Connection Interrupted

Let's tackle the issues one at a time:

...the printer longer knows its name... <- You will need to log in via SSH and run the utility called raspi-config. You simply change the hostname to match the serial number on the back of the printer. The hostname option is under the "network" menu.

...The sensor goes too far back and leaves the build plate so the build plate continues to go up into the extruder....

1) change the hostname via SSH and raspi-config. Reboot the printer after making this change.

2) via a web browser, log into Octoprint using the network address of <hostname>.local Once you get the Octoprint screen, log into Octoprint. Default is pi & raspberry. Click on the Settings in the main menu and highlight the Serial Connection in the list. By default, the speed is set to "Auto". Change it to 115200 via the drop down menu.

3) look for a "plugin" called Firmware Updater. If it is missing from the PLUGINS menu, You will need to install it via the Plugin Manager.

4) download the latest Robo Marlin firmware from here: https://github.com/Robo3D/Marlin/releases/tag/Marlin_1.1.6_RoboVersion_1.2.6
You are looking for the file called:
Marlin_1.1.6_RoboVersion_1.2.6_R2.hex

In the Octoprint plugin Firmware Updater, upload the Marlin_1.1.6_RoboVersion_1.2.6_R2.hex file
Once the latest firmware is loaded on the main controller board, reboot the printer. Once the printer is ready, try homing the system ( Printer -> Motor -> Home button )

One caveat - you will need to re-level the print bed and run the PID wizard afterwards. Procedures can be found at the beginning of this Troubleshooting forum.

Let us know how things stand afterward.

 

Ok. Go to the front panel (Utilities -> Network -> Network Status ) and copy down the IP address of your R2 printer. In your web browser, type in:

http://<IP address> and see if your web browser can connect to Octoprint.

The web browser might complain about the connection being unsecured. Ignore the warning.

 

There is another way.
You need to open it up and connect a PC to the controller card. The Pi is currently connected so you would need to disconnect it and then connect a PC. Power everything up and use the Arduino IDE to flash the firmware from the source. While we can help you do that, it is not likely going to help the problem with the "connection interrupted"

When the R2 printer is reporting the connection interrupted it is often a failure of the pogo pins that deliver power to the heated bed. That tends to raise that error when it happens. I can't give you a firm explanation for WHY it does that (I don't have an R2 and the C2 doesn't have bed heaters).

Partsbuilt.com has the replacement for that part BUT -- I can't tell you all the details for how to swap it (@WheresWaldo or @Geof might can assist there) since I don't have one to look at.

https://www.partsbuilt.com/robo-r2-pogo-adapter-print-bed

 

You bring up a good point. I recently experienced a similar problem. In my case, it was the firmware being corrupted. I was asking to make sure that @studiver13 had access to the Octoprint server. ( just in case it was a firmware issue ).

Speaking of which, @studiver13 , what version of print bed does your R2 printer have? Is it Version 1 or Version 2?

 

Are you referring to this part as having "rusty" connections?
https://www.partsbuilt.com/r2-bed-cable-robo/

If you are referring to the print bed itself, send an email to partsbuilt ( via their website ) and ask if they can procure the version 2, heated print bed. They cannot stock a part if they don't know that a part is needed.

One other item. Partsbuilt recommends that the print bed temperature to not exceed 60 C. Based on my experience with various filaments, I concur with their recommendation.

 

Version 1 had the pins, version 2 did not. They released an upgrade for v1 to remove the pogo pins.
If you have a v1 and no upgrades, you have the pogo pins ...
The upgrade essentially removed the pins (and perhaps the ability to disconnect the bed -- not clear to me).

 

If he gets a new Version 2 bed and associated cable, he should be able to disconnect the print bed from the printer.

 

OK, good -- they just changed the connection as opposed to eliminating it
That was never clear to me.

 

Cable doesn't change nor is an adapter needed, you just plug the cable directly into the socket on the bed (not into the Pogo-Pin board like the original).

 

Cool, that is good information to have
It was never clear to me what the solution was that they were implementing other than it removed the pogo pins from the equation.

 

You could try cleaning the pins with Alcohol and a toothbrush.

 

Which firmware did you use?

 

Try resetting the firmware parameters with M502 ( load factory defaults ) followed by M500 ( write to memory ). Doing these commands will flush out potentially bad parameters in the firmware. Log into Octoprint and use the Printer Terminal window.

Then try the Z Offset wizard again.