Can't find home

I've got a real problem. I had to replace my circuit board. I followed the video and was careful to match locations of connectors, moving one at a time. However, I did loose track of the end stop pin connections.

I removed both the plastic harness covers to expose all the wires. I followed the end stop connectors to be sure I had the X,Y, and Z end stops labeled correctly.


Turned on Repetier. Hit home button and the print head moved AWAY from the home spot. Moved to the X right instead of left. The print bed also moved in the opposite direction. But when I went to Repetier and tried to move the 3 axis with the proper arrows, I could only get the bed to move in one direction only. Z only up, X, only right,Y only back.

What the heck did I do?. I have triple checked the video with my connections.
I have the Z connectors and X connector with the blue wire to the right and the Y connectors with black to the left as indicated on the video.

I'm really stumped.
Bed heats, extruder heats, so all is well with that.

Any help?

Mark

 

No -I assume you mean firmware on the robo3d?
Wasn't aware there was any.
On initial setup, just opened and setup Repetier .

I didn't press to reset on the controller, I plan to do that as well
-mark

 

Thank you
-mark

 

downloaded firmware, but I see no instructions on how to get it the control board. sorry, but I don't know about these things. how do I send it over? run "config" or something?
-Mark

 

Hi Mark. In order to build the firmware and upload it to the Robo 3D you need to grab a few things.

First, grab the Arduino software. The Robo 3D is built upon a Taurino board which is an Arduino Mega 2560 compatible board. Grab the latest non-beta version at

http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software

Currently I think that is 1.0.5. Install it.

You of course will need the Robo 3D firmware. You can grab it from the link that mark posted. You want to unzip this.

From a hardware standpoint, you have all you need since you just need a USB connection to the Robo 3D that you already have.

Start the Arduino software and then load the file Marlin_LCD.ino that is in the Marlin_LCD directory where you unzip'd the firmware. You should have a screen that looks similar to this.



It won't be exactly the same. Now I'm on a Mac but the Windows version should be similar if you're on Windows.

You want to target the build specifically for the Mega 2560. You do this by going to the menu "Tools" then "Board" then selecting "Arduino Mega 2560 or Arduino ADK".

Next you want to select the serial port your Robo 3D is on. Go to "Tools" then "Serial Port" then select the serial port where your Robo 3D is connected.

Now make sure everything builds correctly. In the Marlin_LCD Window that I posted above, at the top, far left, is a check mark. Click that. This is the verify button and you should see the words "Verify" show up at the top.



Once you start this, if you look below at the status window it should say "Compiling sketch"



And eventually it'll say "Done compiling" (hopefully)



If you're at this point we should be good. Plug in your Robo 3D (if you haven't done it) and click on the right facing arrow that is next to the check mark. This is the upload button and will upload the compiled firmware to your Robo 3D.

Since I don't want to reflash my Robo 3D I don't have screen shots of this but if it doesn't work, first try to powercycle the Robo 3D by unplugging the power cord AND the USB cable. The Taurino gets power primarily from the USB cable. Then plug in the USB cable again and attempt the upload again.

 

Does everyone need to do this when they get their printer or is installing the Slic3r and reptillier enough on Windows vista?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Thank you -I downloaded the firmware. However, the unit still couldn't find home. So I reset it manually. I think it works, I haven't printed anything yet, but at least it goes to home. Very busy at work.

-mark

 

Is this instructions for installing a LCD?

So much info it's getting complicated. I just like to know if the above installation instructions is for LCD and is not necessary if not going that route?

 

Peter, if you're not running the latest firmware, before you install a RepRap Discount LCD (regular or XXL) or a ViKi LCD you need to upgrade your firmware. If you are installing a ViKi you also will need to make modifications to the firmware first. However, the RepRap Discount LCD (regular or XXL) will work out of the box using the new firmware.

Though not necessary if you do not have an LCD it is a good idea to move to the latest firmware since there could be bug fixes contained within.

 

Thanks for all your help everyone. The issue, I'm embarrassed to say, turned out to be a broken endstop wire.
I would have never found it if I didn't unravel the protective coil around the wire bundle and not painstaking check every inch of all the wiring.

Can tell you it was all worth the effort to learn all the things everyone talked about.

Really appreciate everyone's help

Thanks, mark

 

On this note, its is worth being very diligent when working on the wiring of the Robo3Ds, I went to re wire a power cable in to the PSU (long story short I lost my kettle lead) and if i had followed the wiring done by who ever built it the earth wire would have been the L and the Live was going in to the N so i back checked up to the kettle connector and obviously it was fine they all went to the correct place but the colors were wrong...

guess my one wasn't made in the US shop!

if they have made errors like this i think its worth noting if your chaining something double check!

 

It's like that on mine, too. I think the Robo has standardized on wrong.