Deadwoods Printer

Hi all
My printer is now working quite well but I am getting a striping effect on my prints, this happens in all directions and resolutions. The belts and pulleys seem tight enough so not sure what to check next, any suggestions ?

 

Hi all,
I have been happy with my prints so far but I have just done a run of 32 coins that needed a hole through the middle but after drilling it the first layer delaminates really easily, I am using 200c for the first 3 layers then 190c and a layer height of 0.3 with a solid infil but I have noticed the same problem on other prints with different settings but I am using the stock settings for extrusion etc, Do I need to up the extrusion rate to get more PLA down on the first few layers?

 

if you need to be machining after the fact you might want to switch to ABS. PLA doesn't work very well

 

Haven't tried ABS yet but maybe its time to give it a go

 

Good luck. It's hard to do without warping in a non-heated environment.

 

Tied the ABS, heat bed shut down after a couple if mins but it was only a 10 min print of a small coin so luckily it finished ok so now I have to sort my heat bed out. Is the accepted fix still putting a relay in or changing the fuse ?

 

is there an empty spot on the board you could connect a PC 12v fan on ?

 

Deadwood, blowing a fan across the board is a good stopgap. I found that I required a rather strong fan.

Thhe accepted best solution is a relay or fuse. Option 3 would be new a RAMPS board with the appropriate fuse but then you're getting kind of silly.

 

Fan fitted just got to give it a test run, I also raised the printer by and inch or so to let the warm air out so it doesn't just recirculate warm air

 

Well I turned my printer on today and the 3 pin plug that goes into the robo started buzzing and crackling and I could see blue flashes underneath the robo, turned it straight back off and started my investigation. Turns out that where 2 of the terminals are riveted to the metal strips inside the female part of the connector have come loose causing the current to arc across them (see pic). I have not yet decided on a fix yet but whilst looking I came across an alarming wiring faux par, I was thinking about just bypassing the plug altogether and using a block to connect a flex and plug directly. I started looking at the plug / switch that came on the robo and was a bit confused with the wiring layout after checking things out with my multimeter, it seemed that the switch on the unit and the built in fuse was breaking the green / yellow wire which in the uk our wiring standard is red = live , blue = negative and green / yellow stripe is earth. Obviously a switched earth is as much use as an ashtray on a motorbike so I looked at the back of the plug unit and lo and behold the terminal which had the yellow / green wire was marked as Live so who ever put mine together had no clue as to UK wiring standards, I am glad I did not try connecting a flex to the same colours of the wires and I hope that when the buzzing and crackling happened it did not fry anything but to any UK users in fact any body please be aware do not take the wiring colours as being correct.

 

Yeah, the color scene is wrong on mine too!

 

any ideas on how to fix the pins ? I think there is too much metal there to try soldering them so think I will have to find an alternative from somewhere

 

I guess they are from china. I saw industry parts from there, where 3 phase motors were connected with 2 wires (brown, light blue, green-yellow, but the earth contact was empty...)
This should not happen and the Robo3d team should take care about this, if something happens because of this they will have troubles.

 

I wouldn't take color with much confidence regardless.

Follow the leads to the power supply, only that will verify they wired it incorrectly.

 

Hi all,
I have a bit of time on my hands so trying to sort the striping effect out on my prints. Tried some fine tuning and using the smooth rod stabilisers but not much success, tried matter control software damn its fast but still no change to the quality. Read the forums and found that the 5/16 threaded rods do not sit central in the flexible couplers and some people have found an improvement using metric rods. Metric rods sourced but on checking my flexible couplers the right hand one seems pretty eccentric so took some measurements to find some replacements. Obviously the top part is 8mm but the motor side measures around 4mm but all the ones I can find on ebay seem to be 5 mm, I cannot accurately measure the motor shaft itself as it has 2 flats at right angles but it does seem to be around 4mm so is this the size that is needed if so does anyone have a source for them or should I try RoBo ?

 

Scratch that upon re-checking this morning minus the beer goggles the shafts are indeed 5mm, Doh !
I clamped the couplers to a 5 mm drill and there is a fair amount of wobble so looks like I need to order some new ones.