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How to choose firmware version?

Discussion in 'Software' started by DobryG, Sep 12, 2016.

  1. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    well, I lost last 1,5 years.. and try to set up my Robo3d from its beeing dusty these time

    it's been delivered to me in april 2014. What version is it?

    but there're lots of firmware variants now

    What i'm gonna choose? What is the better for me?

    So i hadd.t connect to it with mattercontrol 1.2 yet/

    thank you
     
  2. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    well, I renew firmware MC 1.5 and arduino and connect now

    so i need arduino files customization?

    well where can I buy Lead Screw Upgrade kit? It sold out..

    I think i need it! There'were more vibration on Z axis as i remember
     
  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  4. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    Yeah, R1 with 8mm rods, and I have Auto Level on it, or not)))? There's mechanical endstop limit switch on z, but it works not so well. with 0,1 tolerancy i see

    And just one thing: i need to flash arduino, install customization like this? http://prntscr.com/ch4514

    Thanks for the quick response
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    If it only has one Z switch then you need to post a picture (of the Z switch) because that is not an R1.
    The R1 and the R1+ both have two Z switches and autoleveling. The old beta did not.

    If you do not know exactly what machine you have then you can't choose the correct firmware.
     
  6. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    Yeah, I have only 1 z-switch, look at that. So I'm on beta Robo3d?

    Switches sold out, we gonna die
     

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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, that is a beta.
    You can add autoleveling by adding a new Z switch and relocating the old one, but you need to start with the beta firmware and manual leveling.

    Adding autoleveling is really cheap and easy. Cost is one new Z switch and the ability to print the Z switch mounts (the new ones mount up under the X axis crossbar) and you replace the Z axis nuts that ride on the threaded rods. You need to be able to add the second switch in parallel with the original ones wires as well (again, not real hard). From that point on you can use the autoleveling.

    Here are a lot more details, but don't be frightened into thinking it is really hard :) I have converted several beta machines to autoleveling.

    http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:349935
     
  8. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    And don't worry about having to buy the switches from Robo. These aren't Robo specific switches. Here is a pack of 5 for example. https://amzn.com/B00T60QK40
     
    Krish and mark tomlinson like this.
  9. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    Thank you, friends!

    Understand you (so surprise, I found that original Beta had 5/16 rods, I had 8mm rods)

    I can only use that firmware pack now http://prntscr.com/checfh

    But when I get 2nd z-level switch it will be upgrade my robo3d-beta to R1 (full operable autolevelling) i can use that http://prntscr.com/ched3c

    What is the difference with R1+ then?))))


    Can I find these switches on Aliexpress? (never heard banggood, maybe its the same)

    New lead screws improve tolerancy (accuracy)? on Z 0,05 or so?

    I'm gonna order upgrades today..
     
  10. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    R1+ does not use threaded rods. It has leadscrews. No Z axis couplers.
     
  11. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Yes AliExpress (Alibaba) as well as all Chinese superstores (Banggood.com, Tmart.com, DX.com) carry these or comparable switches.
     
  12. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    ОК, couplers will not superfluous, give greater strength. Leave them when upgrade screws

    Will find at aliexpress
     
  13. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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  14. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    Thank you, see that.

    You set up new screws with new motor wheel couplers.. But they looks like standard ones

    they also have to change exactly? what about to leave old ones?

    my screws are necessary to change, one of them slightly bent during transportation)
     

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  15. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Take the couplers off and you will find that they flex. Very different from the ones WW used in his upgrade. They are solid without any flex. So the leadscrews stay straight and don't wiggle around. If the Robo had some sort of support on the top of the leadscrew/threaded rod, then the need for a flexible coupler would be needed. Even so, the type of flexible couplers Robo supplied have only 2 set screws that essentially hug the rod. There are others that have 4 set screws that actually push into the rod and motor shaft making it much more secure. If we want to upgrade you z axis on the cheap but still have great results, I would follow what @WheresWaldo did. The upgrade to using true leadscrews and enhanced rigidity makes for a far smoother wall on the sides of your prints. Something to think about for a future upgrade.

    I would do the dual z axis endstops first so you can get into auto bed leveling at least. Another thing the R1/R1+ has over the beta is it got rid of the drawer glides on the y axis. Haven't seen a clean pic of your y axis but that is another good upgrade. Finally I am not sure if the beta used the all metal hex hotend or not. Maybe early versions of the beta didn't. If you don't at least have the hex hotend, an upgrade to an E3D V6 would be something for a future project as well.

    I guess after all this is said, is your printer printing? Is it printing well? If so, no need to rush into changes. Only when you have an issue is it a good idea to look at making big changes or updating firmware.
     
  16. WheresWaldo

    WheresWaldo Volunteer ( ͠° ͟ʖ ͡°)
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    Even if you want to keep your threaded rods (your printer does not have lead screws) changing to a solid coupler will still make a small difference. If you feel the need to change one of the threaded rods, then you might as well change them both to real lead screws as illustrated in the thread I linked to.
     
  17. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    OK, just for my understand (i need to translate your terms to mine native) what we were talking about

    picture with it marked in colors:

    green - threaded rods. I change them with lead screws
    red - motor wheel couplers. I change them cause of its flexness, to the new solid
    blue - couplers, lust leave them as it is now, don' any change
     

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  18. danzca6

    danzca6 Well-Known Member

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    Blue is actually your smooth rods. The only coupler is what you have circled in red. The smooth rods can stay. With a beta though, the z axis smooth rods aren't secured at the top. You can print something to secure them so they don't wobble either.
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Just printing larger, sturdier bottom mounts solves this too. There are some on thingiverse.
     
  20. DobryG

    DobryG Member

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    Thanks!

    You can see my selfprinted blue bottom mount at the photo, and i've found top mount at thingiverse either, not printed yet)
     

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