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Good Build Plate I've Found for certain hard to print filaments

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by DavidR, Nov 20, 2020.

  1. DavidR

    DavidR Member

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    I can highly recommend this polypropylene/epoxy build surface available on amazon for the following filaments:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JFY2LPN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


    Polypropylene
    DOW OBC
    PVDF

    The first two tend to work very well with Magigoo PP Adhesive and the PVDF works well with Magigoo HT

    The only down side is that it DOES NOT WORK with the IR auto leveling (this can be disabled by putting a semicolon before the G36 command in the pre-printing commands on octoprint), so you want to make sure your platform is very level. I wouldn't use the automated leveling assistance program (the one called "bed leveling", I would do it manually and choose 4 points that extend only to the part of the platform that will actually be printed on. Use as thin as paper as possible when performing this task.

    These filaments are extremely good in terms of chemical resistance. In fact, you would be hard pressed to find a chemical environment in which at least one of these three filaments would not be suitable.

    The plate itself can be secured with binder clips. I actually just used a double-side adhesive to stick it on a flex-plate (more an OCD thing given this build plate is not flexible.)

    Matterhackers makes a build plate as well that can be used but one can run into problems with over-adhesion. Plus they are frequently out-of-stock.
     
    Lance Weston likes this.
  2. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Have a look at this procedure:

    http://community.robo3d.com/index.php?threads/leveling-the-r2-print-bed.23492/
     
  3. DavidR

    DavidR Member

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    I'll try it but the way the plate is setup its very hard to get the middle of the bed to line up with the 4 corners. Really you would want a 3 point system for tramming the bed so the system isn't overdetermined.
     
  4. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    As the print bed approaches a true level, you need to be careful with adjusting the corners. For glass plate surface, if the four corners are correct, the middle will automatically be correct.
     
  5. DavidR

    DavidR Member

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    Its not glass. I'll try but my experience with the design has been even when all four corners of the heated bed are identical, there is a slight bend in the bed itself that would most likely extend to the plate above.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That was one reason they added the autoleveling -- to help account for uneven bed surfaces.
    Manually you just get it as close as you can and live with it (or use autoleveling after manually leveling it)
     
  7. tkoco

    tkoco - -.- --- -.-. ---
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    Correct. Just don't use G36 coding. G28 followed by G29 works better if you wish to use auto-leveling.
     
  8. DavidR

    DavidR Member

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    Yes. In this instance though the IR leveling won't work (the plate must scatter the light chaotically), it just drills into the bed. So my argument here is that the Robo R2 tramming/leveling engineering is such that if you are not going to be using auto-leveling it is best to level the bed locally (just the area being printed on) instead of globally (the 4 corners).
     

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