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Cura settings, any idea?

Discussion in 'Software' started by Francesco, Oct 25, 2013.

  1. Francesco

    Francesco New Member

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    Hi guys!

    First of all thanks a lot to all of you, I saw some threads really interesting, and helpful.

    Few weeks ago were shared some good tips and settings about KISSlicer, at the same time there was a "discussion/comparison" with Cura, so i got a bit curios and I've tried both programs to get a personal idea.
    I'm still struggling with the parameters and I was now trying to figure out how to set all of them for Cura, so, I wanted to ask if anybody is using that slicer or ever tried it with the robo 3D, if yes i would ask which kind of parameters has setted

    Thanks in advance,
    Frenky
     
  2. AutopsyTurvy

    AutopsyTurvy Active Member

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    I've used Cura with the Robo. It works... okay, not great as it's kind of way over-simplified. But it does do a good job slicing things fairly quickly, and things that fail in Repetier/Slic3r.

    Here's my settings I've been using in it, for PLA:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Francesco

    Francesco New Member

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    Thanks so much!
    I'm gonna try them.
     
  4. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    One thing to note cura does a great job at slicing but sometimes the speeds it uses are on the fast side for the robo and can create other issues that could be difficult to track down the cause so try and keep the printing speeds on the slower side and you may avoid some of these tricky issues
     
  5. Barnacules

    Barnacules New Member

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    Brennan Orlando likes this.
  6. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    just be alerted to Cura settings. Cura actually slices faster but usually works better when the settings are also set to go faster and it actually made things a little too fast for the Robo in some prints. Focus on keeping the speeds down and things will probably go alright.

    Some of the settings are different from what those using slic3r are used to so getting all of them to slow down may be tricky

    Good luck and let us know how things work out
     
  7. Matthias

    Matthias Member

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    Agree, tesseract. I just changed the speed from 50mm/s to 30mm/s. Wow, what a difference...
    My test object is http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14867
    The prints before looked kinda crappy, the outside wasn't filled, layers were not sticking. Now I only changed the print speed and modified the filament feed as per http://forums.robo3dprinter.com/index.php?threads/better-hobbed-bolt.846/page-4#post-7790 and quality improved drastically. I'll post some pics when it's done, it' s still printing...


    Update: adding some pics

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  8. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    would be curious about what those earlier prints looked like for comparison
     
  9. Matthias

    Matthias Member

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    Oh, those are the comparisons :)
    First pic:left ok, right bad
    Second :bad
    Third : ok
    The contrast lacks a bit due to the white filament

    Gesendet von meinem Nexus 5 mit Tapatalk
     
  10. Datum

    Datum New Member

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    Thank You for those settings for Cura. Just tried it for the first time and came out looking good. :)
     
  11. 1nxtmonster

    1nxtmonster Active Member

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    How to get cura to auto level? And my up/down controls are upside down.
     
  12. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    you have to modify the Gcode startup to include the G29 command that command initializes the autolevel
    Simply adding G29; autolevel immediately after the home commands should work
     
  13. 1nxtmonster

    1nxtmonster Active Member

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    So.. the G29 is a command that does a 9-point calibration and I put it into the code on the line after G28?
     
    #13 1nxtmonster, Nov 13, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 13, 2014
  14. Pergo

    Pergo Member

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    I'm using the Robo R1 Plus and use these as my favorite start gCodes

    G21 ;metric values
    G90 ;absolute positioning
    M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
    M107 ;start with the fan off

    G28 ;X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
    ;G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
    M565 Z-0.9 ; Define Z offset at 1.0mm
    G29 ;Run auto-level
    G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm

    G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
    G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
    G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
    G1 F{travel_speed}
     
    #14 Pergo, Oct 29, 2015
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2015
  15. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    Well I think you may have the M565 off set command in the wrong place. The auto level will basically reset that as it uses the actual stoppage of the nozzle contacting the glass as a reference point. You are simply setting something that gets reset immediately afterwards. It does look amazingly similar to what I actually use only I have my offset AFTER the auto level and use it to fine tune my first layer height. It ranges between -0.4 to -0.6 usually depending on whats going on with the printer at print time.
     
  16. Pergo

    Pergo Member

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    Thanks for pointing this error out!
    Fixing in my system now.
     
  17. Pergo

    Pergo Member

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    I fixed the above post to reflect your fix.. thanks
     

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