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Solved Inconsistent extrusion R1

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by Henradrie, Jan 30, 2021.

  1. Henradrie

    Henradrie New Member

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    I've been working on getting an R1 working. The latest problem I can't solve is inconsistent extrusion. My parts come out looking this.

    The extruder has a tube the filament goes in and is stock as far as I know. Firmware is stock except for the modifications required for the lead screw upgrade. I've run cleaning filament though it and it doesn't appear to be clogged. I've set it to 105% extrusion multiplier.

    Is there anything I haven't thought of.

    Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
    [​IMG]
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Maybe a picture of the extruder and the tube?

    The stock extruder has no such thing (unless you have a really old one -- the beta). While you are doing pictures get one of the bed with no parts on it and another of the spot where the threaded rods go beneath the bed (looking from the top).

    That will nail down for us what exactly you have in terms of the version of the printer and the extruder.

    What is more likely if you bought this second-hand is that there have been modifications from stock and we will need to sort that out before making specific suggestions.

    One thing I can say is that we are more than likely going to be able to help you get this sorted.
     
  3. Henradrie

    Henradrie New Member

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    I'm out of town at the moment but will get pictures when I can. In the meantime here is some more information that might be helpful. Consider this a first of two posts with another to follow.

    I had a z banding issue so I swapped out the 5/16 rods for 8mm integrated leadscrews and followed one of the posts on this forum to print adaptors and modify the firmware. I have 2 z-axis limit switches. There was no bottom plate like the R1+.

    The heated bed is the same size as the R1+ but connects directly to the control board instead of being detachable. It also says Robo R1 on it. There are 3 magnets attaching the glass bed to the sliding mechanism and no adjustment screws.
     
  4. Henradrie

    Henradrie New Member

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    Here are the pictures. [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]

    Tube is 2cm long.

    Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
     
    #4 Henradrie, Jan 31, 2021
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2021
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    OK, that is effectively an R1+.
    If it had no bottom cover then it originally was an R1 beta (or someone just took the cover off and left it). The leadscrew conversion and a replacement hotend would have turned it into an R1+.

    You are missing the screws from the feed on the extruder. The rubber band will not be strong enough to force the filament up against the hobbed bolt consistently so you need to make sure you are using the screws. I assume you just took them out for the picture.
     
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  6. Henradrie

    Henradrie New Member

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    The printer came with 1 screw so I removed it and put the bands on. It also came with parts in a bag. Maybe I'll have something in my stock of random parts that will work to fix it.

    I agree with your assessment. I removed the tube and put more tension on the bands and the print turned out better. Its overextruding, but that's because the extrusion multiplier is set high.

    Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
     
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  7. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The screws are M3 is memory serves, and about 60mm in length. You could swap them to M4 if you wanted (just replace the nut with an M4 as well if you still have the nuts installed).
     
  8. Henradrie

    Henradrie New Member

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    That was too much work compared to doubling up the elastic. Problem solved, at least until the elastic gives out. Not a fix I would recommend, but it worked out.
     
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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Well a working solution is a good solution :) No wrong answers if it works for you :)
     

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