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Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Oct 23, 2014.
Dod you reuse the hexagon heater ? Is the thermistor secure ?
No, I wish I had re-used the other one. I didn't think about it until it was too late. Yes, the thermistor appears to be secure.
Couple things. The v6 only comes with a 25W heater. You could go up to a 40W heater http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Spares/Heater-Cartridge-12v-40w. You could get a pack of these cheaper on Amazon. The second thing you could do is a PID tune. Just some suggestions.
A lot cheaper. Dirt cheap.
Yep id suggest in the mean time hooking back up the 30 watt hexagon then ordering the 40 watt ones
Thanks, all. I'll give the 40 watt a shot.
i just recently bought the E3dv6 and have successfully installed the hot end. it seemed to be pretty straightforward and it didn't take too long to get my printer back working again. I am running into a pretty big problem though...I can print a beautiful first layer. The problem is, when my printer goes to the second layer, the Z height is much too high. I end up extruding about 1mm above the previous layer. I have tried Homing ALL, checked bed level and messed with the Z offset a bit. It looks like a -.82mm gives me the fantastic first layer, but I cannot get past my second layer. It looks as though when the printer goes to the second level it forgets any of the offsets that I have given it. Any suggestions? I have the ROBO R1+ with auto level.
Did you load the correct firmware ?
Yes, as far as I know. I put in the below firmware for the instructions on page 1 of this guide.
If you have a bottom cover with rods that run all the way to the top, you have M8 threaded rods so should be using this firmware:
I loaded one firmware and it was wrong. You may want to download the actual firmware and modify it so your certain its correct.
The V6 actually now comes standard with a 12V 30W heater. Same as the hexagon. So, leaving the hexagon heater and just switching over makes a lot of sense. No need to switch back though. It's highly unlikely that the heater cartridge would be the cause.
The V6 used to come with a 25W heater, but that was quite a while ago. Easy way to tell is to look at it and see what is engraved on it.
Most likely, especially since it is starting at the second layer (same place your fan turns on) has to do with new fan mount cooling the heater block and nozzle rather than the part. The PID tune will probably help, but it may be necessary to change where the air is directed or just go up to a higher wattage heater.
Sorry about that. I thought I read a post recently that said the came with a 25W. Not that I would doubt your word, but I just checked the one got from you and it does say 30w on the side.
Do you know where can I find the original arduino firmware for the r1+?
Yes. Download the leadscrew upgrade firmware. That is the original R1+ firmware. They have a v2, but I don't recommend it.
Im running v2 at the moment just to see what happens and haven't seen any adverse issues but I'm waiting for them
Well if you ever have to use a specific gcode command you will see the issue. They inserted a new code and didn't terminate around it correctly. Can't remember which one off hand. There's nothing new worth it to go to V2 that I saw either. I think if one was to use a new version then going to the Marlin version @WheresWaldo has been working on for the Robo is the better bet.
Your recommendation was spot on...that resolved the issue! Thanks!!
One other question though, whats the difference between the first and second version of the software?
Glad that cured what issue you had. As far as differences, I spelled those out here.
There is some poorly added code that adds the ability to start up printing a very particularly named file on printer start. There already was code in Marlin to print auto0.gcode and Robo added the ability to use a file named robo0.gcode. Otherwise there is no additional functionality. That is why @danzca6 and I do not recommend anyone install v2 firmware for the PLUS. If you want something new with actual bug fixes and new features, then look at the Marlin 1.1.0 thread in the Mods sub-forum.
I got the real E3D v6 (direct from E3D in Great Britain with Bowden tube for $75.91 with overnight shipping to United States) and a Chinese one for $15 off of Amazon on Friday for my Robo 3D Plus version. I figured I would try the Chinese one first in case I screwed anything up. The Chinese one is working fine.
I just had to print out a .015" thicker "quick release plate" that was recommended on here from Thingiverse, so the whole print head assembly would not wobble. I tried the two different ones recommended in this thread, and they both were too thin. With M3 stud thermistor it was not too bad of an install once I figured out the quick release plate was too thin.
These are the two parts I ended up printing out with the slight modification to one:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1192896 <-make .015" thicker if using ABS if you get the Chinese E3D v6 that I got off of Amazon
These are the two parts that I got off Amazon:
I think I used one of these from this pack of wiring connectors:
Everything was plug and play with no wire re-route to the main board on the bottom of the printer. No firmware changes needed either as has been stated before with the $12 M3 stud thermistor.
I may stick with the Chinese imitation E3D v6 one for now and save the real E3D v6 for a I3 printer I may get. Although I am curious to know how much better the print quality would look with the real E3D v6 on my Robo Plus.
One other thing is that I do have to run ABS and PLA about 10-20 degrees cooler for cleaner prints with this setup to avoid strings and other extra plastic bits.
Finally, thank you to all that contributed to this thread. You were very helpful to me and I hope the info I provided helps someone with the plus version.