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Solved Extruder won't heat up?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by SnipesyMcGee, Sep 10, 2015.

  1. SnipesyMcGee

    SnipesyMcGee New Member

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    Hello, very new to 3d printing and just recieved my robo 3d r1 yesterday. I have only had one print on this machine. After this was completed i went to do my second print and the extruder will not heat up. Mattercontrol shows that it is preheating but it will only go to 23C and will hover there. Please any help will be awesome.
     
  2. Sonny's Robo3D

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    That sounds like wiring to me.

    23c is basically room temperature so either your hot end isn't heating or your thermistor isn't reading it. Is it getting hot? I wouldn't recommend you touch it but it should be drooling a little filament. Or take a piece of filament and touch the tip and see if it melts a little. If it's hot, then it's the thermistor, if not then the hexagon hot end isn't working.

    Check the connectors above your hot end housing - make sure all the wires are connected. Then you should check under the Robo where the board is. Make sure no connector came loose down there.

    If you need to know how to remove your bottom plate do steps 1,2 and 3 in this guide:
    http://guide.robo3d.com/Guide/Lead+Screw+Upgrade/14

    The thermistor wire on mine came lose from the board. Hopefully it's just something that simple.
     
  3. Frankn

    Frankn Member

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    I keep a thermistor wired to plug in. I unplug the thermistor that goes to the hot end and plug in the test thermistor.
    If the heat rises, the heater is ok. If it doesn't, it is the thermistor, or it's wiring.
    I like to narrow it down before I take things apart. Just my approach, Frank
     
  4. SnipesyMcGee

    SnipesyMcGee New Member

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    I checked the extruder and it is not heating up. I have checked all the wires above and below and nothing seems to be unplugged but i made sure to push on those to make sure they were seated good. Any other suggestions? Is there a way i can test the thermistor?
     
  5. William Muraski

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    the thermistor can be check with a multi meter or VOM (volt ohm meter) for open, short, and resistance. you can also check the voltage on the ramps board and power supply.
     
  6. Sonny's Robo3D

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    I would email the robo guys and setup a one-on-one. Might have a bad hot end
     
  7. SnipesyMcGee

    SnipesyMcGee New Member

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    Found out it was a firmware issue. Now, when I try to print. The printer does it's autolevel, but it keeps doing it over and over and keeps bringing the z-axis up. It takes it up so high that it almost hits the top before i cancel the print.

    Edit: What i'm saying is the printer has no maximum dimensions. It will go to the top and bottom of the z-axis, as well as x and y.
     
    #7 SnipesyMcGee, Sep 10, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2015
  8. William Muraski

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    what was the issue with the firmware?
     
  9. SnipesyMcGee

    SnipesyMcGee New Member

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    I thought i put the new updated firmware on it but apparently the firmware available from the website will not work with the new R1s.
     
  10. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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  11. Sonny's Robo3D

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    Mike Kelly likes this.
  12. William Muraski

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    matter control and it's firmware update is buggy, has been for a while i file a bug report but nothing has been done with it for over 6 months. use the Arduino IDE d/l the correct firmware 5/16 or 8mm for your printer and install.
     
  13. SnipesyMcGee

    SnipesyMcGee New Member

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    This firmware will not work with the new R1+.

    "If you own a ROBO R1 +Plus, DO NOT update your 3D Printer. Please contact support if you need new firmware."

    This was added because of my problem.

    Only the firmware that ships with the R1+ will work right now. I was on the phone with James from robo trying to fix this issue for many hours and we tried multiple different firmware and the only successful firmware is the one that ships with it.
     
  14. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    This is a real problem for Robo and does not look good for them. They are specifically using an Open Source firmware, yet they have produced no source files nor made them available as per the Open Source standards. I would kindly ask them to provide source to comply with the OSS initiative, they must comply if they are using Marlin. Only then will we see if they made changes specific to the +PLUS that modified base code other than the recommendation to change only the configuration files.

    One more thing, if you look at their hardware for both the R1 and +PLUS there are only minor differences, the bed/heater is the same, the Hotend is the same, the Steppers are the same, the RAMPS/Arduino boards are the same, the only significant difference is the Z axis lead screws. So like I mentioned in your other thread, unless they really f*cked up the source, since there have been no major releases of Marlin (1.1.0 is coming but not ready yet), they are using a slightly modified version of 1.0.0. If they did make changes other than to configuration files, I would challenge Robo to post those changes to the Marlin community so all can benefit.
     
    #14 WheresWaldo, Sep 14, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2015
  15. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    I'm curious what they could actually change that makes the firmware everyone that has been using on an R1 that they modified to the same add-ons the R1+ has (leadscrews, etc.) not work with the actual R1+.
     
  16. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Yeah, @daniel871 that is my point, if the changes are so drastic that Marlin 1.0.0 no longer works, then Robo either messed it up or purposely went in a proprietary direction. Either way, users should know what they are getting into.
     
  17. SnipesyMcGee

    SnipesyMcGee New Member

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    I'm not very educated on the firmware and other things yet. But, I can tell you that the z-steps are different on the new firmware. With the old firmware using mattercontrol, if you try to raise the z-axis up by 10mm it moves basically 100mm. So, 1mm was closer to moving by 10mm than 1mm was. Putting the new firmware on there will fix the z-axis to move correctly.

    With the old firmware, if you tried to auto-level the z-axis keeps raising until it goes off of the threaded rod or it hits the top of the case.

    I know that this model has the z-axis stabilizers built in.
     
  18. SnipesyMcGee

    SnipesyMcGee New Member

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    We had to try different firmware because for some reason my extruder was not heating up. Don't know what actually fixed it in the end, but I am just glad its working now.
     
    #18 SnipesyMcGee, Sep 14, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2015
  19. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @SnipesyMcGee The specific issue you mention two posts up would be corrected with one simple edit to a single line in Configuration.h, that would lead me to believe that they simply aren't ready or are unwilling to post their modifications to Marlin. Either way, it would have been very easy to find out the exact number with the collective knowledge on this board.
     
  20. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    #20 Mike Kelly, Sep 14, 2015
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2015
    mark tomlinson likes this.

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