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Firmware not updating - WTF

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by adikted2astro, Nov 12, 2019.

  1. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Hey guys, I'm running into all sorts of problems lately. Now, for some reason, my firmware isn't updating and I don't know why. I made some changes to the Config.h file, then compiled, exported, and flashed the firmware onto my R2. But, the changes I made to the config file are not reflected in EEPROM. It's acting like the changes were never made. I've done this dozens of times in the past, so I know I'm not doing anything wrong. The printer goes through the firmware update and reports back that everything is fine, except it isn't. I'm extremely confused.

    Also, I thought I was running 1.1.8, but for some reason, it says it's running 1.1.6 (and I'm compiling 1.1.8). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Clear out eeprom and see what happens
     
  3. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    How would I do that? Do I just press the reset button on the EEPROM page of Settings? I don't think I've ever actually done that before.
     
  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Give it a shot ? I normally connect my machines to my printer and do a M502(cleats settings) then a M500 to save to the cleared settings
     
  5. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Ah I see, just issue an M502. My bad, I thought you were talking about something else. You are right though, i didn't actually do that after updating the firmware, so I'll try it tomorrow and see what happens. I DID so it before updating the firmware, just not after.

    Also, I'm actually running an older version of the firmware and have been all along. I'm going to try an updated version and see if that helps. Although the newer version is really not much different than the one I'm running now (from what I can tell in the config file anyway).
     
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  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I haven’t done much firmware playing with the R2 but I’d 100% clear eeprom after each flash. @WheresWaldo may have more valuable info to input
     
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Exactly what @Geof says, unfortunately this bites a lot of people. Even I sometimes forget. But if you don't clear it Marlin doesn't do it either during a reflash of the firmware.
     
  8. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Interesting, I did not know that and I've been flashing firmware for a long time.
     
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  9. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Ok, so I flashed the new version of Marlin and did an M502 immediately after and it worked. Thanks guys. I would never have thought of that and would've been banging my head against a wall for a long, long time.
     
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  10. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Geof,

    I've got another question and I asked WheresWaldo, but I might as well ask you too. I always use UBL and I have my mesh points perfect, down to single digit differences. I use 6 points on each axis, for 36 total mesh points. When I performed UBL in the past and issued a G29 T to verify the mesh, I would get something like this:

    Recv: (0,5) (5,5)
    Recv: (1,195) (195,195)
    Recv: [ 0.027] -0.014 0.042 -0.001 0.023 -0.020
    Recv:
    Recv: -0.057 -0.007 -0.016 -0.012 -0.023 -0.071
    Recv:
    Recv: -0.059 -0.068 -0.059 -0.074 -0.098 -0.165
    Recv:
    Recv: -0.107 -0.095 -0.101 -0.137 -0.157 -0.224
    Recv:
    Recv: -0.134 -0.135 -0.168 -0.208 -0.246 -0.319
    Recv:
    Recv: -0.149 -0.165 -0.202 -0.258 -0.313 -0.376
    Recv: (1,1) (195,1)
    Recv: (0,0) (5,0)

    But now, after verifying the mesh, I get a (1,30) (195,30) instead of what I have in bold italic above. I am taking this to mean that the mesh points are now spaced between Y=30 and Y=195 instead of between Y=1 and Y=195. I've compared the UBL bed leveling scripts between the 1.1.8 version (new) and the previous version and I see no difference at all, other than the G26 mesh validation tool. I'm not sure what to do because I love the mesh the way it is and I don't want to have to redo all of it all over again. I can't figure out where the change was made in the code. I've literally compared every single line of the config file.
     
  11. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    I think I found my answer. It's in the config_adv file, defining the min and max mesh insets. In the new version, those are not defined, but they are in the old version. So I'll try that and see if it does what I need it to.
     
  12. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Yes, that was it. I remember having this problem before, but it's been 20+ months since I started UBL and I've been using that older version of Marlin since then.
     
  13. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Glad you sorted it ! I actually don’t use UBL I use a very old manual mesh leveling and just manual leveling on my R2s lol old school but it’s simple and works without fail :)
     
  14. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Geof, can I ask how you do this? I'm getting tired of having to redo my mesh every time something changes. UBL is great but takes a long time to get right and I seem to be having some serious issues with my IR sensor (got a new one on the way).
     
  15. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Manual leveling ? You run A G28 and use the leveling screws to set the bed level. Then in your scripts you remove everything but the G28 (is how I run mine). You may need to manually shim your bed to get it flat if it’s got a very low spot but manual when possible is always my preferred
     
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  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Exactly what @Geof said :)
    All of mine run manually leveled. I never have to mess with it unless I work on the nozzle or hotend.
     
  17. adikted2astro

    adikted2astro Active Member

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    Interesting. I level mine manually as well using the leveling screws. But I NEVER have good prints that way. I always have to run UBL or MESH, or something. I thought a while ago that it was my IR sensor, but I replaced that and still have to do all the steps. It's quite possible that it's my bed itself. I either use a glass sheet on top, or (recently) a piece of garolite. I can't use Buildtak very well because my prints stick so hard that I have to use a hammer to get them off. Even that didn't work once. I had to peel off the sheet of Buildtak with the part still on it, then put the part in a vise, and peel the Buildtak off of it. Needless to say, I cannot use any part I print on Buildtak.

    But, performing UBL, Z-offset, and G28 on a cold bed an nozzle seem to help a lot.
     
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  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There is nothing incorrect about either approach. UBL WILL account for a warped/deformed build plate (although honestly I have never had a sheet of float glass be uneven enough to matter).
     
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  19. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    It’s my opinion glass will cause inaccuracies with the ir sensor. You can paint the bottom side of the glass with high temp black and it may help
     
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  20. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I only use glass beds with contact type endstop sensors, like BLTouch
     

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