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Difficulty level of upgrading hotend

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Doug1, Jul 25, 2014.

  1. Doug1

    Doug1 New Member

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    I have been looking at other printing materials. Particularly, T-Glase. The Mfg website recommends using at least a .5mm hotend for this material. They say you can use smaller, but it is not recommended. I was wondering how hard it was to upgrade to a different size? What all does it involve? Is it simply unscrewing one hot end and screwing in another or does it require more advanced knowledge? I have looked around on youtube and elsewhere, but it seems there is little info on the robo3d regarding this upgrade. At least, I could not find much anywhere.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you have (for example) an E3D (I imagine the other aftermarket hotends have this feature too) you would just swap the nozzle. Takes a cold hotend and 5 minutes. One heat cycle to seat it and you are done.

    When I bought the E3D I bought a few different sizes (.3 up to .8 if memory serves--still using a .4 for 99% of everything).
     
  3. Doug1

    Doug1 New Member

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    Awesome, thanks. I had read a few other posts about people patching their firmware and more complex steps. Are there any detailed instructions anywhere? Does a new hot end come with general instructions?
     
  4. 1d1

    1d1 Active Member

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    You can access e3d installation instructions from their site and any hotend swap is pretty much the same. On my first gen ROBO, the nozzle wasn't interchangeable, I don't think. On replacement metal hotends you can install a variety of sizes though I find, contrary to Mark's advice up there, it is easier (if not safer) to unscrew and replace the nozzles when hot. I have tried both e3d and Hexagon hotends and gotten greater success from the Hex - YMMV. Cheers!
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you hot swap you do not need to do the hot seating :)
    Cold swap you have to heat it up and then retighten. So, either way...
     
  6. Doug1

    Doug1 New Member

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    Ewwww...My Robo 3D is a 1st gen kickstarter printer. Does that mean it will be harder, if not impossible, to replace the hotend?
     
  7. Jacob Kirsch

    Jacob Kirsch Member

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    The printer currently shipping includes an all-metal hot end. Does anyone have photos of it?

    I'm about to bail on a kickstarter printer and am trying to decide which way to go: Robo 3D, Solidoodle 4 or Printrbot Simple.
     
  8. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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  9. Jacob Kirsch

    Jacob Kirsch Member

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    Thanks! Such a tough decision... :)
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You will need to replace/upgrade the stock hotend to one that has replaceable nozzles. E3D does, I imagine Hexagon and the others do as well. When I ordered the E3D you could order replacement nozzles of differing sizes.

    [At least the ones shipped with the original robo that I got were not replaceable nozzles, it was a hotend with a fixed nozzle.]
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    IMHO, It is worth the upgrade just to be able to do more variety of materials...even if you did not care about the nozzle size...
     
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  12. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Both the hex and the e3d have swappable nozzles. e3d V6 has really done some cool things around the nozzle geometry, so if you're planning on using a lot of different sizes, that's the way to go. The RRD people did send me a few sample nozzles in different diameters, but don't seem to be offering them for regular sale.
    FWIW, I switch pretty regularly between a 0.4 and a 0.8. If I don't need XY resolution, like for a vase with simple geometry, the 0.8 saves a ton of time and gives a stronger print. 0.5 and up is great for t-glase and also for filled materials like wood, bronze, and carbon fiver. I've never run smaller than a 0.4.
     
  13. Heath Rust

    Heath Rust New Member

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    No, I have the first gen and I have the Pico hotend. I only had to cut the wires, re-solder, and heat shrink. Very easy. The only thing I am seeing with the Pico is the alignment of the filament going down is a little snug... I might have the Pico aligned correctly yet. All in all it isnt that bad.
     
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  14. Doug1

    Doug1 New Member

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    How hot can you get it now? Have you tried any higher temp materials? Does it print any better? Do you still get rough corners? Sorry about the questions. Just trying to determine if it is worth the money and time.
     
  15. 1d1

    1d1 Active Member

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    I can print effectively at 260. Could go higher in theory, but don't need to with the materials I regularly use. The hot ends are not difficult to replace on any version of the ROBO - but the nozzle for the hot end can't be changed on the stock hot end and 230 is really the limit. All metal hot ends give you the capability of printing higher temp materials, disassembly for cleaning if necessary, and removable nozzles for different size apertures. Decent corners, better prints, etc. are more dependent on the adjustment of your machine and your knowledge of appropriate temps, speeds, settings. etc. than a better hot end. For what it's worth, I've yet to hear of anyone saying a good all metal unit wasn't worth it, Practice will improve the outcome no matter which hot end you choose to work with.
     
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  16. Heath Rust

    Heath Rust New Member

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    +1
     
  17. Doug1

    Doug1 New Member

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    Thank you for that answer. I believe it will go ahead and order a full kit. I am sure I will have a few question when I go to install it. Does anyone know what size nozzle comes with the full kit?
     
  18. 1d1

    1d1 Active Member

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    .4
     
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  19. supinemonkey

    supinemonkey New Member

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    This may have been posted elsewhere, but these resources are invaluable for the E3d upgrade:
    http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6-Assembly
    http://e3d-online.com/E3D-Troubleshooting
    Thomas Sanladerer's excellent video guide is also referenced here.
    The tip about lowering the retraction in your slicing software to around .6 seems to have solved a puzzling jam problem I have been having with mine. <fingers crossed> Also, I am chagrined to discover that I have had the fan mounted backwards for 2 weeks. Live and learn.
     
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  20. Galaxius

    Galaxius Well-Known Member

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    Is that a pic with the Hex factory fit by team Robo, or has it been retro fitted by a user?
     

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