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Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Oct 23, 2014.
uploaded. my extruder is now at 738 degrees. Halp?
How do we know what you changed?
I changed what was in the guide in at the start of this thread.
Not heated your extruder reads that temp? Can you copy and paste from your config.h files what was changed. Check to make sure you didn't destroy the thermistor....their crazy fragile
Hey, watch what you say there!
Beside a lot of stuff is broken in Marlin 1.0.0
I broke a leg off. Nevermind. I'm ordering a stub thermistor. My clumsy paws cant handle this thermistor.
I'm a newbie, having some trouble... After I fix this all up i'm going to try to do a thread dedicated to the R1 plus. because it is definitely confusing. for one, even my version of the chip board does not look exactly like the other R1 Plus users picture (somewhere around page 20 i believe)
I thought I had everything setup correctly, everything except firmware, which reading through this thread left me confused what i'm supposed to do or if the firmware actually does need to be updated.
I wanted to test out the wiring, I turned it on and opened Matter Control, and saw that it recognized the temp of the extruder, I clicked pre heat and it started to go up so i thought I was on the right track... I tested the X Y and Z access all were fine up and down, and then I wanted to make sure the extruder was still working but when I clicked it, it froze, the temp on the extruder stopped which was around 155 C...and I could no longer control the X Y or Z, except for the Homing buttons. I exited and restarted.
I suspected something might have been wrong with the thermistor because it was a pain to seat it correctly. and then of course it broke when I removed it to check it out.
I replaced things back with the original and I was able to see the temp again, and control XYZ, but the extruder didn't seem to work... But i'm led to believe that the firmware simply needed to be updated. and I just broke the thermistor removing it, and possibly the extruder motor for no reason. ahhh lol and to top that the usb connector is shot now and needs to be replaced bc a pin inside broke off.. nbd, a little soldering... but i cant do anything else right now...
I think I may have read that if i use a different type of thermistor, I dont have to update the firmware. But I don't mind doing firmware if its simple, and I can be pointed to the file, bc I couldn't seem to find it and only to contact Robo if you want to do anything, which I will as well.
So at this point since I have to buy a new thermistor either way, what is the best option?
Also, if someone can clear up what I did wrong too that would help.
Thanks a lot guys, love the 3d Community already!!!!!!!
What happens if you don't? wondering if i blew my motor but cant even check at the moment.
But is this firmware necessary for the screw in thermistor you previously recommended, or no? definitely a confusing mess...
I just want to make sure, i had thought you had said that it doesn't need firmware upgrade...
otherwise, Is there any benefit to the firmware upgrade, that I should stick with the original e3d thermistor? I'd rather just use this screw on one if it meant leaving everything else alone... I've broken enough, and its way to delicate, lol.
If all that is changed is to use the metal stud thermistor then the original firmware is fine.
As is the "Leadscrew Upgrade"
If you switch the thermistor to the one provided by E3D then you must edit which ever one you use.
The thermistors are fragile which is why we suggest using the metal stud version.
As Mark knows I've been struggling with getting all of the settings right with the R1 +plus.
If it's powered on and the extruder temp reads 738c before trying to heat it, there is a short. Probably a metal leg touching the heater block or broken thermistor leg. Mine was touching the block.
As for steppers Mark is helping me on that. None of the files at the beginning of the thread seemed to have the right value.
Nothing that is horrible difficult to fix, just very tedious in making sure numbers match up. Does not necessarily help that the Robo seems to change quite drastically with each model. Even my Wades Extruder was different from any pictured I could find about the mods. The R1 +plus uses a quick release plate for the extruder that the previous ones did not. Or perhaps even just R1 +plus models after a certain date switched to that, not sure. But the quick release plate will not work with the E3D V6 hotend. So aside from drilling out the holes in the wades extruder, have a modified plate to make sure things stay tight. I found one on thingiverse which worked well, cannot find the file since I am away from my computer right now, however any J head mount plate should work, so long as it is 5mm where the J head fits in. There are also some interesting Wades ends that are available on there that do not require the use of the mounting plate and have the necessary mods built in, but cannot say if they work or not since I modded the one that was on the printer.
Here is the file I used for the quick plate.
Well, it wasn't just the thermistor, the whole extruder was changed to the e3d v6, but since the thermistor broke, I bought a metal stud version and that's on the way, but everything else is the e3d v6, so is there any firmware needed? Sorry it was just a little confusing the way you worded that.
I believe if you use the stud thermistor it is the same as the factory one, at least setting wise so you would not need to change the firmware at all.
Excellent... Does anyone have any input on why it froze when trying to move the extruder and if that's a problem with the motor or something? Can't test until I get my parts but I'm wondering if that's common or not...
No clue on that end. I've had my robo freeze before but a power cycle brought it back up and running.
Check the USB since the board on the Robo does not do anything without the input from another source. (Computer software, Raspberry Pi, etc...)
I was having issues with my computer freezing, not the printer. (Namely because my computer is old). As well as the USB not being 100% on the computer side of things. I hooked up a Raspberry Pi 3 and run Octoprint on that. Use it as a print server and print away. Works well and I can manage prints when away from the house.
Check to make sure the ramps fan is blowing on the ramps all the time, if they overheat it does crazy stuff. It's on the bottom right .
I know its new but has anyone installed the New E3d Titan extruder yet ?
Hi Guys, total newb to 3D printing here and currently in the middle of upgrading my Robo 3D R1+ to the E3D V6 Hot end. Is it possible to use the original heat cartridge off the factory installed hot end with the E3D V6 Hotend? If I DO need to use the E3D V6 Cartridge, Is it okay to shorten the blue wires on the E3D Heat Cartridge so I can use the stock wiring harness provided I add JST Connectors. I am trying to disturb as little on the main board as possible to eliminate issues down the road from screwing up the wiring. I am going with the screw in thermistor since I already destroyed the E3D thermistor that came with the kit. One last question, with so many of the same wire colors being used, if I have unplugged all the fans, extruder stepper motor, thermistor, Do I need to trace each wire back to the board to make sure I am hooking up everything exactly the same?
I also wasn't interested in running wiring all the way back to the RAMPS board and had the right JST connectors on-hand, so I wired up the E3D's fan, thermistor and heater to connectors so that I could do the swap-out purely at the carriage itself (did this both to a v6lite and a normal v6). Been working fine for my R1+plus. So it's definitely possible, I solder wiring harnesses occasionally for work so I was comfortable doing it.
I figured out the wiring using a voltmeter on the unplugged connectors (be sure not to short the pins while measuring them). The heatsink fan connector is 12V the whole time the Robo is powered-up. The thermistor connector measured around 5V if I recall. The heater connector had no voltage at all and was the pair with the thicker wires. If I recall I had expected the thermistor connector to be the thinnest wires but I think that was actually the heatsink fan connector on my unit.
Oh, if you also unplugged the parts fan it should also be off (no voltage) normally, you could issue a "M106 S255" command and that should energize the connector (12V), and "M106 S0" to turn if off again. But again of the two connectors that don't carry a voltage all the time the part cooling fan connector should be the one with the thinner wires compared to the heater connector.