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Solved First Layer - Gaps Between Lines

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by MMP13, Sep 28, 2015.

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  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I will take a peek :)
    Thanks.
     
    #21 mark tomlinson, Sep 30, 2015
  2. c. West

    c. West Member

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    No no thank you.

    Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk
     
    #22 c. West, Sep 30, 2015
  3. Tom C

    Tom C New Member

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    alright, so this is my question, I am using mattercontrol as a reference for this question. r1plus just got it a couple of weeks ago. PLA prints perfectly with no changes from the PLA profile sent with the ROBO version of MC. the abs profile is another story. I am experiencing the same problem. I do not want to change firmware so I tink I will just do it in the settings for ABS. if I want my Z to be lower I need to set my z offset positive or negative? I assume this is the latest version of the marlin firmware, as I had to download it to enable my graphics controller, which works great out of the box.

    Tom C
     
    #23 Tom C, Sep 30, 2015
  4. c. West

    c. West Member

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    First of all, ABS isn't real easy to get honed in well. It's rather finicky with temps of the bed and extrusion. Not to mention the elements on the RoBo bed don't heat real evenly, adding to the issues. As far as Z offset goes, haven't really played with it but an easy test would be to adjust it .5mm or so one way and see what it does. That should tell you how its set up because its a kinda big adjustment.

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    #24 c. West, Sep 30, 2015
  5. c. West

    c. West Member

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    Try PETG, been using it a couple days now and its pretty nice stuff.

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    #25 c. West, Sep 30, 2015
  6. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    On the Robo, regardless of flavor, z-offset is always negative with the current official firmware. It is just degrees of negative that you are dealing with. I believe, by default, MatterControl sets M565 at Z-1.0 mm in the startup script. I do not use MatterControl so I can't help you find that setting. If you want the hotend closer to the bed, you simply decrease the offset. So a setting of Z-0.8 would result in 0.2 mm closer than Z-1.0. Adjust in small increments.
     
    #26 WheresWaldo, Oct 1, 2015
  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @c. West

    I did a file compare with the +PLUS firmware and the R1 and other than the few stupid things Robo has done with every firmware, there is only one change between the two. The line that contains
    Code:
    #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {80,80,2560,723.32}
    in the R1 code was changed to
    Code:
    #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {80,80,800,723.32}
    in the +PLUS code.
     
    #27 WheresWaldo, Oct 1, 2015
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  8. c. West

    c. West Member

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    Awesome thank you for looking at that.

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    #28 c. West, Oct 1, 2015
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That totally confirms what I saw and makes sense. They swapped to the new threaded rods and steppers.
     
    #29 mark tomlinson, Oct 1, 2015
  10. c. West

    c. West Member

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    Yeah as I've seen it was an incremental upgrade on the production one right? Or did it never really get added besides the kit until the Plus came out?

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    #30 c. West, Oct 1, 2015
  11. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    I didn't get added until the Plus came out. It is one of the best upgrades that I did on my printer. E3D v6 is probably number 1. Maybe number 1 tied with the new threaded rods. Hex is good if you don't plan on swapping nozzle sizes a lot or running bowden. Hex is a pain in the ass to work on if you need to do maintenance on it.
     
    #31 jbigler1986, Oct 1, 2015
  12. c. West

    c. West Member

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    Yeah I have the Plus and still did the V6 upgrade. Even with ABS and pla it just prints better than the hex with no extra work. Been using PETG now and that stuff is pretty nifty

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    #32 c. West, Oct 1, 2015
  13. Luke

    Luke New Member

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    Ok so I had this issue. Not sure if its fixed yet but just figured I'd answer for anyone else looking to solve this issue. I'm assuming you're using matterslice? In the pre print printer settings, you'll find an input that says "z offset" Your print head is printing to far away from the bed so you need to lower the z offset. By default it should be set to1. Just lower it by .1mm at a time, while printing calibration boxes, until you're satisfied with the first layer. You don't really want to adjust it by more that .1mm at a time because you run the risk of jamming your extruder by smashing your printhead into the bed and clogging it with filament. Anyways, once you get down to a z offset of around .8-.6mm it should be printing perfectly.
     
    #33 Luke, Oct 5, 2015
  14. MMP13

    MMP13 New Member

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    So yes, this has been answered and the issue was the z-offset. Not sure why there is no much play in this but I have it set at 0 right now and it is printing nearly perfectly. I could probably stand lower it .1mm more but that is ok as it is right now. I am running a big job and it is working very well so I don't want to mess with any of the settings until I am done with this job.

    Thank you all very much for your help.

    Matt
     
    #34 MMP13, Oct 19, 2015
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  15. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Hey @MMP13, just for giggles, see if there is any play in the hotend. Of course do this while it's off, but try to wiggle the nozzle back and forth. Mine had a lot of slop in the carriage so the extruder actually moved around about .125". That could account for Z Offset that doesn't stay rock steady. Tightening the two M3 screws that hold the hotend in the extruder fixed it for me.
     
    #35 WheresWaldo, Oct 19, 2015
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