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Solved Hotend wires came off

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Michael J. Hammel, May 9, 2020.

  1. Michael J. Hammel

    Michael J. Hammel New Member

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    I removed the hotend to pull some stuck filament. I got the filament out but when I went to put the hotend back in some of the wires came off. It looks like they were previously soldered so I'm not sure exactly where they went. I can find no pictures showing where they should go or information on how to reattach them - I thought there might be a guide somewhere for changing out the hotend, but then this is a really old model so maybe it's not that easy?

    I'm using a stock Robo 3D R1 Plus. Photos of the problem:
    1. Hotend, with missing wires.
    [​IMG]
    1. The broken wires.
    [​IMG]
    Anyone know how I should reattach these?
     
    #1 Michael J. Hammel, May 9, 2020
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is (or was) the thermistor.
    You need to replace it.
    If it is an R1+ then it uses a canister style thermistor (those wires were tucked into a metal sleeve that was in the heater block). You can get them from PartsBuilt.com: https://www.partsbuilt.com/r1-thermistor-robo-3d/

    if it was an R1 (not the R1+) then the thermistor was tucked under a screw that held it in contact with the heater block (and there would have been a black rubber boot around the whole heater block)
     
    #2 mark tomlinson, May 9, 2020
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The thermistor is what reads the temperature of the hotend. Without that you are not printing...
     
    #3 mark tomlinson, May 9, 2020
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If it was an E3D you can get the parts just about anywhere :)
     
    #4 mark tomlinson, May 9, 2020
  5. Michael J. Hammel

    Michael J. Hammel New Member

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    It's an R1+.
    If you look at the image you can see the metal end in place. Is there a unique way to get it out other than pulling?
     
    #5 Michael J. Hammel, May 9, 2020
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That really is the only option you have at this point. If you have a small torch or a lighter you can heat the block a bit before trying to free it from the block -- that will help it come out. There is also a set screw that is usually threaded in to hold it in place so loosen that as well.
     
    #6 mark tomlinson, May 9, 2020
  7. Michael J. Hammel

    Michael J. Hammel New Member

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    Yup, that was it. The set screw needed to be loosened. Fortunately there was a hex wrench that came with the printer to make that possible. So it's out, and I'll order a replacement.

    Thanks for the help!!
     
    #7 Michael J. Hammel, May 9, 2020
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  8. Henradrie

    Henradrie New Member

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    I had success replacing the thermistor on my r1+ by connecting another thermistor up and manually pressing it against the heater block so it recorded temperature. I was then able to pull the bad one out.

    The new one didn't quite fit snugly in the hole so I had to melt some petg into the hole to hold it in. It worked until it didn't.

    Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk
     
    #8 Henradrie, May 13, 2020
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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can wrap kapton tape around it to hold it to the heater block, that is how the original J-Head did it :)
     
    #9 mark tomlinson, May 13, 2020

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