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Gap between passes on solid layers using s3d

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by supercazzola, Nov 4, 2017.

  1. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Anyone have ideas what is causing this? Never had this on my first R2. The guys at Robo said they tuned the extruder (steps per mm for extruder were dialed in by hand) but that shouldn’t affect the space between passes. Zoom in and hopefully you can see what I’m referring to. Thank you

    [​IMG]
     
  2. jwmueller

    jwmueller Active Member

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    Can you share your FFF file with us so we can take a look? I would send you mine but it has a bunch of printers with many processes. LOL

    Edit: I take that back play with this one. Please post yours when you can. I want to see you infill settings and extrusion settings.
     

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  3. Kilrah

    Kilrah Well-Known Member

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    Simply looks like not enough material, adjust the extrusion multiplier a bit (you can try to increase flow on the printer itself during print to find the right value).
    Regardless of extruder calibration it's common to have some variation between filament types and spools that can need up to +/- 10% adjustment or so.
     
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  4. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Here is mine from S3D techs
     

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  5. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    I'll give it a shot. In fact, I have never used the printer controls during printing, so this will be my first. I was always a bit confused what I could do from the front panel once a print started.

    Thank you
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Bingo. Even two spools from the same vendor of the same filament can vary a bit (they may not be the same batch or age).
    Usually there is not a huge amount of variance between spools, but there can be :)

    You can do an extruder calibration to dial it in if you like*, but on a machine that can auto-update the firmware it is less useful (I just don't have mine doing automatic updates).


    *Tom Sanlander had an excellent video on this I can link you to if you need. Personally I'd stick with doing as @Kilrah suggested until you are certain that sorts it.
     
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  7. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Mark,
    Allen (chief engineer for R2 at Robo) dialed my in personally, but I’d like to see the video if you have the link for Tom’s video.
    I’ll play around a bit more, and experiment - that is part of the fun. The G-code on the SD card doesn’t have the issue, and I changed laptops so I lost my previous changes to the baseline S3D FFF file I was using.
    Thanks to everyone who responded. This is an amazing community !


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  9. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Looks under extruded or irony want to be that guy....but.... You'll find better results doing it yourself. Don't trust others settings. Look at all the work us users did to the r1 series after engineering was done with them ;)
     
  10. jwmueller

    jwmueller Active Member

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    Ok on your factory file, change:

    Under Extruder Tab
    Extrusion Multiplier to 1.00

    Under the Layer Tab
    I would probably change the Frist Layer Height to 100% (for Medium presets) Edit: Since we are normally setting the zheight during calibration to .2mm, you will want the First Layer Height in S3D to give you .2mm on the first layer. If you are going to print at .1mm, then you set the first layer to 200%.

    Infill Tab
    I would go to 50% on the Interior Fill Percentage
    30% on Outline Overlap

    Under my scripts tab I have Starting Script with: ;No start code in Simplify3D. Start code is in the Robo OctoPrint settings GCode Script

    It is curious that yours has code in it, seems to match what the machine is already doing in the firmware.

    Otherwise your settings are pretty close to mine, I have different retractions and z-hop but since you are running PLA you can try it without changing those settings.

    Did you level the bed again after shipping, and run the Z height again?
     
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  11. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Thanks for the tips. I will make the changes.
    And yes, I did the bed leveling and z-offset, fine tune after it arrived (a few times)



    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
     
  12. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Made suggested changes @jwmueller and the gap between the passes seems to go away for the most part, except where the passes are short in length. Also not enough material getting to the border from the interior passes. [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I’ll keep playing - but if anything jumps out at you, please let me know


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     
  13. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    If your bed is not perfectly flat it can exhibit those particular types of artifacts. The spot where the bed is ever so slightly lower will appear to not fill in as much. If you decide to jump up and down and yell "My bed is not flat, my bed is not flat" (make sure you do this in the voice of Chicken Little for effect), please note that there is not a single consumer 3D printer bed in the world that is completely flat unless it is milled flat. There are always variations.

    To mitigate things like this Marlin (the firmware many consumer 3D printers use, including Robo) incorporates various leveling schemes to solve problems like this. Current Robo does not employ any of them. So your next option is to either live with it or ever so slightly increase your home offset. The first option would be my preferred method, the second would make the sections that are already perfect, less so.
     
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  14. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Why do you go so high on the infill percentage ? How does that help with my original issue on the outside layers?
     

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