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How fast can we go?

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Bd182, Feb 11, 2019.

  1. Bd182

    Bd182 Member

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    I print at 60mm/sec. Makerbot runs at 150mm/sec. What happens if I set the R1+ to that speed?
     
  2. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    You will likely have a mess on your hands. Because of the printer style of the R1 (based on the Mendel 90) you won't get speeds much over 60 mm/s with satisfactory results.
     
  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I can promise you makerbot does not run those speeds in reality. Had a 5th gen I was fixing where that was the claim, but at 40mm/s my Robo out ran it on the same print files. Remember, jerk, accel, speed overrides from slicer etc all slow down whatever you set your speeds to.

    I typically suggest as @WheresWaldo did. Not more than 60mm/s. You wont notice much of a time difference at 50mm/s.

    At one time I ran all my R1s around 80mm/s but it wasn't pretty doing the repairs all the time and listening to the horrid noises just wasn't worth it
     
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  4. Bd182

    Bd182 Member

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    Yeah, I looked up the MakerBot 2 online and it doesn't claim 150mm/sec. I loaded MatterControl with a driver for the MakerBot and it's speeds were similar to the R1. I think my friend must have been looking at his maximum travel speed, not printing speeds.

    But, Ultimaker claims 200mm/sec. Do they really such higher print speeds by offloading the weight of the filament feeder to the frame?
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There are a number of ways to get better acceleration and speed without sacrificing stability in a mechanical design such as the printer.
    Less moving parts and/or less moving mass are both valid approaches. A tighter more rigid framework is another (and one reason gantry style printers -- like the R2-- generally are more stable. In the end it is a trade-off like almost everything else in the world :)
     
  6. Bd182

    Bd182 Member

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    I've had my R1 for a month, so I'm green. The feature I most want is more speed. These things are s-l-o-w!
     
  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can by converting to a pure Bowden setup increase the speed and acceleration some (since all of the extruder weight is pushed off somewhere else). But... that is a fair amount of work for what amounts to a less than impressive speed increase :) It matters, but it will not double your print speed (you might achieve a 30%-50% increase if you do it right). There are some projects on here where folks did that if you want to research it.

    Really the only way to get a significantly faster printer is to get a different style.
     
  8. Bd182

    Bd182 Member

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    I'm perfectly happy with my R1 for now. But one dreams of another machine down the road. Can an Ultimaker really print at 200mm/sec?

    Is an R2 the "different style"? I looked up specs, but it rates speed by volume rather than distance. The spec on my R1 is given as distance, so I can't compare them.
     
  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The R2 is A different style (gantry opposed to RepRap/Mendel 90 like the R1)

    If you look at how the belts/axis are setup and movement is done you can see that it is a totally different approach to movement (example -- the bed moves up and down -- not back and forth so there is less opportunity for drive lash in that axis and the gantry itself helps to minimize lash as well). The Z (up and down) is always less violent moves than X or Y :)

    There are many different styles of FDM printers (deltas/polar coordinate printers are yet another) and quite a few styles of SLA/DLP ones too. With a DLP printer Z is the only motion (and that is still slow) .
     
  10. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I have quite a few printers - they are all slow :D. Even my Ultimaker. If you have no need for quality put a volcano hotend on it and print huge layers to get fast prints- they will be uglier- but fast. Its all about how you want your set up to be
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    This.
    I have a volcano on one of 0the R1s and print 1.0mm or 1.2mm nozzles ALL THE TIME
    Fast? Heh, smoking fast compared to the 0.4 nozzle. After all -- 3 times as much plastic is getting put down at once.
    And you really don't sacrifice much on larger models (and small ones are faster so why use a volcano?)
     
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  12. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I finally broke down and have one R1 series running the volcano with a 1.0 nozzle and it makes all my jigs and fixtures. Nice and fast :D ugly if I leave the layer height high (anything over .5 layers and its real ugly) but fast :D Full build volume (about half height) is around 5-8 hours give or take. Nice to have one set up that way for sure.
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Something large I don't care about 1mm lines and heck -- half the time will be sanded, primed, painted anyway.
     
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