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Solved Horizontal smooth threads uneven...an issue?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Rasterize, Feb 18, 2015.

  1. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That smooth rod looks like it is off (to the right of the video frame) with a lean.
    The lean is what is doing you in.

    On review.. one of the two is leaning... if that is the threaded rod it might not be as bad a deal.

    DO a one-on-one tech support conference with Robo and get them to look at it.
     
  2. Jacob Kirsch

    Jacob Kirsch Member

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    Measure the distance between the vertical smooth rods at he top and bottom. They should be the same. I don't see how they couldn't be with the latest design.

    I almost wonder if the X carriage rods aren't in all the way. Anyone with a current R1 have this measurement? To explain, if the Z carriage is wider than the vertical rods they run on, it would bind like this. Of course this will require adjusting the Z belt once fixed.
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The base/mount of the smooth rods might have come loose.
    Other than that I am drawing a blank as well.
     
  4. Rasterize

    Rasterize Member

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    Measurement of the distance between the smooth rods:
    Bottom: 11 7/8 inches
    Top: 12 1/4 inches
    :eek: So no, not exactly even.
    I also have an 8PM EST live support with Brian of Robo3D
    Anything else I need for that besides a webcam and a Skype account?
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Awesome.
     
  6. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    An ice cold beer and some patients. Tool set possibly.
     
  7. Rasterize

    Rasterize Member

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    Preparing for my tech call. Thought I'd share. X Smooth Rods.jpg Z Smooth Rods.jpg
    Square is not a word I would use here...
     
  8. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    The lid kinda helps with squareness.

    I trimmed my X rods a bit to get a more even span distance as well.
     
  9. Rasterize

    Rasterize Member

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    SOLVED!
    The call with RoBo3D went great! At first Robo Tech Brian thought that that my x motor carriage and the x idler had been warped during manufacturing. He also suggested I could try and twist it back into shape. That didn't sound so great to me so we started talking replacement parts. However during our conversation of weather I should get replacement parts or send it back to Amazon, I grabbed the x motor carriage and the x idler and tried twisting and pressing them together. They suddenly clicked together! I measured and the distances are even at 11.5 inches. The x rods now look even and there is no more bounce to the right side of the carriage assembly. Overall everything now looks "Square". A few test print revealed even output. Yeah! [​IMG]
    He even emailed me a new Cura profile they have been using at Robo. Works great. The biggest difference seem to be the stating gcode. Much shorter and simpler.
    I'm now happily starting back into printing upgrade parts and further tweaking. Thanks for everyones help!
     
    4 people like this.
  10. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    Would you mind sharing that Cura profile? I'm interested to see what settings they think are best.
     
  11. Rasterize

    Rasterize Member

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    I tried uploading it but it won't upload an ini file. Email me at srosema@gmail.com and I'll send you what I have.
     
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    rename it to xxxx.ini.txt
     
  13. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    Try that. If that doesn't work then I will shoot you an email.
     
  14. Rasterize

    Rasterize Member

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    Sorry guys. Don't work. Seem to be looking at file type not just the name.
     
  15. Mike Kelly

    Mike Kelly Volunteer

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    It's looking at the extension. If you renamesd it XXXX.txt.ini won't work. You need to do XXX.ini.txt where the extension is changed, not the file name.

    Or use dropbox or pastebin or something
     
  16. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    Just got the email. Looks like the only thing I need to change is the M565 Z-1 to Z-.07. My bottom layer wasn't really smashed with Z-1. I tried to go Z-1.3 but that made it not even stick to the bed.
     
  17. Rasterize

    Rasterize Member

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    Dropbox link to Robo3d profile here.
     
  18. Rasterize

    Rasterize Member

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    My M565 is Z-.8
    The lower the number (igroring the negative) the closer to the bed.
     
  19. jbigler1986

    jbigler1986 Active Member

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    That's what I thought too. Some one told me last night to do the opposite in the shoutbox though. No biggie. Got it all figured out. Got my Full Graphics Controller delivered today. Will be playing with that tonight as soon as I make the Mrs. happy of course.
     

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