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Solved First Layer - Gaps Between Lines

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by MMP13, Sep 28, 2015.

  1. MMP13

    MMP13 New Member

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    Sorry is this has been answer but if it has either the title was bad or it was much furher back:

    I just got my R1+ the other day. Kudos as it is a serious upgrade from the BETA that I had.

    One issuse that I have after my first print is the first layer has gaps between extruded lines resulting in a not completely solid first layer. I am sure there is an easy fix but I am not sure what it is.

    This is the only layert that does this.

    If I don't hear anything I will give supprt a call later but I don't have access to the printer right now.

    Thanks,

    Matt
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Either the first layer is not as flat as it should be or the extrusion width is perhaps mis-set. You might try another slicer to see if that affects it.
     
  3. MMP13

    MMP13 New Member

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    I am a little confused. I am using matter control that came with the printer. All of the settings are preset. Why would I want to use another slicer and shouldn't the extrusion width already be pre-set? If not what should it be and where do I set it in matter control?

    Also, as for the layer being flat this is an R1+ with auto leveling. I am doing and 8 by 8 print right now now and the gap where there is not material is consistent.

    Thanks, Matt
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The slicer does that and yes, it is preset to something. Changing slicer may affect this since it is a function of the slicer.

    I can't be specific for MC, I don't use it. It should be under the slicer settings (and MC has more than one slicer it can use so just pick a different one).
    Autoleveling still has an INITIAL Z offset that determines how close to the bed the nozzle starts (and how 'flat' the filament will be).
     
  5. MMP13

    MMP13 New Member

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    Mark,

    Thank you very much. I think that I understand now. I thought that since it was labeled staff member that you were a ROBO employee and thus able to speak to Matter Control. I can change the sliver for sure.

    Is there a spot to change the z-offset in settings?

    Just out of curiousity what softwaree do you use if not matter control? When I had the BETA I used repeteir but thought I should switch to matter since it was "endorsed" by robo.

    Again, thank you very much. I really appreciate it.

    Matt
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I would say that MatterControl is fine as long as you are happy with the features and it is working for you.
    In my case it was the former (and I ended up with Simplify3D) but for some people it is the latter. If it is not crashing on you or failing to slice correctly and you are comfortable with it, use it. (Certainly don't go buy something like Simplify without a good reason.)

    I did look on their wiki/documentation and this:

    http://wiki.mattercontrol.com/Slice_Settings

    (search for Z offset) does talk about how to set it.

    Another way to do it is to customize your STARTUP GCODE as they also discuss there. If interested I can point you to a thread that talks about this.
     
  7. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    Gaps between lines in the first layer means that your z offset is to high. It's not smashing the layer enough. Change the offset lower until you get the lines to just start touching either other.
     
  8. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Not always Z offset, It could be that his extrusion overlap is too small, different filaments may require more or less overlap, since they all expand a little differently. My setup typically uses 15% overlap, but for some reason to fill in all the little gaps on the first layer, my PLA setup requires 18% overlap.

    This is usually why people here will ask for a picture, you know; Picture or it never happened!
     
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  9. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    I started using MC and got the gaps like you mentioned on the first layer. I switched to Cura, now I get nice tight bottom layers that are smooth. Not sure what MC is doing, but as far as I could tell, I had all settings set the same in Cura. I'd try Cura, it's free, and see if you get the same results. Post a picture or two and we might be able to better steer you to a solution. The advice given by the folks above is solid. All good things to check.
     
  10. MMP13

    MMP13 New Member

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    Thank you all very much for the replies.

    So here is where I am at. The z-offset was set to 0 already. Not sure I can set that negative.

    I needed to get this print done for a customer so I did what I do with my Robo3d beta. After the print started I adjust the lead screws manually until thw extruder was low enough that the lines came together.

    So where I am at now is that I know the solution, the extruder needs to be closer to the bed for the first layer, where is that setting? The default first layer height in MC for. .2 resolution print is .3. I am thinking that this is going to be the culprit but until the print is complete I cannot test.

    Do any of you believe that this is not the case or have a better solution to get the extruded closer to the bed for the first layer?

    Thanks,

    Matt
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  12. MMP13

    MMP13 New Member

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    OK. That is slightly counter intuitive however I believe that the z-offset in my case needs to be postive, which will bring the extruder closer to the bed.

    Thank you all so much for your help. I am going to test this either tonight or tomorrow and I will let you know the results.
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Blame the Marlin folks. I think in the new releases they changed it :) They certainly talked it to death.
     
  14. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Well, new releases of Marlin did change it, but Robo3D does not use the new release candidates of Marlin. So the z-offset is still negative and set using M565. So @MMP13, unless you decided to modify your own version of Marlin 1.1.0 RC (or are using the version I have posted here), you are likely using a firmware version Robo3D provided and it is negative, it will just be less negative.

    As a side note, Marlin 1.1.0 RC does not support M565, it uses M851 instead.
     
  15. janot928

    janot928 Active Member

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    an other way to set the offset is this (has been more reliable to me):

    G1 Z5 (set your offset here if you want 0.8mm offset enter 5.8)
    G92 Z5 (this takes your current Z position and set it as 5)

    Just add this after the G28 and G29 (and don't forget to delete the M565)
     
  16. c. West

    c. West Member

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    Is your firmware compatible with the Plus? I read your firmware thread and you mention changing some things in the configuration.sh for the Plus but what exactly?

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
     
  17. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I am not 100% certain, but I believe you only need to change the Z steps from 2560 to 800. Others who have looked at the R1+PLUS firmware could likely answer better.
     
  18. c. West

    c. West Member

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    OK I got a copy of the OEM firmware sent to me from RoBo so I'll look at them side by side and see what's up

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Really that should be the biggest change (Z steps/mm).
     
  20. c. West

    c. West Member

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    Here is the Plus firmware if you wanted to look at it as well
     

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