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Unresolved Flex filament, won't feed.

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by joea, Feb 1, 2023.

  1. joea

    joea Active Member

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    Robo R1 E3dv6 hot end.. Ninjaflex-TPU , black.

    Prints start out OK but pretty soon the filament, which is pretty flexy, stops feeding through to the print head as if jammed and starts wrapping around the outside of the hobbed bolt.

    This happens if I keep the print head at temperature and just extrude filament,say 100mm or even less.
    if I unwrap it and push it down the tube,it will flow out the nozzle. Tried up to 10 degrees hotter, no change.

    Not sure if the issue is the filament getting stuck in the tube/nozzle, catching on the edge of the tube, or, this is just not gonna work due to the design of the drive mechanism

    This is my second attempt to work with flex filament, had the same problem last time, now that I think about it.

    Any one printed with NinjaFlex -TPU successfully on Robo?
     
  2. fred3d

    fred3d Member

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    I recall converting a similar printer and part of the installation was to miter/chamfer the short piece of PTFE tubing. You may wish to check the exit path of the hobbed bolt to ensure that the tube hasn't twisted. Also I've considered creating the chamfers a bit higher than the opening in the carriage, to minimize the type of trouble you are experiencing.
     
  3. joea

    joea Active Member

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    I think I tried that and the filament still found a way to sqjueeze out. I got a bit frustrated trying to chamfer that tubing, so should try again. Thinking I might try shaping it differently this time.

    Not sure I get the "exit path of the hobbed bolt" thing, but will check the alignment again and PTFE tube length and shape.
     
  4. joea

    joea Active Member

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    I do find a few things.

    The PTFE tube is square cut and end 3mm-4mm below the contact "patch" of the roller.

    The roller was a bit oft to one side of the "apex" of the hobbed bolt "teeth" Seems the washers on either side of the bolt are of slightly different thickness, and swapping them resolved that.

    There is (a lot?) of looseness in the pressure roller "swing arm" where the long thin bolt goes through the carriage perhaps allowing it to shift around as it rotates while filament feeds.

    That last bit I recall now I attempted to resolve some time back but that "quick fix" has proven inadequate. A more permanent fix is in order. Perhaps a thicker bolt and a bit of careful machining might be enough.

    Any suggestions, known fix?
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There are a number of threads on this (NinjaFlex / TPU) and really the ultimate solution is to use a FlexiStruder. However you can with minor edits suggested in those threads (at least some of which you seem to have already found) get it working most of the time. Did you slow down the travel speed and feed rate for the TPU? That is a must.


    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1099016

    There are a lot of variations on the FlexiStruder
     
  6. joea

    joea Active Member

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    I'll try to find those threads.

    I did slow down the print speed to 30mm/sec max, but did not specifically slow the feed rate, which I believe you mean to be the filament feed rate, which I thought was computed by factoring in nozzle size, speed, etc. But will look for a specific setting.

    Mean time I made a few small alterations, adjusting the hobbed bolt so the "apex" of the arc is aligned more closely to the PTFE tube, making a new PTFE tube that is cut at an angle to just clear the teeth on the bolt and the pressure roller. That alone may help as the filament always squeezed out in the same direction, consistent with the misaligment of the hobbed bolt.

    A plus is this spurred me to work on the idle Big Box again, getting it "almost fully commissioned" but then finding Matter Control cannot talk to it properly. Again. The odd thing, to me, is Arduino has no trouble at all finding it and uploading FW.

    Anyway, manually using the BB and looking at changes I needed to make to the firmware, discovered some changes I thought to make on the Robo, namely, quieting the "chirp" from the LCD button and reversing the action of the direction, to make CW move "+" and CCW move "-"; This led me to the discovery I can no longer compile the Robo FW.

    Sigh.
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    30 is too much for mine. 15 is closer to where you need to be -- yea, creepin' ;)
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The firmware can be compiled -- you need to review the changes (there is a zip file with mods to the source) listed in the FAQ and worst case you downnload and use an old Arduino compiler.
     
  9. joea

    joea Active Member

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    Oh, I'm sure it can be. That's the thing, I compiled the currently installed firmware on this very same PC and uploaded it, some time ago. Oh well, the search must go on, but that can wait for my filament issues. One must remain flexible after all. I'll get my coat.
     
  10. joea

    joea Active Member

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    I just discovered a little "hitch in the gitalong" of a bit of hard non flex filament I inserted down the PTFE tube, as a final test before attempting to print flex.

    In other words, it inserts freely until it "catches" a good ways in and requires extra force to "snap out of it" and bottom out about 9mm further down the hole. Seems I have a problem at one of the mechanical transitions along the filament path?
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, probably where the heatsink and the heatbreak join inside the hotend. Some hotends (like the E3D) include a short piece of Poly (PTFE) heat resistant tubing that slides down into the hotend to smooth that transition. The stock one does not. You may need to remove and disassemble the hotend to see what is causing the catch and smooth it back out.

    https://help.robo3d.com/hc/en-us/articles/115000723592-Clogged-Hotend-R1-Plus

    that shows you how to remove the hotend



    That one shows you how to assemble the hotend and disassembly -- is the reverse :)

    You do not need to teardown the heater core and thermistor, just the heatbreak, and heat sink to insure there is no place for the filament to catch in the internal tube
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    It can also be that the heatbreak is clogged or partially clogged but tearing it down will tell that tale and you can heat the heatbreak tube with a lighter and melt out any material clogged in it. You can probably use a torch if you want (it is steel) but NEVER use a torch on the brass nozzles unless you want a small puddle of brass.


    *stainless steel or titanium nozzles? Torch away.
     
  13. joea

    joea Active Member

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    Before I go down the path of tearing it down, the filament does extrude manually and at the start of prints. I tend to think, perhaps wrongly, that at that point, the filament is "liquid" and should not be affected.

    Maybe first try changing the filament feed (ratio ?) to slow feed rate?
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The filament is solid until after the heatbreak :)
    If it feeds ok once loaded it is not a crisis -- it may affect the feed rate, or cause the odd jam but it will still print
     

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