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Solved Build Plate Issues (No heat)

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by didionj, May 3, 2017.

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  1. didionj

    didionj New Member

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    Hey guys,
    I've been a happy Robo R1+ user for over a year now and this machine has been extremely reliable for me. Last month I noticed the cork insulation sagging on the bottom of the build plate, and with a quick trip to forums fixed that with duct tape. A couple weeks later I started preheating my printer, only to find that the bed wasn't heating. The mattercontrol software indicated it was attempting to preheat, but it was definitely not getting any warmer. I opened the bottom crudely reseated the wires, which worked fine for another week until today. Same issue, doesn't heat the build plate.
    It does respond to changing temperature on the build surface, so it leads me to believe the temperature controlling unit is okay.
    I have unplugged the wires for the heated bed, inspected them for scorches or visual signs of failure and plugged them back in, this did not fix the issue.
    Looking through the forums, I know I'm not the first with a heated build plate issue, most seem to have the same remedy of the Q3 board (if I recall correctly). Before I order this I just want to make sure it is the issue and how I could ensure it is the point of failure.
     
  2. didionj

    didionj New Member

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    After more troubleshooting and a trip to youtube, I reopened the printer more confidently and I found the issue. The plug that connects the power supply to the processor board was charred. The pin that was effected was labeled 11amp. (I can post pictures if you need a more visual indication)
    My question now becomes does the board need replaced or just the plug between the two? I've started looking for sources for both and would appreciate any help with that. ( I know this hasn't been posted on the forums yet, but it may eventually).
     
  3. didionj

    didionj New Member

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    Last update, figured out the board was the RAMPS 1.4 shield, and just purchased a replacement one. I suppose it's kind of silly that I even posted this issue on the forums but maybe others will learn from this, so I figured I'd answer my own question. I'll know for sure that it's the answer after I plug everything in and start printing again, but I'm pretty confident this will work. More on that when it arrives.
     
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hi There. Yes replace the ramps board and that connector.

    The R1+ uses a board that is different from a generic ramps board. You'll need to modify the wiring and connections a bit but there is a sticky thread that walks you through it
     
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  5. didionj

    didionj New Member

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    Awesome, I'll look for that thread. Hopefully it isn't that complicated I was summing this up to be a plug and play job.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  7. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    its easy enough. Just takes a little time. No soldering, just cutting and stripping some wires. I did it :D lol
     
  8. didionj

    didionj New Member

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    Well cutting and stripping wires is something I can do. I can solder too but I've never tried soldering to a circuit board. Also I notice this is a somewhat common occurance, would it be worth the time to upgrade the plugs to something that can handle higher currents? Or add a fuse? I know its not very expensive to fix but if I can save time fixing this in the future I figured I'd put the problem to rest now.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It is fused. At 11amps
    The issue is that the connections are often loose and then high resistance and ... smoke.
     
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  10. didionj

    didionj New Member

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    Okay so the connection is fused so adding one is pointless. The adding a high current plug won't prolong it from occurring again either.
    Good to know before wasting time and resources.
     
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  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It should never need more than 11 amps unless something is awry :)

    The problem is that sometimes the heater pads go whack and it pulls more than 11 amps and sometimes the connections are bogus and it pulls more than 11 amps -- invariably when that happens over a long-haul the MOSFET that drives that channel just dies :)

    If your connector is smoked then you are pretty sure it was just a high resistance (and high heat) connection.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The only caution I will add is that lately I have found buying RAMPS boards can be a crap shoot. I have had a high rate of bad ones cross my desk. 2 out of 4 in the last batch. Buy more than one...
     
  13. didionj

    didionj New Member

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    Well I wish I read this earlier. Wired the ramps according to the novice guide and I have the extruder fan working, but that's it. No heat detection, no heat, and no motor response. Did I over look a step?
    Also I may have presses the little reset button on the board. Regardless after first getting those elements to work, my computer now can't communicate with the printer at all.
    I'll post a picture and a diagram of my wiring in a bit so hopefully you can maybe see if I've done anything glaringly wrong.
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The reset button only resets/reboots the arduino. No harm, no foul although if you did that while printing your print would be corrupted :)
     
  15. didionj

    didionj New Member

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    Here's what I've got wired up in summary. The leds and bottom fan are not in the circuit yet because I'd rather not burn them out yet. I also used jumpers in the same area the video showed.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. didionj

    didionj New Member

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    See anything glaringly wrong? I appreciate your input :)
     
  17. Doug Meek

    Doug Meek Member

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    Incase you or anyone else needs connectors in the future....the parts for the connectors are:
    [​IMG] A98223-ND
    796634-2 A98223-ND 796634-2 TERM BLOCK PLUG 2POS STR 5.08MM $1.64 EA.
    [​IMG] A98237-ND
    796638-4 A98237-ND 796638-4 TERM BLOCK HDR 4POS 90DEG 5.08MM $1.27 EA
    [​IMG] A98232-ND
    796636-4 A98232-ND 796636-4 TERM BLOCK HDR 4POS VERT 5.08MM $1.41 EA
    [​IMG] A98225-ND
    796634-4 A98225-ND 796634-4 TERM BLOCK PLUG 4POS STR 5.08MM $2.91 EA

    These are all DigiKey part numbers...
     
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  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Your limit switches have to be on the correct pins or that will be a problem.

    RAMPS Wiring Robo.gif
     
  19. didionj

    didionj New Member

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    Thanks I'm going to move some wires around and get back after I test it again.
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Dang it. That almost needs to be in its own thread and that thread a sticky :)
     
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