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PC eSUN ePC filament

Discussion in 'Printing Filament' started by WheresWaldo, Nov 20, 2015.

  1. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @David Sparrow That seems to be the only thing that eSUN lacks. It is the same for all their filaments. I would contact William directly at admin@intservo.com
     
  2. David Sparrow

    David Sparrow Member

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  3. David Sparrow

    David Sparrow Member

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    Thank you for the suggestion. William posted the material data sheet info on http://www.intservo.com/. It's on the main page. It's the 4th slide in the revolving carousel.
     
  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Very cool. Now all we need to do is support him, either direct purchases from the INTSERVO site, or help William and Jeff Bezos make more money buying through their Amazon store.
     
  5. Schlomo

    Schlomo Member

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    I successfully used the ePC material yesterday. I have an actively heated chamber which gets up to 70c so i needed to replace my x carriage which was printed in PETG. The carriage was starting to flex during the auto-level routine, so i wanted PC for the higher glass transition.

    The ePC filament oozed pretty badly from my E3D v6, and will not stick to my PEI sheet if it is less than 50c. I printed with a bed temp of 110c, and it stuck like a charm. All i can say about the filament is it is incredibly ridgid, and I can see quite a few great use cases for this filament. Wish the price was closer to $25/kg not 50/kg but hey, its a special plastic.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sounds like regular polycarb to me :)
    My tests with it were similar. It is a bit tricky to get printing correctly, but it is a very strong/hard material.
     
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Did some more printing with Polycarbonate filament (eSUN ePC). Still had some warping even with a 5 mm wide brim. Super strong, won't twist or bend at all. much stiffer than the same model printed in Taulman Alloy910 and eSUN Natural PETG.

    Printed at:
    260°C Extrusion
    100°C Bed
    60 mm/s speed
    0.100 layer height
    4 perimeters
    20% hexagon fill
    0 bottom layers, 8 top layers​

    _1MG6023.jpg _1MG6025.jpg _1MG6026.jpg
    This is a fan duct for another printer that goes around an E3Dv6 Volcano, so I wanted something that could withstand much higher temperatures than PETG. I need to reprint it and think I will try some thing about 10°C higher on both the bed and extrusion. It is not cloudy even though the flash makes it look more white than it really is.

    Printed on my R1.
     
    Mike Kelly and mark tomlinson like this.
  8. Schlomo

    Schlomo Member

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    Looks good. I didnt get any warping with PEI at 110c bed temp.
     
  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Schlomo, you are not providing enough information to be helpful, was it a big or small model? how long was the print? what was the printing environment? Pictures or it didn't happen.
    :)
    This particular print was about 3:45 and I do not have an enclosure. Ambient air temperature was about 20°C with no drafts on the print and the parts fan was off for all but the very last 10 layers where the filament bridges the duct opening.
     
  10. Schlomo

    Schlomo Member

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Printed at:
    250°C Extrusion
    110°C Bed
    35mm/s speed
    0.200 layer height
    2 perimeters
    40% Honeycomb Fast
    3bottom layers, 3 top layers

    Printed on PEI with no warping. Smaller part printed vertically, Large part Horizontally. Printed in 55c actively heated chamber. Some extrusion problems during the print but those have since been fixed.
     
    #30 Schlomo, Feb 18, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2016
    Mike Kelly likes this.
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I am printing at nearly double your speed with no issues, but I do run hotter than you by 10°C Your bed is hotter and I am going to increase my temp to what you have set. I understand why you printed with 40% infill, mine is a duct and with 4 perimeters even 20% infill made it so strong I can stand on the part. I am going to reprint it with 15% and 3 perimeters, it should also drop the weight down a gram or two and might shave off a few minutes of print time.
     
  12. Schlomo

    Schlomo Member

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    Yeah, i had to lower my speed with all filaments due to my extruder grinding badly, waiting on a new MK7 gear to try out but for now its slower print speeds.

    Because this part is for for my carriage, i figured the 40% would be beneficial. In reality 25-30 would have been fine, it is so stiff.
     
  13. Damien Wing

    Damien Wing New Member

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    I am printing a light saber hilt and from my tests using PLA when the blade (not printed is pc) is hit and the vibrations of the impact travel down I have a break on the screw threads joining the two pieces together. I'm even using 100% fill and printing at an angle and it helps making it last longer before it breaks but it does end up breaking and right at the threads. The pipe has a OD of 1.65" and I'm using the 1.43" ANSI screw threads. It seems to me that the PLA is too brittle at least in the top piece of my design. I was thinking of using nylon from taulman but would ePC be a better choice?
     
  14. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Nylon has a bit more elasticity than polycarbonate. The biggest advantage of ePC is its ability to withstand heat as well as strength. I am sure ePC would work for this. The only thing you will need to concern yourself with is warping, especially on bigger prints, but then you will have the same issue with nylon.
     
  15. Damien Wing

    Damien Wing New Member

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    So wouldn't nylon be better to absorb the shock from the vibration? Or would I still need something stronger?
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Depends on the type of nylon. Some might be too flexible. If overall strength is the point PC is the best answer.
    Although, most nylons are pretty strong...
    You have to evaluate the material you need based on how it will be used.
     
  17. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Since it is breaking at the threads, would it be possible to use a heat set thread insert instead of trying to model them in plastic? I am just asking since I have no frame of reference other than your written description.
     
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