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E3Dv6 Replacement for Hexagon Hotend

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by WheresWaldo, Sep 17, 2017.

  1. Larry Garrido

    Larry Garrido Member

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    Ok I see so I just got the wrong board, do I just disconnect the pi board from the control board and put my usb cable in there or is there a 2nd usb port on the control board I plug into? And all this should be done with the printer powered on correct?
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Power off (and unplug the power brick from the printer). Unplug the pi from the control board, plug the computer in.
    When you connect the ARDUINO IDE just tell the software it is an Arduino Mega board and set the serial port correctly.

    You may not need to plug the printer back in, see if it will connect without it. If you do just unplug everything again when done and then reconnect as normal.
     
  3. Larry Garrido

    Larry Garrido Member

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    Awesome thanks for your help Mark!
     
  4. Larry Garrido

    Larry Garrido Member

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    Ok I think I got it, I changed sensor 0 from 1 to 5, then I did the verify/compile and it processed and said compile complete, then I did upload and it completed. Hopefully I changed it in the right spot, is there a way to check and verify the change stuck? Or would the printer give an error if it had the wrong sensor connected?
     
  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    No error, just read the incorrect temperature. Since this is not a changeable variable after compilation there really is no way of reporting which thermistor table is being used.
     
  6. Larry Garrido

    Larry Garrido Member

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    How do I read the temp/verify the temp Im seeing in octop and the printer screen is correct?
     
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Use an instrument to measure it. that is the only true way. If you change the source and recompile and reupload then you have to trust that the compiler did the right thing, otherwise all is lost.
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Contact pyrometer on the heater block will get you the data or ... if you are careful a laser one.
     
  9. Larry Garrido

    Larry Garrido Member

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    Oh ok I see, I got a laser somewhere going to see if it actually will read that high of a temp.
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Good luck, I tried with the laser one and it is a bit of a hassle to try and actually get an accurate reading.
     
  11. Larry Garrido

    Larry Garrido Member

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    Yea I don't think the laser is a good tool to use for this, it's odd there is no way to verify what thermistor profile the printer is using.
     
  12. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Many Marlin features that are set in Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h have no feedback and assume you know what you are doing.
     
  13. Larry Garrido

    Larry Garrido Member

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    Hopefully I did it correct. Is this the spot where I was supposed to make the change?

    [​IMG]
     
  14. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Yes that is the spot
     
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  15. Larry Garrido

    Larry Garrido Member

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    Cool thanks!
     
  16. Larry Garrido

    Larry Garrido Member

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  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Should work nice on C2 or R2
     
  18. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

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    Nice! Has anyone tried this out?

    I've had one too many problems with the Hexagon, and the Robo-specific parts (like the heatblock) are a pain to get... After once again getting a clog that required me to disassemble the whole thing, and following that up by stripping out the thread in the heatblock simply by screwing in the heatbreak, I've decided not to invest any more money or effort in the Hexagon and move over to E3D instead.

    This mod looks like an easier solution than modding the V6 (like Larry Garrido did) or making a destructive modification to the R2 itself (like I believe @WheresWaldo did).

    There's also this other mod, which was meant for switching out a broken IR board, but should work with the stock one.

    I don't mind losing a bit of Z height, so which mod do you think I should go for?
     
  19. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @sgomes personally I think I would do the extruder reprint that @Larry Garrido posted a couple of posts above yours. Make sure your printer is very precise . My guess is ABS or Nylon would be the filaments of choice for this but without testing it myself, that is just a guess. That mod seems the least objectionable and the most reversible.
     
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  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I doubt it would really matter if it were PLA, but probably like yourself I would just use a Nylon and avoid the question :)
     
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