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Hot end hits bed and carries on.

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by adam skinner, Apr 29, 2018.

  1. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    What Geof said. Agree 100%


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  2. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Want to laugh? My R2 has the buildtak flexplate with the logo on the upper surface. When I had the logo facing the front of the unit (nearest to the door of the R2), the G36 would always cause a crash into the bed. When I moved it 90 degrees (easy to do with the magnetic base of the flexplate) the crashing stopped. Tried to replicate it, and I can. So something about the placement of the logo and how it reflects or blocks IR is messing the probe at that one point.

    Long story short, the G36 command was commented out and replaced with the G28 and G29 and haven’t had a crash since.

    If only Robo would listen that G36 is causing more problems than good.




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  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I believe @Jerry RoBo 3D is on the job. The logo I could see happening if the IR cant distinguish the color/see it. Interesting, but yes the G28 has given zero crashes so far. I dont use the G29, I just level my bed to "good enough". Plus it starts faster :D you know ...savin those whole 30 secs lol.
     
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  4. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    I still want to venture into the UBL option, but feel like we should have a single step-by-step post, as a sticky. Right now, I know the instructions are out there in several posts / threads, but having all of the steps, and then common pitfalls in one post would be awesome and help folks to try out new stuff...




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  5. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    I tried the G36 for a bit, never saw any consistent results and no increase in precision over the existing leveling methods. When I switched my R1 to UBL and had fantastic and consistent results with it's problematic probing, it just made more sense to use the same scheme on the better built R2. I leveled once and adjusted (it took me about two hours total time). Since that time there has been zero need to level the bed again. It just works, I home (G28) and print, that is it. Printing starts up much faster. I dumped the priming line in the OctoPrint scripts since I use a skirt on all prints. The only thing that OctoPrint does now is present the print by moving the build plate down to 250 mm after the print is done. Since the OctoPrint script does not run the instant gcode is finished my slicer ending script moves the bed down 10 mm before that.
     
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  6. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Smart, and would avoid the hot nozzle from making a dimple in the finished product, right ?


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  7. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Exactly

    This is my entire ending script (commented)
    Code:
    G91 ; relative mode
    G1 Z10 ; move up 10 mm
    G90 ; absolute mode
    M106 S0 ; turn off cooling fan
    M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
    M84 ; disable motors
     
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  8. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Is it just something like this?

    G1 Z10 F300



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  9. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    See my post above, you need to put it into relative movement mode first, then you can move 10 otherwise your command alone will move it to position 10 mm, You really want to add 10 to the current location.
     
  10. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Yeah, sorry... was reading on a mobile device and missed the sample code...

    Thanks again for sharing it


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  11. Jerry RoBo 3D

    Jerry RoBo 3D Administrator
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    Yes we are working on it! I would really really love some data.

    @adam skinner would you be able to run the quick tests I prescribed?

    @supercazzola Can you also run the same test I prescribed with the logo on your flex bed in the front position. (check page 1 of this thread)
     
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  12. supercazzola

    supercazzola Active Member

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    Jerry, I think I provided that when I opens up the bug report. Got tired of making dimples in my new buildtak. Check if you require more data than I already performed.


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  13. drbanks

    drbanks Active Member

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    Interesting.

    I recently installed the buildtak flexplate and at first, everything went fine. But on Saturday, it started consistently crashing in the left front on the G36. After a few remedial BS steps (restart, cycle power restart, etc), I tried repositioning the bed and it got through the first 6 probes ok, then crashed in the left rear point.

    At this point, I angrily commented out the G36 and have been printing fine since.

    Mebbe I should add the G28/G29?
     
  14. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    If your printing fine I'd leave it be :D (thats just me though).
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Don't get caught in a cycle of doing stuff to the printer if the prints are acceptable/usable.

    Il meglio è nemico del bene -- Orlando Pescetti (I know Voltaire is the usual reference)

    Best translated as :

    Perfect is the enemy of good
     
    #35 mark tomlinson, May 7, 2018
    Last edited: May 7, 2018
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  16. drbanks

    drbanks Active Member

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    Yah, I'm sort of OCD about doing the 4-point bed calibration, especially since the vibrations from printing keep causing the front right screw to come undone and fall to the floor of the print chamber. It's just a little way to remind me that some preventive maintenance is due.

    Three points of my naivete when buying the printer:

    1. Since it looked mostly enclosed, I thought it was going to be fully enclosed
    2. I had a rather optimistic notion of what auto-bed leveling is, and while I can appreciate the mesh system or whatever the heck the printer's doing when it's not running the Z screw all the way up to 0, I seem to get decent enough results doing the same 'ol manual level
    3. I thought a removable bed meant removable flex plate. HAH! I've since done that myself, albeit with some fallout.
    I have learned so much from owning this printer for 5 months, but maybe not quite the things that Robo would have me learn.
     
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  17. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Purple Loctite on those threads will stop that and should still let you adjust :D
     
  18. drbanks

    drbanks Active Member

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    As I'm fond of saying, any plan that involves me picking up a screwdriver is inherently flawed. So, it follows that I did not know of things like Loctite, but the title does seem to imply its function.

    Wait'll I try to replace the nozzle. Hilarity WILL ensue. (I have a spare hot end)
     
  19. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    :D I remember being much more afraid of working on the machine. That goes away after a few times of being in its guts. Head up and all that. I broke many things before I learned, honestly most people stop breaking things long before I did :D.
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Only two things to remember there is:
    1) do it hot (230-250c is usually fine)
    2) Use two wrenches so that you hold the heater block with one and loosen the nozzle with the other.

    and I suppose the old adage about "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey" might come into play (remember that is as you would look UP on the face of the nozzle).
     
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