How To: Lithophane

There are more complicated and detailed methods for doing what I've been doing to make lithophanes, but this is mainly meant to be a quick-start guide for someone that wants to try their hand at it before paying out money for the better software packages out there that will do the same thing.

First off, you start with your source image. A couple of points to make here:

1. Your image should be grey-scaled and color-balanced for best results. The processor I will link below can do color images, but subtle shade gradients in full color can mess with it vs. shade gradients going from black to white/vice-versa.
2. Actual image size doesn't matter all that much, just keep in mind that you don't want to go too crazy with a huge image file to process.

In this case, here is the source image I'm using:



A very clean, sharp, grey-scaled image that will be easy for the processor software to work with.

Next step, go to http://3dp.rocks/lithophane/ and click on

The page should look like this:



For most cases, these default settings will be okay. I've found that the only real change I may make is to increase the "Vectors Per Pixel" slider to the maximum if I want to re-scale the print size later in my slicer software.

Now, click on Image Settings:



To come to a page that looks like this:



The only setting I would really mess with here is the "Positive Image"/"Negative Image" toggle. What this will do is basically make the "bright" areas on your image either recessed, or raised.

It defaults at Negative, which results in thinner material wherever the whiter portions of your images are. The opposite occurs when you choose Positive Imaging.

Once you're happy fiddling with your settings, go to the Images tab and Upload your source image.



Everyone that has used an image hosting service should be familiar with how this works.

Once you've chosen your file, the app will automatically begin processing it and you should end up with a preview something like this:



If for some reason you get an error screen on the app, you basically have to refresh the web browser and try again with different settings (usually have to either decrease the overall size or lower the number of vectors per pixel).

Next step is to load the file into your slicer (Cura/Repetier/Simplify3D), set it to print at 100% infill and as fine a layer height as you can reasonably expect from your printer and go.

My end result playing around with a 1mm nozzle on the Volcano in Glowfill looks like this held up to the light in the daytime:




Depending on how well it charges today, I'll update this OP with a final photo of the lithophane glowing in the dark.

EDIT: My camera doesn't do "in the dark" photos very well apparently, but here is what comes across in the photo (actual glow is actually pretty cool).

 

For what it's worth, before the current version of S3D I could never get that import to function properly and I haven't tried it since the new update.

Thanks for reminding me of that tool, I'll try it again tonight and add screenshots if it works (or link to S3D's tutorial if they have one already).

edit: Tried in the newest S3D with some sample images and it generates an STL, but nothing is ever visible in the model window.

 

@daniel871

Thank you for the instructions and the utility. Made it very simple tonight to impress my son and his friend next door who's a huge Stephen Curry fan. Now the neighbor wants a 3d printer for Christmas...he's 9. Big wow factor obviously. First time doing a .1mm layer height and it worked perfect. Love this Robo! I'll be doing a lot more of these in the future.