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Differential IR height sensor, Attemptin' Clone....ain't sure of success...now stage 10

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by jim3Dbot, Aug 25, 2015.

  1. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I'm being really lazy here and not going back 2 years to read every post lol sorry.

    I have the sensor kit from Printed solid pretty sure its Jims. I have had it a long time and just now am going to think about installing it. Like I said lazy

    Can someone point me to the page or link where someone else has installed one and set it up? I guess i should start with making a mount for it to fit on Yogi's titan carriage... but im not even sure which side is supposed to face down lol derp.


    EDIT: Im going back and reading the posts :)
    [​IMG]

    Way to many things to read, where is the sticky :)
     
    #321 KTMDirtFace, Apr 24, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2017
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If someone can identify the posts that are needed we can copy/sticky them.
     
  3. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    Good Day, @KTMDirtFace ............This is going to be off the top of my head, so I may miss something..........anyways,

    First, I would model a mount, as you suggested. I prefer to mount the IR in front of the extruder..........so I can see the IR trigger & more easily tweak the trigger distance from the bed, if it requires tweakin'. The assemblies are shipped with a trigger distance of less than 2.5 mm from the bed. Model your mount so that you can easily adjust the vertical distance of the IR from the bed, 3mm should be enough. The new Robos mount theirs at the rear of the extruder. Some mount to the right.

    Second, Route the cable.

    Third, Test the Trigger distance, LED illuminating......should be less than 2.5mm......Robo has seen as I have, the large white areas on the glass bed may cause a reflection from the bottom of the glass...no good......needs to trigger from the surface.....I removed my glass bed.....cleaned off paint.....painted all black.......see my not finished understanding MK2, thread.

    Sorry 'bout the lengthy thread......it wasn't rehearsed.....I was learning as I went.....Hey, KTM keep in touch, we will get it....
     
    #323 jim3Dbot, Apr 25, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2017
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  4. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Thanks I'll make a mount up tonight. Front right is where it will be going, as Yogi's titan mount has some grooves built in there for accessories anyway so I'll model something up that will slide into those slots.

    Do I need to change firmware settings?

    I don't have the glass bed anymore, have aluminum bed with fleks3d plate so its all uniform and I think should work fine. ( Someone here tested it on bare aluminum and said it worked fine too )
     
  5. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    @KTMDirtFace Permalinks #125 & #134 will help with the firmware rev's. I think you have a R1, if I remember correctly.

    Note, since you are installing on the right side, you will be revising the distance in the X axis instead of the Y as shown, the distance is from the nozzle tip to the lower edge of the board, approximately......

    Oh, Al bed just fine...
     
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  6. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I'm slacking on building my mount.

    Quick measurement, the screw holes are what 2.5mm diameter and about 18mm apart ( center screw hole to center screw hole)?

    Thinking I'll model something that clips on with some slots so I can screw/nut and slide it up and down if needed.

    I always screw up measurments.

    I'm getting
    18.5x24mm on the IR board itself. with 2.5mm holes at about 18mm apart.?

    Does that seem right? I'm printing a test now.

    Thanks and sorry for the 20 questions.
     
    #326 KTMDirtFace, May 1, 2017
    Last edited: May 1, 2017
  7. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    @KTMDirtFace Permalink #86 of thread..........
    Here's some pic's of progress towards the goal of fabbing a complete IR assembly. Board size - 0.920" x 0.700" with mtg holes 0.725" centers. Mounting.holes are 0.100" dia, ( accommodates #2-56 pan-head machine screws ) with over 0.200" dia. clearance for screw-head. Mounts to stock robo carriage screw, Mount IR loosely with 2-56 nuts in recessed channels, slide to best height & snug screws. If anyone needs the stl file, let me know...otherwise still work in progress............Take Care

    KTM, hopes this helps.......Jimmy
     
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  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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  9. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Everything I own Is metric, so gonna see what I can make work. But thank you for the help. I'll get it. Might have to order some 2.5mm nuts I have lots of screws but no nuts. My 2.5 mm screws seem to fit great in the board.

    May go with double side tape on my mount to tide me over for now, or velcro or something lame. just to get it going soon.

    Edit: working on it now, printing a rudimentary mount on the select mini that i should be able to double side stick it to, and clip it onto Yogi's mount. least for testing for now till I get it permanent.

    Thank you!

    Edit 2: Hopefully this is not spamming your thread Jim. Super quck and dirty test. Made it a tad too long LOL. This is not my final design for mount its a quick hack to see if I can 3m double side tape the sensor on while I wait for some 2.5mm nuts. Just made it a little to long, printing another out now that is shorter :)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    #329 KTMDirtFace, May 2, 2017
    Last edited: May 2, 2017
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  10. Doug Meek

    Doug Meek Member

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    You may want to move your mounting plate to the inside (toward the back) of the bracket to get the IR sensor closer to the extruder, just makes it's probing a little more accurate for where the actual extruder will lay down the filament. Looks like it will work good!
     
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  11. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    And i'm still working on this LOL. not because its hard but because I lost track with other things again.

    Printing some new mounts tonight, first one was a fail ( I followed advice and moved it back closer to print head, but moved it back too far lol ), printing another one now.

    So I assume when you say it needs 2.5mm to trigger, I should have it set about 2.5mm above the nozzle tip? so that i dont smack the nozzle into the bed? My print im making now is adjustable. Thinking if i just make it a bit higher than the nozzle it should be fine?
     
  12. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Latest prototype mount for Yogi's titan mount, just clips on pretty easy.. I had to print a couple little tiny spacer/washer deals. Using 2.5mm screws and nuts ( forgot the length I can look them up )

    [​IMG]

    Note: its just sitting on here loose.. un-wired...and hanging down too far. I may need to punch a bit more out on the adjustable mount holes.. but I think it might be good if i shove the IR sensor all the way up as is. will see soon.

    [​IMG]

    Might finish it up tonight but doutbfull.
     
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  13. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    G28 my printer, printed a 2.5mm plate and 3mm plate out. to get height on sensor right. Nozzle is on the bed here. 2.5mm plate under the sensor to get the height right.

    [​IMG]

    Going to go wire it up.. wish me luck :)

    EDIT: Got it wired up, wires were too short had to chop and solder part of a servo lead i had laying around. Too tired to finish, need to mod the firmware tomorrow.
     
    #333 KTMDirtFace, May 16, 2017
    Last edited: May 16, 2017
  14. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    Nice mount @KTMDirtFace ....Yeah, get some rest 4:06AM...............You didn't need to print the plate......The mini is pre-adjusted by me to trigger about 2-2.5mm from the bed surface............actually, I tweak it with a steel rule to be around 0.1" or less.......if it triggers much higher, it may be due to a handling issue.......Let me know, if there is an issue of too high of a trigger, (led illuminated).........Remember the mini will trigger where it 'sees the bed'.........Good Luck!
     
  15. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    The plate was mostly so that I could tighten it down level and not have it crooked ( don't know if that matters or not? )
     
  16. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    Probably not a bad idea KTM....
     
  17. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Hmm so I get a solid red light all the time. regardless of height..I can remove the mount and point it in mid air.. as soon as i plug the usb in its always solid red all the time. Tried moving random things in front of it to see if maybe it was triggering backwards but its always solid red. NOTE - I lengethed the wire using a servo lead I had by cutting the servo lead that came with it and adding another servo lead I had by soldering and shrink wrapping. I re-pinned the new lead I added because it was White/Red/Black instead of White/Black/Red like the servo lead that came with it... Re-pinning servo leads isn't too hard done it a bunch :) glad I caught that but maybe I did something else wrong.?


    [​IMG]

    Here is how its plugged in to the ramps ( R1 with lead screw upgrade )

    [​IMG]

    Did I do something wrong?

    Note: I have not changed the firmware yet, this is just testing it plugged in via the USB cable to my computer / and or with the robo powered on.



    EDIT: Here is my mount.

    [​IMG]
     
    #337 KTMDirtFace, May 16, 2017
    Last edited: May 16, 2017
  18. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    Hang in there, @KTMDirtFace ,my mini is installed on a R1 with lead screws upgraded also......give me a hour or so to check my Ramp card wiring against your pics.........Your mounting looks better than mine, good job...........Looks okay, but double check the mounting screws are clearing any copper...pics look okay tho..........I'll get back to you soon......I don't mind troubleshooting on thread, that will help another possibly................Jimmy
     
  19. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    I don't need to be running anything on the robo to test it right? just power/ground into it to test?

    I'll try taking the screws out on my lunch break and see if the light goes off.
     
  20. jim3Dbot

    jim3Dbot Active Member

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    Sorry KTM, trouble with my Cub Cadet, dropped rear tire off to install a tube, flat.......now, front wheel bearing went, major wobble....didn't get a chance to check ramps.........That was going to be my first test.....just supply +5v & Gnd.......led should illuminate a few seconds, then go out. When you plugged in the USB, Led came on solid, tells me your power switch wasn't on at the rear of the Robo.....the mini is seeing +5v for the first time...not the USB..........try the +5v & gnd first........I have to run, be back later...Thank you
     

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