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Unresolved Glass bed Upgrades

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by 3DDP, Sep 18, 2016.

  1. 3DDP

    3DDP New Member

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    Any Upgrades for the heated glass bed for the Robo 3D R1 Plus? All my Robo's finally have lost their minds, and don't auto level correctly, and wires and hardware appear to be correct and intact. It's like the Glass bed has warped. The front right has a very different Z height compared to the front left, the right rear and the left rear. Even on a clean bed, that's less then four months old. I'll start out with a nice layer, then the hot end mashes into the bed.

    I'm finally got the Z offset in matter control and simplify3D averaged out so I can slice and print from either of my Robo's without too much worry, but I still have issues.

    Seems like the bed needs more support to not have so much flex and to level out.
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Using the extruder to sample the bed is a rather heavyweight tool and does cause some bed flex.
    The bed can get more flexible due to wear of the bearings or loose linear rod mounts (make sure the screws are in tight).

    Just the way it is designed. The R2 has a completely different mechanism if the pictures are to be believed.
     
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  3. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    I just manually level then pause while printing the first level and do a fine adjustment while the print in paused.

    I adjust by twisting the the threaded rods. Usually a very small adustment to raise the nozzle on one side is all that is needed.

    At this point I let the auto-level do it's thing then after the print starts I do my minor adjusting. I'm experimenting with commenting out the Gcode auto level command but for some reason when I do that the z ends up unresponsive to any change in the gcode for offset. Confusing but not a show stopper.

    I put a steel straight edge on my bed and it is bowed a little bit.
     
  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    @Rigmarol You will really benefit from MESH leveling as it can account for the bow in your bed.
     
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  5. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    Looking forward to it.

    Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk
     
  6. Ocsff

    Ocsff Active Member

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    check that your bed mounting magnets are seated all the way. Most common cause of out of level bed that I have found.
     
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  7. 3DDP

    3DDP New Member

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    Thanks, It's also the bed needs to actually be supported better as the cheap mold injected plastic bows, and the glass bed will actually flex on auto level, on BOTH of my Robo 3D R1 Plus'. I'll 3D print better replacement parts, when the warranty runs out to replace all the mold injected plastic parts that have weakened, and maybe even improve or design a bed support for the length on both sides.
     
  8. 3DDP

    3DDP New Member

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    I do that already, and I have to do that every time, but when you use them for 95% business purpose, time, and perfection is valuable.
     
  9. Rigmarol

    Rigmarol Well-Known Member

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    I don't make money with mine so I understand your need. Best of luck.
     
  10. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Like @WheresWaldo said earlier that Mesh Leveling will be your best friend for compensating a warped bed. I switched over to using an IR height sensor for probing my bed with ABL instead of the nozzle and no more issues with first layer. Just hit print and it goes. Before I had to worry about the snot drops left on the bed and the x axis caps getting stuck or out of wack...too much of a PITA. Now I never worry about it. I haven't gone to mesh leveling yet, but might someday.
     

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