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Converting C2 into the FT-5

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by colton81, Jun 5, 2017.

  1. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Well its got to be a bad stepper driver i switched the pin configuration for the x axis and the E0 and it worked perfect but still wouldnt work in the E0


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  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sadly that means a total board swap on the C2 controller.
     
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  3. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Yea which sucks i contacted robo but still havent heard back from them. Have a feeling its going to be like pulling teeth to try to get a new board from them
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Probably not stocked with spares yet.
     
  5. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Well i started messing around with the mainboard not sure what I did but I put everything back together on the printer after taking it off. Installed the standard marlin software back on it and out of no where it started working again. Idk what happened but now its running like there was never an issue. I went back and changed the marlin code to fit the FT5 and everything is working, the only thing on the extruder is its running backwards which I believe I just need to swap the stepper motor cable and ill be good to go.


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  6. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    I still need to connect the Heated bed which is the stock FT5 bed that says its rated for 12v which i have a 24v supply. Ive seen some people state they have ran them on 24v with no issues but not sure if it will work. I do have an external trigorilla mosfet that is rated up to 24v 30A not sure if if the bed though will be fine using 24V


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  7. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Also I have noticed that with the 24v power supply the heater heats up alot quicker honestly it seems about twice as fast to get to 200°


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  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, if the heater is rated at 24v it will heat at least twice as fast than at 12v. It will heat twice as fast even it is is only rated at 12v it will just likely fail at some point (and by fail I mean that fire is an option).
     
  9. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Well that makes since. I bought a 24v heater core and replaced it just to be on the safe side.

    Did my first test print last night but had some issues. One is when i cancel a print instead of it lowering the bed and then moving the nozzle out of the way it just starts moving the nozzle which causes it to drag against the bed. Im not sure if this is gcode related.

    Second is i had active cooling on but i had to manually start the fans from octoprint and then at every layer change they would slow down and i would have to click it again to ramp the fans back up. In cura it was set for 100% for cooling

    And the last issue is setting the Z offset it wouldnt allow me to get close enough to the nozzle to print the first layer i had to go into the firmware and change the #define max_software_endstops true and change it to false.






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  10. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    So just an update everything seems to be working good now. I had to change some settings in the marlin firmware to get it properly working. Im in the process of installing my adafruit 5" hdmi touchscreen. And will in the next month be adding a second hotend to it as well. But as far as i can tell it prints as good as the C2 did in the original frame there are slight issues on the corners of my prints but i believe thats from the sliders not moving smooth enough which is an easy fix.


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  11. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Ive installed the R2 firmware and software and finally got most of it working but i cant do Z offset because it wants the bed to be connected. Anyone happen to know a way to by pass the bed? Ive disabled it in marlin and turned it off in octoprint but im guessing its the software on the pi that is still looking for the bed connections


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  12. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Figured it out had to go into the RoboLCD file in terminal and edit the wizard.py file to change it to C2 so it doesnt look for the bed. Got everything working now and printing a benchy to see how it looks.

    By the way so far the R2 marlin firmware and software is working on the C2 board with 24v psu and so far its looking good


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  13. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Got this bad boy up and running had to "rig" some of the C2 bed tape on it for now until i get the glass cut for it.

    [​IMG][​IMG]


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  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    congrats! Glad to see it rollin!
     
  15. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Thanks!

    Just some info, looks like the C2 firmware isnt exactly the same that was originally on mine some of it i had to change to get it work. I ended up switching to the R2 and im not sure what the original that is shipped with the R2 is but thats what im running now and i also had to change some stuff around in the firmware to get it to work. Im assuming its just a general firmware for both of the Robo's and isn't completely configured for them. But i could be wrong.


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  16. OutsourcedGuru

    OutsourcedGuru Active Member

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    Just noting for others, if you edit wizard.py in a terminal prompt you have to delete wizard.pyc so that it'll be recompiled on reboot.

    You got a beast of a printer, btw. Love it.
     

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