joe

    Jella_joe Member

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    Sorry I needed a break from this. So frustrated! lol I bought Aqua net extra super hold to replace the stick glue that came with the printer. I have printed the calibration cube twice and it looks great! Thanks for the tip to get to the terminal.
     

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  3. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    Not to get ahead or confuse you, but you still have the factory Extruder Steps/mm (E723.38), so you may want to look into calibrating your extruder. That number is basically a "highly educated guess"!



    If you edit your firmware, I would recommend lowering the Acceleration Settings as well.





    After looking at the M503 print out, you have the 8mm threaded rods firmware installed. Not sure if its the RoBo3DR1V3 or the RoBo3DR1AUTOV5 version. I do not even know if this is the correct firmware for your printer?

    You need to count the threads within 1 inch. Or if you have 2 of the right size nuts (5/16" or 8mm), you could try to screw them on and see which one works.

    If appears the RoBo3DR1V3 is actually just an updated version of RoBo3DR1AUTOV5, not really sure how their versions work?

    One of the 2 circled in the image, are currently uploaded though. I know that much!
     

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  4. Jella_joe

    Jella_joe Member

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    I watched the first video and that did need to be adjusted. Thanks! every 100 mm command only pushed 85 mm of filament.

    When I measure z and then move 30 mm z I measure again and get a 30 mm displacement. That wouldn't be possible if I had the wrong firmware right?

    I printed the calibration cube. It's almost 7 mm instead of 10 mm x and y are good. I am too tired to watch the other video right now. I will do that later. Thanks for your input.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Once you have the correct version you will still need to fine tune it as the video shows.
     
  7. Jella_joe

    Jella_joe Member

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    I keep counting about 20~21 threads per inch. So if I understand right. I need the old version firmware for the thread.
     
  8. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    20 per inch is 8mm threaded rods. So you needed the V3 firmware. One of the improvement with that version was to correct the z steps and "should" fix the 7mm instead of 10mm cube height you are seeing.
     
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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is confusing because they altered the printer without altering the model name. :)
    There are two flavors of BETA, at least two flavors of R1 and the R1+ only has one version.
     
  10. Jella_joe

    Jella_joe Member

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    Ok I have been going through the video. The highlighted value in the attachment is the only one that needs to be updated in order to fix the printing issue right? In theory.
     

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  11. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    That will only adjust the Extruder Steps, which does need to be changed. If you tried extruding 100mm and only extruded 85mm, then you need to increase that value you have highlighted in the picture. The video shows the formula to get your Extruder Steps/mm.

    You may want to run the calibration a couple times to make sure you receive 85mm every time.

    (723.38*100)/85=851.04

    Make sure you have the V3 firmware that @danzca6 confirmed. The one circled in the screenshot since you do not have the Leadscrew Upgrade installed.
     

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  12. Jella_joe

    Jella_joe Member

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    Ok people! I put the settings on high quality coarse and it prints beautifully! I have some gaps and stuff but I am at the right height! the nozzle is .4 so .2 mm layer height doesn't work right? So if I want better resolutions/quality I need to have a smaller nozzle right? Can I just buy one of those? Is it worth it? Will quality improve or am I barking up the wrong tree and there are yet more settings that I need to fix. I think I may not be pushing enough filament yet. Thanks for putting up with me and my questions!
     

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  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    0.2 is fine for a 0.4 nozzle. If you want better results with smaller layers heights you might want to consider a smaller nozzle (and slower print speeds to match)
     
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  14. Jella_joe

    Jella_joe Member

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    What size and speed do you recommend?
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Uhhh ... totally depends on your model and your goals :)
    Smaller layers are better/finer resolution and detail, but with a linear decrease in speed.

    There is a minimum nozzle width / layer height ratio because if it is much less than 1.5 you aren't squashing the round filament into ovals, so you have cylinders touching tangentially forming only weak bonds.

    For a given nozzle and plastic there is:
    • a maximum layer height (because the plastic has to be stretched lengthwise, not compressed).
    • a minimum width (because there is a limit to how much you can stretch it before it snaps).
    • a maximum width equal to the size of the flat tip of the nozzle.

    You can change height and width within these constraints.
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you do not decrease the overall print speed with the increase in resolution you will not gain much detail (since it will be sloppier). If you print (normal) 0.2 mm layer height at 3000* mm/min then 0.1 should be at 1500 mm/min



    *numbers are pulled out of the air as examples, not recommendations...
     
  17. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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  18. Ryan TeGantvoort

    Ryan TeGantvoort Active Member

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    Anyone else notice the X end stop on the Carriage? Is this how the first Robo's were made?

    You may want to better secure/run your Extruder Wires as well, look like they are almost touching the part.
     
  19. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Yes, that is how some are made. Mine is just like that.
     
  20. Jella_joe

    Jella_joe Member

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    ok. So this is what I am understanding. In order to have better prints with the current nozzle I might need to slow it down. Currently all my settings are 60 mm/second. That could be why I can't print finer with my current nozzle. Also, I noticed that deformities are being created by the previous layer being too hot to print on. Almost like mushrooming. I started manually pausing and moving in the positive Z so the print can cool a sec. That seems to be working. How do I get it to pause between layers if it's small a space? Slowing down the printer should help with cooling too though right? Wouldn't that help be more accurate on Z too?
     
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