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Differential IR height sensor, Attemptin' Clone....ain't sure of success...now stage 10

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by jim3Dbot, Aug 25, 2015.

  1. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Ok. I followed your method as we have the same firmware with the upgraded rods. If it works for you I figured it would work for me. I was wondering if I plugged the sensor in to the ramps correctly.
     
  2. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/3/3e/RAMPSendstopConboard.JPG

     
  3. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Ok so I should have it plugged in the other way around?

    I noticed Jim say not to get that part wrong, and switching it around would be going against how the other endstops are plugged in to the RAMPS.

    The Robo RAMPS have +, - and 20. Rather than +, - and S pins, as seen in my image.
     
  4. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    to be safe, post a pic of the harness plugged into the IR board and a pic of where you plug it into the RAMPS. Just to make for sure that we are looking at this correctly.
     
  5. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    The first image is of the cable plugged in to the sensor. I'm confident that's correct, with the signal cable on the left. The marking on the sensor are easy to follow.

    The second image is of where I have plugged the other end of the cable in to the RAMPS. With the positive and negative wires matching the other endstop wires in position.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    Looks like in your pic, you may have the white wire on '+' should be on 'sig'................
     
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  7. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    ok...if positive is red on the IR it should be on the + for the ramps. I can't see how it is plugged in clearly on the IR board. let me check mine...brb
     
  8. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    the master has arrived...
     
  9. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    If it is not on red to +, and it's S.T.Bed..............send it to me & I'll repair at no charge............the real master here is Danz.......I'm a rookie.........
     
  10. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    I agree, guys. I just followed what the other endstops were doing. How much trouble could it cause if I flipped them the wrong way? I don't want to break it hours after getting it.
     
  11. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    You may be alright............Forget about all else........raise the Z up 1in or so...........unplug the IR at the IR if possible...plug back in.............see if led blinks...then you will be fine...........Oh, Thanks Danz for helpin' out.........
     
  12. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Thanks to both of you! Should I switch it around in the RAMPS? I'll try what you suggested.
     
  13. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    Just make certain the red wire at the IR is on the + & the red wire on the ramps is on the +, all other wires will be correct...by default
     
  14. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    'O' got to leave for a while, I will check back soon.............Take Care guys..........
     
  15. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Gotcha. I'll do that right now and retry. Thanks for the patience and I apologise for my confusion!
     
  16. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    Ok I switched it around at the RAMPS. Now the LED activates perfectly, but the printer still ignores my start gcode and tried to home by touching the nozzle off the bed.
     
  17. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Warning: the sensor is fairly tolerant to mis-wiring, including having the 3-pin connector reversed. However, if you apply power with the Vcc and Gnd connections swapped over, you will destroy the microcontroller.
     
  18. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    can you post your start gcode?
     
  19. Oisin

    Oisin Member

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    I switched the position on the RAMPS and now it seems to be working other than the new problems I specified. I guess I got lucky!

    Code:
    G28 ; home all axes
    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm
    M565 Z-1 ; set the offset for auto-leveling mechanism
    G29 ; run auto-level
    
    ; This set of code is so that it autolevels before heating so that the BuildTek surface is not damaged
    G1 Z5 F5000 ; lift Z by 5mm so it doesnt rest on the BuildTek while heating.
    M140 S[0] ; Set Bed Temperature
    M190 S[0] ; Wait for Bed Temperature
    M104 S[185] T0 ; set extruder temperature .
    M109 S[185] T0 ; set extruder temperature and wait for temp
    
    With this sensor, I know I don't have to worry about heating afterwards anymore, but the fact the printer is now ignoring the command anyway is weird.

    I'm tuning in my distances for autolevel now since the sensor is going off the back of my BuildTek on the last three points.
     
  20. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    I posted the above warning so that you knew that it is ok to switch them around. As long as black is in the middle of both end of the boards, you are ok to switch them around.

    Oh that is not good. So yeah defining the grid a bit more so it stays on is best

    Code:
    M565 Z-1 ; set the offset for auto-leveling mechanism
    This should be M565 with a positive number. Mine is M565 Z 1.5, but my mount is different and yours will be somewhere around that but have to dial it in.
     

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