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Solved [E3DV6] Feeding trouble

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Shigemal, Apr 18, 2015.

  1. Shigemal

    Shigemal Member

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    I could confirm your point from picture.
    I shall make gap between cool-end and hot-end.

    regards
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That should fix it for you. Without a heat break you will jam... a lot becuase the heat will creep up the cold section of the hotend.
     
  3. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    I am referring to this picture
    [​IMG]
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well... ? o_O

    You do know the plastic (PTFE) tube that came with the hotend goes inside the hotend?
    I am hoping that one is an extra bit....
     
  5. Shigemal

    Shigemal Member

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    I have placed PTFE tube from hotend to hobbed gear hole top as justified.
    So I need to get comment on this placement whether tape is necessary for it.
    1) Some bushing at cool-end ?
    2) special tape need to tube ?
     
  6. Shigemal

    Shigemal Member

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    I have changed hobbed bolt from reprap shop.but it was bit longer than robo3D.
    So I have asserted extra bearing for adjustment.

    regards
     
  7. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    The only thing you need to do is to fix the assembly on that E3D. Get a proper gap between the heat sink and the heater block.
    All of that other stuff is maybe nice if you're trying to do something special, but none of it is needed for normal printing.
    If you don't fix the E3D assembly, every print will jam.
     
  8. Shigemal

    Shigemal Member

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    Lastly I have achieved good result when E3D reassembled.
    But I do not care about gap between hot-end and cool-end.
    It may have some gap. should I place some PTFE washer on this gap ?
    I need to achieved tighten setup as solid.

    regards
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It should snug up and still leave a gap if it is properly assembled.

    Just make sure whatever you do that you DO have the gap there. :)
     
  10. Shigemal

    Shigemal Member

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    Thanks Mark
    I shall confirm this setup next visit to my second home (Laboratory).
    It has been placed on Apr29(JST).

    regards
     
  11. Shigemal

    Shigemal Member

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    Hello Mark
    I could confirm current gap setting of my E3D.
    It has gap as 0.2mm or more.
    It achieve good result.

    Thanks again for your support
     
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  12. Shigemal

    Shigemal Member

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    Hello Printed Solid.
    Yes, my achieve result was based on reassemble of E3D head.
    And it has gap between hot-end and cool-end.
    ( It was not expected result of my works but it makes right result.)

    Thanks for your suggestion
     
  13. Shigemal

    Shigemal Member

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    Today I had received latest hobbed bolt from Robo3D team.
    And I have changed with it.
    So this print blocks works fine also.
     
  14. Shigemal

    Shigemal Member

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    I had added thermal decoupling as picture.
    This thermal decoupling washer can use until 400C. 20150424_000306.jpg 20150424_000317.jpg 20150424_000337.jpg
     
  15. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    You still have it assembled wrong or you have a counterfeit. If you had it put together right, you wouldn't need the washers and you certainly wouldn't need the glue you have on the nozzle.

    Here is a picture of the heat break cross sectioned.

    See how there are two different diameters of threads with a gap between them? That gap should be above the heater block. You have yours threaded all the way in so that it is not visible anymore. It is also threaded in so deep that you are unable to properly insert your nozzle. The nozzle should not be glued. It is supposed to be a part that you can change out as desired.

    [​IMG]
     
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  16. Stephen Capistron

    Stephen Capistron Active Member

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    The glue might be leaking pink filament?
     
  17. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    Please watch this assembly video and follow it very carefully:

     
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  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    No @Stephen Capistron @Printed Solid is right. The heat break is threaded into the hotend heater block. So much so that the nozzle won't enven thread all the way in (and the leak is right around the nozzle). The nozzle SHOULD be all the way up to the heat block.
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Or, it is not a real E3D... that could still be the issue.
    But if he got it from E3D directly it is just misassembled.
     
  20. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    Ok ok ok.
    Remove the nozzle and heat break.
    Screw in the nozzle FIRST!. The nozzle should butt up against the heat block. No threads on the nozzle should be visible. Just finger tight. Then unscrew it a quarter turn.
    Next screw in the heat break into the heat sink.
    Next screw in the heat break/heatsink into the heat block. Once again finger tight.
    Next tighten the nozzle (DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN IT).
    Then heat it up to at least 250 degrees celcious.
    Tighten the nozzle so it's snug. That's it.
     
    #40 jbigler1986, Apr 23, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2015
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