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E3D v6 Information, Installation Guides, and Review

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Oct 23, 2014.

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  1. Mark Hunkler

    Mark Hunkler New Member

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    I was able to get it back to stock with the hex file located here
    http://download.robo3d.com/firmware/R1Plus/ROBO3DR1PLUSV2.hex

    Now, does anyone have any recommendations for obtaining a working firmware or hex file for the R1 Plus. I think thats where I went wrong, are these files for the regular R1 only?
     
  2. Mark Hunkler

    Mark Hunkler New Member

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    ok sorry for all the comments. I have gotten it back up by using a screw-on thermistor. Once that was fixed and the temp readed ok, the motors were able to be used...

    I would like to be have the firmware on hand to use the basic thermistor if needed so if anyone has that for the R1 Plus please let me know. Thanks, and I hope me working through my own problem helps someone,
     
  3. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Using the hex file and updating through matter control won't help you. You needed to download the arduino version so you can change the thermistor setting from 0 to 5 in the configuration.h tab. Then using arduino ide you compile and update the firmware. If you get a compile error, read my comment at the bottom of the firmware page regarding renaming a strict called fpos_t. Follow that with sending the commands M502 and M500 in a terminal window to refresh the EEPROM.

    There are really 2 firmware versions by Robo for the R1+. I prefer the original released version over v2 you linked to above, because of some sloppy code Robo has yet to fix. http://download.robo3d.com/firmware/R1/ROBO3D_LEADSCREW_V1.zip is the one I would stick to. There is a much newer version yet, but that is still in release candidate stages.
     
  4. TKCC71

    TKCC71 Member

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    Was wondering if you guys could assist. There are 36 pages here and just have a few questions.

    I have a newer R1+ (purchased March 2016) and My hex extruder is wearing out so I am looking to upgrade my extruder to the E3V6. Been thinking about this but feel somewhat intimidated by the job.

    Just have a few questions.

    1. Will I need to change any firmware?
    2. The R1+ has the quick release for removing the hex extruder. Will the quick release on the R1 work with the E3V6?
    3. Are the connectors the same as the hex or will they have to be changed?
    4. Will I need to print a new fan housing?

    Sorry for so many questions, but most of what I have read through seems to be for the R1. Wish there was a step by step thread here on upgrading the EV3 on the R1+.

    Also, does anyone have a good source for the Hobb Bolt replacement? I called Robo tech support today and they had no date they could provide me for available replacement parts being available for the Hex extruder or Hobb Bolt. (Was told it could be weeks). So trying to find alternative sources.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is why this thread is so long :)

    Not unless you want to use higher temperatures and if you reuse the Hexagon thermistor.
    If you uise the E3D thermistor then yes -- you have to update that in the firmware.

    You need to reprint a new one
    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1192896

    There are no connectors on the E3D, you have to wire them in and/or reuse the ones from the hexagon

    Yes if you mean the mount for the parts fan
     
  6. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Yes you do actually. The thermistor in the V6 needs the type changed in the firmware compared to the Hex hotend thermistor. It will need to be changed to a type 5. Unless you want to reuse the thermistor from the Hex which is possible with the cartridge style.
     
  7. TKCC71

    TKCC71 Member

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    Thanks Mark, always appreciate your assistance. You have always been a great help. :) I guess I will go for it.

    Any recommendations for the Hobb Bolt?
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, I was updating the post when you posted :)
     
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  9. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    This is a good one. Easily snaps on and off when needed. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:697200

    Also, please consider buying from a certified supplier like @Printed Solid instead of a clone you will find on Amazon.
     
  10. TKCC71

    TKCC71 Member

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  11. yost87

    yost87 New Member

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    Good Day Everyone!

    Using: Robo R1+, Smooth rods (not threaded) goto seats in top cover. I used first firmware in list of 3 at start of this thread.

    Im using Octoprint and Cura, can anyone tell me where to set my Z-Offset to stop "printing in the air"??? After upgrade to E3D v6 and upload of Arduino sketch (first one in list from this thread) my Z is was way off. If I raise carriage in Octoprint Control, it travels more than it should. Meaning, if i raise carriage by 7 clicks on the up arrow from Octoprint Control page (with increment set to 10), it only takes 7 clicks of button to travel from bed/home to reach max height and collide with top cover. It seems to be traveling +35mikemikes per click (250/7 = 35.8ish).

    I've changed the Z-Offset in the Gcode before export from Cura and finally got the first layer looking good, but after that layer nothing is accurate in the Z axis. I comprehend the Z-Axis offset in the Gcode for each print, but do not know where to find Z-Offset for print-head.

    Also, after E3D install, how do i secure print-head from rotating? When i wipe print-head, it will rotate if im not careful. i am afraid to overtighten the two vertical nut/bolts securing extruder to carriage, but is this what i need to do?

    Thanks in advance.
     
    #711 yost87, Nov 12, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 12, 2016
  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hello. I don't think you should use the firmware in this post. I'd suggest getting the r1+ firmware off the robo page and change the thermistor type. Id imagine the z steps are wrong
     
  13. yost87

    yost87 New Member

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    Morning Geof! Danke! Thanks for response!
    That makes sense. I will get original.

    Would you suggest changing to type 05? Should i change temps also? I believe i read that those 2 things need to be changed...
     
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hi @yost87 , yes thermistor type goes from 1 to 5 for the e3d. The max temp is the next line. This is optional, if you need a higher max temp then yes change that line as well :)
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    None of the firmware in this thread is for the R1+
     
  16. yost87

    yost87 New Member

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    Thanks! I will need to reread this thread, somehow I thought this was my model printer. Thanks again!
     
  17. TKCC71

    TKCC71 Member

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    Quick question, I installed the E3D V6 on the R1+ and my old hex had a canister style thermistor and the canister style heating element. I installed all of the E3D V6 components (E3D Thermistor and its heating element) and it prints good without messing with the firmware. Am I missing anything by not messing with it?
     
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I believe for accurate temp monitoring you will want to have the correct thermistor value :D
     
  19. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    That is true @Geof. Even though the stock thermistor on the new hexagon hotends are cartridge based and now the E3D V6 comes with a cartridge style as well, the internal thermistor is different. If you are using the E3D thermistor you will want to change the thermistor type in the firmware from 1 to 5. I have heard folks using the hexagon cartridge thermistor in the V6 heat block and then you wouldn't need to change the firmware. Your choice.
     
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  20. TKCC71

    TKCC71 Member

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    Thanks guys, Is there a good step by step guide on changing the firmware for this. First, I just want to make sure I have the right version for the R1+. Also I downloaded a Arduino sketch for the firmware from the Robo site but it had multiple sketch files in the download folder and when I opened one of them in Ardriuno software it had lots of tabs in it so I felt a little lost on where to change the 1-5 for the type thermistor?
     
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