1. Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!

Heated Glass Bed for the C2?

Discussion in 'Mods and Upgrades' started by SoLongSidekick, Mar 18, 2019.

  1. SoLongSidekick

    SoLongSidekick Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2014
    Messages:
    220
    Likes Received:
    68
    So I've seen a few threads discussing adding a heated bed to this printer, and I just had a thought. Would I have to do anything other than getting an appropriate heater, attaching it to the right sized glass sheet, then using a high-temp epoxy to attach 4 nuts or similar in the correct spaces to catch the end caps on the metal plate below? I mean anything with the right size hole in the middle would work right?

    I miss the heated glass bed on my R1, and if it's that simple to add one I see no reason to try to go aluminum. Would painting the bottom of the glass black with enamel be enough for the IR sensor to still work?
     
  2. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,672
    Likes Received:
    2,292
    Basically yes. The hard part - adjusting the screen to reflect the heatbed. Possible to tweak the R2 firmware to work for the C2 but don’t know enough of it is open to successfully accomplish everything
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,530
    Likes Received:
    7,061
    painting it black would help, but I am not sure if the glass surface would matter. Worth a try
     
  4. SoLongSidekick

    SoLongSidekick Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2014
    Messages:
    220
    Likes Received:
    68
    After attempting to use Lokbuild last night I'm definitely going to have to paint the glass black. It's orange, and caused the IR sensor to send a wildly inaccurate mesh to the printer. Doing a ring z axis offest test had the back of the ring printing perfectly and the front printing ~3mm off the surface of the bed.
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  5. SoLongSidekick

    SoLongSidekick Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2014
    Messages:
    220
    Likes Received:
    68
    Any idea what spec of power supply I should upgrade when adding a 24v 120w heated bed? I assume the stock power supply can't handle the extra juice.
     
  6. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,672
    Likes Received:
    2,292
    the power supply on the C2 is just enough to power it as is. Whatever size (wattage) heater you buy your new power supply will need to cover the original wattage of the unit plus whatever (120 judging by your post above) that new heat bed wattage is (plus some so you have a "buffer")

    More is better.
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  7. SoLongSidekick

    SoLongSidekick Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2014
    Messages:
    220
    Likes Received:
    68
    ...right. That's why I was asking what specs I should go for when selecting a new power supply. My heater will be 120 watt most likely. Has anyone found a good source for one?
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,530
    Likes Received:
    7,061
    Well, the C2 is 19vdc, not sure what wattage it is stock (but a look on the "brick" in the A/C line will tell the tale).
    I'd say add 120w to whatever the brick is rated at and that will leave you safe.

    I can go look at the brick later if someone else doesn't get a chance to check it before then
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,530
    Likes Received:
    7,061
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,530
    Likes Received:
    7,061
    OK, so the C2 uses 19vdc at 4.74A

    19 x 4.74 = 90w

    your new heater = 120w

    90w + 120w + MyOverHeadSafetyFactor (30w) = 240w

    This one should work (but you will have to convert the tip on the brick to work with the C2, cut them off, splice on the right one with some sanity checking of polarity) . Search around for 19vdc at 250w there are some others out there (19v at 13 amps essentially).

    https://smile.amazon.com/4-Pin-Adapter-Group-FSP250-RBAN2-FSP250RBAN2/dp/B07J1R1C17


    (your heater is 1/3 more wattage than the entire printer uses, just sayin') :)
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,530
    Likes Received:
    7,061
    And make sure the wiring to the heater comes off of the output of the power supply with its own wiring and doesn't depend on any internal (expecting 4.74amp max) wiring :)
     
  12. SoLongSidekick

    SoLongSidekick Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2014
    Messages:
    220
    Likes Received:
    68
    The C2 has the exact same electronics as the R2, doesn't it?
     
  13. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2015
    Messages:
    6,672
    Likes Received:
    2,292
    Yes as far as we know
     
  14. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,530
    Likes Received:
    7,061
    The electronics certainly look the same :) Not sure the wiring is any different either, but I can't vouch for that.
     
  15. SoLongSidekick

    SoLongSidekick Active Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2014
    Messages:
    220
    Likes Received:
    68
    So I found a piece of borosilicate glass 150mm x 150mm on Amazon with polished edges for less than 20 bucks, found a 120mm x 120mm 120w heater pad on Amazon for less than 20 bucks, and even stumbled onto a 19V 240w power supply on Amazon for $50. So I'm definitely going to add a heated glass bed to my C2. I already have the glass while I save up for the heater and PS, but am rethinking how I am going to attach the glass.

    I was going to just use high temp epoxy and stick 4 washers in the corners pretty much exactly how the plastic bed works. But then I figured I should install some real bed leveling while I'm at it. That way I don't have to dick around with shims. My only other printer was the R1+, so I've never had a 4-point bed leveling system. Would I be able to epoxy a nut instead of a washer to the bottom of the glass, then use a longer bolt (with no end nut) up from the metal tray, stick a spring in between the metal and glass, and be able to turn the bolt to raise/lower the bed? I really don't want to drill holes in the glass.
     
  16. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,530
    Likes Received:
    7,061
    Yea, that would work.
     
  17. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    Messages:
    21,530
    Likes Received:
    7,061
    You could also just replace the plastic bed with aluminum and add the heater core onto the bottom of that :)
    Whichever is easier for you.
     
  18. tkoco

    tkoco Administrator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    May 7, 2018
    Messages:
    278
    Likes Received:
    131
    Gentlemen, please be aware that the leveling sensor will read through the glass to whatever happens to be below it. So, 2 solutions:

    1) put a sheet of Buildtak on top of the glass if you intend to continue using the auto-leveling routine.

    2) disable the auto-leveling routine - comment out the G36 code in the Octoprint start script and insert G28 (Home the platform)

    OR
    3) do both!
     
  19. tkoco

    tkoco Administrator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    May 7, 2018
    Messages:
    278
    Likes Received:
    131
    If you don't mind, please document the steps and materials used to accomplish your project. Then post it under the Projects area of this forum. Others might be interested in how it is done.
     
    mark tomlinson likes this.
  20. tkoco

    tkoco Administrator
    Staff Member

    Joined:
    May 7, 2018
    Messages:
    278
    Likes Received:
    131
    BTW, Amazon sells thermal epoxy - glue which transfers heat.
     

Share This Page