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I would like to turn off auto leveling globally

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Lance Weston, Sep 10, 2018.

  1. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    My IR board does not work. I turned off auto leveling in the Gcode and can now print my manually adjusting the leveling screws. I would like to fine tune the z offset, but the Robo trys to auto level anyway and crashes the head into the bed.
     
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  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    So don't run the Fine tuning wizard. That requires the IR sensor.

    All you can do to fine tune it is to adjust the screws.
     
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  3. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    You can't even (technically) adjust the Z offset with the autoleveling logic anyway since you have that disabled.
    All you can do is manual leveling -- which is fine, but takes time and some patience :)
     
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  4. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    If the auto leveling was off, I could use the fine tuning of the z offset the same as I set z offset without auto leveling.

    I do manual leveling with a dial gauge. I have posted a replacement shroud in thingiverse that has a 1/4-20 mounting hole to mount the gauge. I want to use the fine tune z offset with the circle option to verify and to fine tune the z offset. Right now I have to fine tune the z offset with the leveling screws.

    For those of us printing on glass this would be nice, and all that is required is to let us get to the fine tune z offset without the auto leveling taking place.
     
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    There is fine tuning a global Z offset and there is fine tuning the Z offset for autoleveling.
    The Robo does the latter via the LCD and their wizard :) It stores a value that is fed into the autoleveling calculations for a level plane.
    If Autoleveling is not used neither is that value.

    I get what you want to do, but that wizard will not do it for you.

    I manually level all of my printers and forgo the autoleveling. They are all a bit different in how that is accomplished. On the C2 I used shims on the corner posts.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Open a ticket with Robo and describe what you want for functionality. They may implement it at some point. Worth asking.
     
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  7. Yopz

    Yopz New Member

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    Hey mark, I was wondering if perhaps I've just managed to miss the thread, but do you have a thread detailing the process you use to manually level your bed? (R2)


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  8. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    :) I do not have an R2 (I have a C2, 5 R1 machines and a few other brands -- no R2). However leveling the bed is not really much different regardless of which FDM printer you are using. I'd suggest starting with this video and having a look at how the bed mounts on your nmachine so you know what to adjust to change the leveling. The R1 series had screws on the bed corners that could be used, the C2 you just had to add shims (I used painters tape for layers of shims) there were no adjustment screws.

     
  9. Lance Weston

    Lance Weston Active Member

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    On the LCD goto "calibrate bed" then select manual. I find that adjusting corner to corner back and forth a few times is the fastest way to converge level. once done heat the bed, now use the motor control on the LCD to gradually raise the bed until it just touches a piece of paper between the bed and the nozzle. Manually move the print head around to verify level.

    Partsbuitl.com has the IR boards in stock and these work well.
     

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