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Solved Can't complete a print (PLA)

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Byron Portilla, Aug 24, 2014.

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  1. Byron Portilla

    Byron Portilla New Member

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    Sorry for the bad camera phone pics.

    Couple questions:

    #1: I have been printing on a E3d-V6 for a couple weeks now and for the most part its been ok, but as of 3 days ago I am no longer able to complete a print. I was printing a battery dispenser and about 2 hours in, the printer got stuck on a booger, I'm guessing. The print looked great until that point. So I started over and it didn't get stuck, but close to the same point it stopped extruding.

    I have since used the canola oil seasoning and switched back to the sample PLA that I seemed to be doing well with before. But as in the attached picture photo 2.JPG this was the best I could do, some attempts wouldnt even extrude the first layer after the perimeter ring was printed.

    I tried ABS but every time i try the abs breaks in the hobbed bolt.

    I pulled off the heatsink from the E3d and i see no signs of clogs in the heatsink or the entry of the threaded connector piece to the heat block. (I did the frist time I tried the e3d because i didnt have the heatsink fan on AND i didnt have the PTFE collar and tube.. DOH!) Could this have ruined my e3d? I cleaned it out pretty well and put it back and and got a bunk of pretty good prints. Way more consistent than the stock hot end up until now.

    One thing I noticed was even though I ordered .4mm nozzle, visibly the orifice looks smaller than the stock .4mm I assumed it was right and installed it as it doesn't have any markings. I will order more nozzles today to be sure

    I wanted to go bowden but cant figure out what else I need to make that happen.

    #2: Should I go back to the stock hot end? I only printed about 4 things with it and this is how it looked when I removed it. photo 1.JPG What would cause the PLA to come out in that area?


    OH! one other thing, the magnet came off on the top of the bed. there is a gap between it and the bed. The corners seem to be resting flat on the pads on the bed tray. How can I fix this?
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Before you get too flustered:

    1) clean the E3D nozzle
    2) Check that the fan is working on the hotend (otherwise heat creep will cause your filament to stick/jam in the transition zone)
    3) add an oiler (even a temporary one)

    Just to make sure one of these doesn't sort you out.
     
  3. Byron Portilla

    Byron Portilla New Member

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    Sorry for the delay in update. Fan is working on the hotend heatsink. After I cleaned out the nozzle with a high E guitar string, it seems to be working well with the Robo test PLA. I have also been able to print small parts with MG Chemicals? ABS. Larger prints in ABS warp as I didn't do a slurry.

    In short, I think the Black Shaxon PLA and ABS from frys is just JUNK and doesn't work well with my setup. What brand filament should I look for?

    Also any recommendation on what to use to reglue the magnet to the bed?

    Thanks for you help.
     
  4. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    "MG Chemicals"? That's a freeze spray and duster brand. What do you mean?

    Have you tried Aquanet or equivalent hairspray for ABS? Spray on a cold bed, heat to dry. Print ABS with the bed around 110C.

    There are some posts on glueing those magnets back on.
     
  5. Byron Portilla

    Byron Portilla New Member

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    I bought a MG Chemicals branded spool of ABS @ 19.99 for .5KG. Using more aquanet seemed to help the first layer curling. Seems to print better than the Shaxon stuff, but I am getting layer separation on larger prints. I need to figure out how to fix that... Of to search.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Can be part and parcel of using ABS without a heated chamber. Slow it down, run it hot. Those are your best approaches.
     
  7. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    Also I suggest you do a temperature test for each brand and perhaps color. You can edit the gcode to change the temp 5C every 10mm and print a tall block. Then take some pliers to it to see what layers stick together best. Somthing like this http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:217523 . I would start a lower though and not bother with 240C.
     
    #7 SteveC, Sep 2, 2014
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  8. SteveC

    SteveC Well-Known Member

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    Sorry I was thinking it was some sort of MG Chemicals adhesiveo_O.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    +10E6

    [I used to say that a lot, but I am glad someone else has said it :)]

    Potentially every spool can have a different sweet spot (best temperature). I test them periodically (center the head, raise it 20 mm and do some test extrusions). For PLA it should extrude and hang down (not curl up and stick to the nozzle). If you start at a high temp and work down, the first point it does that is the FLOOR temp. I start there.[/QUOTE]
     
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