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Finding Parts for the R2 - What to look up

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Hanover, Aug 21, 2017.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If you mean the side plate it is probably there to make the airflow from the hotend cooling fans more effective. You can leave it off and have the E3D provided fan mounted on the side instead I imagine

    Otherwise print a replacement plate that fits with the E3D
    Then add some metal for the tabs and it should work
     
  2. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

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    I've been using my printer without it, while I'm waiting for a hotend replacement from Robo. It's worked fine so far. I did add some Kapton tape in its place, though.
     
  3. Hanover

    Hanover Member

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    It clogged straight away. It primed it okay, but as soon as it started printing, nothing was extruding. :(

    I tried heating it up to 230 as some had suggested, but it's still clogged. The PLA is stuck in the pipe right above the nozzle. Gonna clear it and see if I can try it again.

    *stares at R1+ printing along...* :)
     
    #43 Hanover, Aug 23, 2017
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2017
  4. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

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    Could be heat creep softening the plastic before it's supposed to melt. Is the cold part of the new hotend getting enough cooling?
     
  5. Hanover

    Hanover Member

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    I think that's it. It started printing Benchy, then got clogged again. I even used different filament, just in case. So the E3d will NOT work with the R2. I think it's just time to get another Hexagon like Mark got for his C2.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I documented the connection for that in my C2 dual extrusion mod thread.
    The new heater core will be just loose wires. Stock uses a JST connector (I linked to the ones I think) so with a crimper you can simply recreate the connections.
     
  7. sgomes

    sgomes Active Member

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    The R2 is prone to heat creep anyway, even with the stock hotend and stock fan, which I'm sure was perfectly positioned for it. So I'm not surprised a different hotend performs even worse.

    The fan looks like a cheap, noisy, generic Chinese part, so I wonder if a slightly upgraded one would help... I might try that at some point.
     
  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Typically the throat is the problem child on cheap clones (headaches). Take it apart and measure it. You may have to drill it out to get it working somewhat ok
     
  9. Hanover

    Hanover Member

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    I hate to be "that guy" and I really try to do all I can before I return anything, but I bought this from Amazon, and I'm still within my replacement window, so I just requested a replacement. Time to wipe the slate clean. Between the PEI that became uneven after I used the scraper that was included with the printer (I never used a printer with PEI before, just aluminum and glass), and the thermistor that fell apart just removing the hot-end from the extruder, I think this is fairly justified. They've been pretty much replacing defective printers with new ones anyways. I still have both boxes and all the packaging material.

    Things I've learned:

    • Don't use the scraper they included with the printer. o_O
    • I'm not sure what I could have done differently with the hot-end though. I didn't expect the thermistor wires to fall out of the little connector. I think that was just a defect.

    I also will not be using the R2 as my main printer until they get stocked up on spare parts. I'll stick with my R1+ for multi-day prints. I'll be a bit more careful if my R2 ever gets clogged...
     
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  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Best approach.
    It is actually better to go through a reseller like that since you get far more immediate customer service from a larger company like Amazon.
     
  11. Hanover

    Hanover Member

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  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Experiment. We had not located a direct replacement for the Robo Hexagon thermistors, but we did find some close.
    If you do locate one that is an exact match, let us know.
     
  13. Hanover

    Hanover Member

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    Well, I just opened up my replacement....[​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    How does a wire just fall out of the extruder with the extruder shroud on? Not only that, look how cleanly those wires have been cut. I noticed when I was unboxing it that one of the handles was on upside-down. The door has a scratch on it too, and it didn't have any protective plastic on it.

    I'm really close to just returning both units and getting a refund.

    So, do you think I should just take the serial cable from the one I'm returning?
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Sorry, we are shooting blind here (no picture)
     
  15. Hanover

    Hanover Member

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    You should be able to see it now.
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I am having a hard time believing that is shipping damage and while you can fix it pretty easy I would still be raising heck with Robo on this. Not good.
     
  17. Hanover

    Hanover Member

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    I just sent them an email. Talking to "Tier 1 Support" about this is as useful as talking to a wall. Could this have happened during the manufacturing process? Does anyone know how automated their manufacturing process is?
     
  18. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    When folks say to buy a hardened nozzle, which ones will work on the stock R2? A URL to one that would work would be highly appreciated.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
     
  19. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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  20. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    On eBay I purchased a 3mm stainless steel tube with 2mm hollow core and cut with a dremel to match the Robo thermister. I purchased a 2000 degree glue on amazon. I purchased some E3D v6 clones on eBay. I took the thermister off of the clone hotend and glued into the cut off section of stainless tubing being careful to get the glue only in the front of the tube and on the glass bead and not get any glue on the wires or teflon sleeves. I then soldered on the connector from my broken Robo thermistor onto the new assembly. I used a K type thermocouple and verified that the temp readings were the same a the Robo LCD display. I now have an easy and cheap source of thermisters.
     
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