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Glass build plate for C2

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by colton81, Mar 11, 2017.

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  1. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    im in the process of replacing my warped plastic bed with a glass bed. As of now im only using standard 2.5mm glass from lowes. Im curious if anyone has done this and if so did it work.good? My only concern is if the glass will break if the hot end jams into the bed? Does anyone have pictures of theirs if they did do this i would like to see how you did it.
     
    #1 colton81, Mar 11, 2017
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You are fine with that. Several people use that (myself included) on the stock R1/R1+ beds to protect the borosilicate glass from chipping. They only use Borosilicate* because the bed is heated, but that is (sort of) pointless given the amount of heat involved :)

    With no bed heat you will be fine.

    EDIT: Just treat it with the caution a pane of plate glass deserves and you will be fine



    *borosilicate glass has different thermal properties and is less likely to crack or shatter due to thermal stress... think "Pyrex"
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, Mar 11, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2017
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If this were a cooking hobby we would just call it "pyrex", but because it is 3D printing we make it more obscure :)
     
    #3 mark tomlinson, Mar 11, 2017
  4. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Also "Pyrex®" hasn't used borosilicate glass for quite some time. Pyrex sold in the United States is made of tempered soda-lime glass.
     
    #4 WheresWaldo, Mar 11, 2017
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  5. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Ok perfect well here is my first test piece so far. Now i know Robo has stated it needs to have a dark background for the sensor to register it properly but i decided to test it without anything and im assuming it moght be picking up the metal plate underneath. But after only spending 10 mins to dial in the z offset i got alot closer then i have before. The Adhesion was amazing i had to spray a little hairspray on ii but it works so much better then the black painters tape they supply. As far as how it looks. This printer is displayed in my livingroom so i want it to look good. I love the look of glass so i decided to make it its own bed with nothing under it other then the 4 washers to place it in the correct spot every time. I still need to dial it in more and i moght look into adding springs on the bolts to make it easier to level the bed. Also going to try frosting the bottom of the plate to help with the sensor.
     

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    #5 colton81, Mar 11, 2017
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  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Look terrific. If color really were a problem paint the bottom of the glass.
    Frosting should be fine as well.
     
    #6 mark tomlinson, Mar 11, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2017
  7. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Well the glass plate is working great but back to the issues with the Z offset not staying the same. Trying to figure out why the autobed leveling is off on every print
     
    #7 colton81, Mar 16, 2017
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That usually means something mechanically is shifting/moving.
     
    #8 mark tomlinson, Mar 16, 2017
  9. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Yea thats what i was thinking. When i cancel a print i hear a clicking noise and the bed doesnt move so im thinking the end stop is telling it that it has hit the bottom. Also i didnt really notice until yesterday but when i do finish a print the bed will go all the way down but not hit the endstop it stops right above it i cant use the controls on the touchscreen or from the ip address to move it down more i have to home it again to get it to go all the way down and hit the end stop. Which adds more of a reason im thinking that either the endstop has a short in it or theres a software glitch in the system
     
    #9 colton81, Mar 16, 2017
  10. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Through cura do you have a start and end Gcode because on mine it is blank
     
    #10 colton81, Mar 16, 2017
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I don't normally use Cura to slice.
    I was only using it for testing the dual extrusion bits on the C2.
    I can get you the start and end GCode from Simplify of you want it.
     
    #11 mark tomlinson, Mar 16, 2017
  12. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    Yea if you dont mind
     
    #12 colton81, Mar 16, 2017
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    For the startup GCode I left it entirely blank. OctoPrint adds some stuff, but that is C2 specific and defined by Robo so I left it alone.
    The the ending GCode all I have is this:

    M104 S0 ; make sure the extuder is turned off.
    M140 S0 ; make sure the bed is turned off.
    M84 ; shut down motors.
     
    #13 mark tomlinson, Mar 16, 2017
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The R1 and R1+ needed some specific startup GCode for the autoleveling, but with the C2 (using OctoPrint) you don't want to do that as it just duplicates what OctoPrint is doing (at least some of it is duplication).
     
    #14 mark tomlinson, Mar 16, 2017
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You could get fancy and tear apart OctoPrint and customize the heck out of it. For normal use I would say just let it be :)​
     
    #15 mark tomlinson, Mar 16, 2017
  16. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Surprised you don't add ending gcode to move the bed out of the way after finishing a print or canceling or failing for that matter.
     
    #16 WheresWaldo, Mar 16, 2017
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The bed automagically moves down when done on the C2 -- again something I expect OctoPrint is adding.
     
    #17 mark tomlinson, Mar 16, 2017
  18. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I should probably look at the code myself, instead of asking questions, like I have so much spare time.
     
    #18 WheresWaldo, Mar 16, 2017
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well, let me add this ... when a print fails it does NOT retract the bed so .. that can be an annoyance :)

    I do need to make time to fiddle with it more, but have not even had a chance to print with it in the past week or two.
    When I get the time I am totally going to get in there and customize What OctoPrint is doing (or not doing in some cases). I spent all my spare time last weekend rebuilding a broken printer and just didn't get much play time on this one.
     
    #19 mark tomlinson, Mar 16, 2017
  20. colton81

    colton81 Active Member

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    You know ive noticed when a print is finished that the hotend stays where its at for a few seconds causing it to warp and melt that section of the part. Could that be caused by octoprint not moving the hotend immediately out of the way?
     
    #20 colton81, Mar 24, 2017
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