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E3d variable nozzle sizes

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by collin, Sep 16, 2014.

  1. collin

    collin New Member

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    Printedsolid recommended getting some of the other sizes available for the e3d. Generally i take his word as gold, but before i invest in these parts(ill probably buy em anyway because im addicted to personalizing my printer) id like to hear some of your input on the merits.

    so guys....

    can the robo handle the .075? that tiny nozzle?
    -does it make the layer potentially smaller?
    -(unrelated) is there someway the 100 micron threshold can be busted?

    the largest nozzle size: .08
    - does this larger nozzle size ooz more?
    - i know it will make the part stronger, but does the larger nozzle make its base speed potential higher

    Also: -do these new sizes need to be tuned in with more than a nozzle size change in the slicer?
    - does swapping nozzles create an opportunity for jams and such?

    like i said before, ill probably end up buying them anyway after alll they are dirt cheap. But is there a size to avoid? things i should know you've discovered through failure of your own? Ill probably buy a spare heat break while I'm at it, i have no idea how i haven't broken mine yet.
    Thanks, friends


    @Printed Solid
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I have a 0.8, no it does not ooze more.
    All I do is swap the nozzle and load the correct config/slicer settings.

    I have 4 different sizes I occasionally use, but 90% of the time I am using the 0.4
     
  3. 1d1

    1d1 Active Member

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    I have a .4, .6, and .8. So far, the .6 is my favorite. I print down to .1 resolution with the .4 and have no adverse effects from the nozzles if I remember to change the slicer input. I generally print larger layers, so going any smaller isn't something I have tried, but tesseract got down to .05, I think, maybe smaller even, with is ROBO setup. Perhaps he will chime in and let us know how low he could go. It gets very slow down there....
     
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  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I like the .6 (we actually lost a .4--it got major clogged before we added the oiler--and had to switch for quite a while).
     
  5. collin

    collin New Member

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    speaking of the fabled oiler, do you really think its necessary? I haven't heard of it until now or on any other forum.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I found out about it via the MakerBot forums :)
    I printed a lot of PLA without one, then, every PLA print would jam. Sometimes quickly, others way late in the print.
    After a month of hassling with it I Googled around and found the information on the oiler (makerbot forum) and added one.
    I have been jam free ever since.

    If you have had no jam/clog/issues with PLA, maybe you don't need it. However, it is a great prophylactic since it doesn't negatively impact anything I have tried.
     
  7. collin

    collin New Member

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    Have you had any slipping or under extrusion?
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Not a bit. It doesn't impact the hobbed bolt biting into the filament and feeding it. Once it a great while I will get a small drop of oil on the print, but it wipes right off. Most of it flashes away at the nozzle. It rarely actually gets past that. Heck I only add a few drops to the sponges every few prints anyway. The filament comes out of there with a fine sheen of oil coating on it. Not dripping or anything.
     
  9. collin

    collin New Member

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    Im going to print this out and give it a try, if nothing at all else its a bit of an insurance policy for long prints.

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:422671

    im also downloading simplify 3d to give it a shot see how it works. i really want that awesome support material
     
  10. collin

    collin New Member

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    wow simplify 3d is expensive
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yea, I agree it is not cheap, but if you can afford it then it is worth every penny.
    Also, their support folks actually respond :)
     
  12. collin

    collin New Member

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    lol to that. Im a college student, Looks like im sticking with Repetir. Oh well if it works it works.
     
  13. Invertmast

    Invertmast Active Member

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    Repetier is like driving a pinto compared to simplify3d
     
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  14. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Just to add my $.02 here.

    I use a .8mm nozzle quite frequently because I print a lot with wood. It is awesome for that, and like 1d1 mentions, you really don't miss the XY resolution on most parts.

    Never personally tried anything smaller than a 0.35. Not a huge fan of the smaller nozzles as they have a higher potential to clog and print time goes way up. However, if you are making things with a lot of XY detail, they may be worth it for you.
     
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  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I once used the smallest one just as a test on a 0.1 mm layer height and I agree. If you need that fine a detail it is probably worth it, but dang is it slow...

    Imagine getting rear-ended now in the Pinto... That would be MatterControl in comparison
     
  16. Invertmast

    Invertmast Active Member

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    LOL.. Soooo true!
     
  17. collin

    collin New Member

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    The oiler gave me horrible results lol
     
  18. John Durr

    John Durr Member

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    Has anyone ever tried the .25 nozzle from e3d with with v6 version. I use Cura and was wondering about changes needed in the software besides changing the nozzle size under machine?
     
  19. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    That's all you need to change. Might also be worth setting your perimeters to a multiple of .25 as well.
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There are some general guidelines about layer thickness vs nozzle diameter as well (for example the max layer height should be no more than 80% of the nozzle size and you probably want to stay above 20% of the nozzle diameter as a minimum).
     

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