Unresolved Failed Overhang

You should fix your cooling issue . Then hopefully you wont have these issues my friend

 

You might want to ping the maker ... It looks OK but doesn't say if it is for the hexagon. I suspect it is but you should check to makes sure.

Sent from my BNTV450 using Tapatalk

 

Agreed. I havent tried that exact one

 

The higher resolution the worse the print. Share a photo of the benchy issues ?

 

@Geof

I think you read Spanky's post backwards, the 0.10 came out better but took too long.

Spanky, Think about it this way, you have an angle your printer is trying to create. so you slice the model up and say at .1 it takes 99 layers to print the angle. At .3 it only takes 33 lines. Visualize this, the angle is the same so that means that at thicker layers the overhang must be greater for each layer. If for example at .1 each layer is offset .1 then the same angle at .3 needs to be overhung .3. Here is why .1 prints better than .3, regardless your layer size the extrusion width is always the same. So you have less material touching with greater overhangs and larger layers.

To compensate for this you either have to stretch the filament tighter during the extrusion by increasing the outer layer speed and/or cool it off faster. Each setting has pros and cons, that is why there is no definitive answer. Faster printing means more artifacts and accompanying loss of detail, faster cooling could result in lower intra-layer adhesion.

3D printing is all about compromise.

Also you are probably not utilizing S3D to the best of it's ability simply because there are things that aren't easy to do. A very simple thing if you have a model with an excessive amount of overhangs is to print at a low layer height but print the infill at 200% and only every two layers, that way your perimeters get the advantage of better surface detail and consistency but your print times aren't astronomically long.

Unfortunately, a lot of this stuff you are just going to have to learn on your own, you will waste a lot of filament, but in the whole scheme of things, the filament is a cheap teacher.

 

I did in fact read it backwards. My apologies. to go along with what @WheresWaldo states above, cooling also has to do with temperature. Do some temperature tests/towers and determine what temperature your filament looks the best. It will likely perform the best at that temperature as well. Mix that with good cooling fans and you should have great overhangs. Keep with it, your getting there. Maybe go for a .2 resolution if .3 is ugly and .1 takes to long? That is a pretty standard resolution for a .4 nozzle. I can attach pictures of my set up, but its just 2 fans (similar to the ones you bought but evercool brand) with an E3D V6 (has no improvement on overhands, I needed to print flexibles). If you still want the picture I can do that.

 

I've got about an hour left on this print and I'll snap one for you

 

Drop temp to 190

 

Test extrude the filament and find the real best temperature or print one of those temperature tower models that varies the temperature and see what is best.

The numbers on the spool are scientific wild-assed guesses. Seldom are they the right temperature for your printer in your environment.

I have printed PLA as low as 175. Just depends on the spool and the environment

 

http://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=temperature+test&sa=


This is a good example:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:851525

(has a video on that one too I think)

Just a handy way to test a range of temperatures to find your best one