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E3D v6 Information, Installation Guides, and Review

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by Mike Kelly, Oct 23, 2014.

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  1. Rwalker

    Rwalker Member

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    It does seem to yea.
     
    #141 Rwalker, Mar 31, 2015
  2. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Which way is the fan blowing? Got an ir thermometer to measure the heatsink temp?
     
    #142 Mike Kelly, Mar 31, 2015
  3. Rwalker

    Rwalker Member

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    I don't have an IR thermometer.

    The fan is blowing air towards the heatsink.
     
    #143 Rwalker, Mar 31, 2015
  4. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    It's probably not getting hot enough to melt the PTFE tube. Just seems unlikely unless it was burning to the touch
     
    #144 Mike Kelly, Mar 31, 2015
  5. Rwalker

    Rwalker Member

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    Just it's just warm. And the previous tube had deformed near the top of the heat sink.

    Would using canola oil with the pla have anything to do with it?

    I also recently started printing with your enclosure model.
     
    #145 Rwalker, Mar 31, 2015
    Last edited: Mar 31, 2015
  6. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    No canola oil should have no effect. If you're printing PLA only and have stuck below 240C then it's impossible for the PTFE tube to have melted.

    It could be getting deformed from insertion.
     
    #146 Mike Kelly, Mar 31, 2015
  7. Brian Spaulding

    Brian Spaulding New Member

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    Heads up when printing the cooling fan for an R1. I found that the screw hole size is too small in the ones mentioned in the beginning of this thread:

    I would recommend using this remix for newer R1 models so the screw hole fits the larger M4. It worked out great for us.

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:491434
     
    #147 Brian Spaulding, Apr 9, 2015
  8. pitcjd01

    pitcjd01 New Member

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    #148 pitcjd01, Apr 18, 2015
  9. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    That's for the v5. I suggest getting a cyclops or chimera instead. The modular carriage would work for the v6 if you want to go that route.
     
    #149 Mike Kelly, Apr 18, 2015
  10. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    im relatively new to the 3D printing world (a big noob) can anyone tell me how to change my firmware to this one and im also quite worried about taking a drill to my printer :S only upgraded because the stock print head jammed on every print with very few successful prints
     
    #150 max longstaff, Apr 21, 2015
  11. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Use arduino ide from www.arduino.cc

    You can use the instructions here: help.robo3dprinter.com/Wiki/RoBo_3D_Firmware

    the drilling is easy, just undo the two screws holding the greg's wade and drill away. You'll be glad you did. Removing the hobbed bolt is a good idea to prevent damaging it.
     
    #151 Mike Kelly, Apr 21, 2015
  12. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    Thanks exactly what I needed my new print head should be with me tomorrow :)
     
    #152 max longstaff, Apr 21, 2015
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you are really worried you can hand-tap it. It is not that hard.
     
    #153 mark tomlinson, Apr 22, 2015
  14. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    well i got my e3d and installed it but there was no tube in the package :S it works for about 10minutes without the tube then gets a large lump of plastic on the end that doesnt fit out of the filament guide hole so now i need to do another full disassembly :( any ideas on how to stop the jams
     
    #154 max longstaff, Apr 24, 2015
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Get some PTFE tube and add it in. Go back to where you got the kit and let them know it was missing.
    The v6 will not work without that liner.
     
    #155 mark tomlinson, Apr 24, 2015
  16. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    oh thanks :) will have to let them know quite suprised i got it direct from E3d is this why i get a cylinder at the end of the filament when i pull it out?

    also as i wasnt too comfortable working with the wiring i used the stock heater is this an issue i pressumed it would be fine but wasnt 100%
     
    #156 max longstaff, Apr 24, 2015
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You should replace the heater.
    The one with the Hexagon is slightly less wattage, but as long as you are not going a lot hotter then it will work.
    The heater core is not the cause of this. Without the PTFE liner the E3D is going to be prone to jams.
    Also make sure that the 25mm fan attached to the hotend is running (full speed) anytime the hotend is hot.
     
    #157 mark tomlinson, Apr 24, 2015
  18. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    I'm sure ill replace the heater when I'm more confident in doing so is there any temporary solutions if i dont get it working by monday i fail my year at university :S
     
    #158 max longstaff, Apr 24, 2015
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Go buy some PTFE tubing and add it in.
    Or swap back to the Hexagon.

    Sorry, that version of that hotend needs it.
     
    #159 mark tomlinson, Apr 24, 2015
  20. max longstaff

    max longstaff Member

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    okay thanks
     
    #160 max longstaff, Apr 24, 2015
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