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Solved Issues with auto leveling, printing, Y axis stuttering?

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by sLpFhaWK, Dec 12, 2015.

  1. sLpFhaWK

    sLpFhaWK Member

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    I printed 3 of 4 parts for a spool holder only to realize at the 3rd part was almost finished printing, it wasn't wide enough for a 1kg spool. So i found the right one and i'm going to try printing all 4 parts at once over night so it's finished when i wake up.
     

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  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Great! The paper leveling really should have done it the first time. Just keep that handy.
     
  3. sLpFhaWK

    sLpFhaWK Member

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    so the parts finished but they don't fit together. I have to file some down to get them together but I don't know if I'm over extruding or not how can I tell?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  4. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Do the extruder calibration.
    If they are parts from a known, tested model then you might have a slight variation somewhere.
    Run teh test cube and take measurements with your micrometer.
    If it is your own model then you need to learn how to set your tolerances for printing (not something I can help you with in a forum)
     
  5. sLpFhaWK

    sLpFhaWK Member

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    Yeah I don't own a set of Micrometer's so I'll need to get a set. I printed the one from Novice Expert's video located here. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:188820

    I printed them all at once, I wonder if I Should do one at a time. I Tried filing them down here at work but one of the pieces had some defects, and it wasn't worth filing down when one of the pieces cracked so I'll try again later.
     
  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    HarborFreight has some cheap, but workable mic's
     
  7. sLpFhaWK

    sLpFhaWK Member

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    Yeah that is where I'm going to get a set. My friend bought a pair of digital ones from them but they are garbage, they'll be closed he'll zero them out, open them and close again and it reads a # when it should be zero. So i'll stay away from those =)
     
  8. sLpFhaWK

    sLpFhaWK Member

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    So I set these feet to print before I went to work, and I came home from lunch and saw that have printed like this. Do you think one of the changes I made in the firmware would cause this?
     

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  9. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    What material?
     
  10. sLpFhaWK

    sLpFhaWK Member

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    PLA using temp 205c on the hot end, and 60c on the bed and using glue stick for better adhesion.

    If it matters using Matter Control as the slicer which I don't really care for.
     
  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    OK, if it is PLA then the only thing I can think of that would cause that would maybe be incorrect Z steps/mm. It is not getting layer bonding and visually the layers look awful.

    If it is a new spool of filament it is possible that it is just junk filament.

    Let's start by looking at what exactly did you load for firmware?
     
  12. sLpFhaWK

    sLpFhaWK Member

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    These are the changes I made in the firmware.


    It's RED PLA from Robo themselves, its their brand.

    I can't get into the settings because I'm back at work but if you need them I should be able to provide them to you in a few hrs.
     
  13. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    OK, just sanity check that you have the correct Z steps/mm in the configuration.h that you used.

    #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,800,723.38} // default steps per unit for RoBo 3D R1

    That is correct if you have the leadscrew upgrade or the R1+
     
  14. sLpFhaWK

    sLpFhaWK Member

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    I will check that when I get home Mark and report back.
     
  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I think @WheresWaldo already commented on the one setting being a bit high. Not that I would expect those symptoms from it, but reconsider this instead:

    #define XY_TRAVEL_SPEED 14000

    Perhaps the autoleveling is getting whack values due to drive lash... That is just a wild guess. I'd make sure the Z steps are correct for your model first.
     
  16. sLpFhaWK

    sLpFhaWK Member

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    Yeah I am definitely going to scale that back probably to the 12000 he said. i wish I was home to get to the bottom of these problems. soon time will tell tho!
     
  17. sLpFhaWK

    sLpFhaWK Member

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    Okay, so the settings that I used are as follows.

    205/60 for temps.

    Layer Height .2mm First Layer Height .3mm Top/Bottom solid layers 1mm

    .25 infill i'm not sure if thats % or MM infill type was grid starting angle was 45 degrees infil overlap .06mm

    Speed was 60mm/s raft 100% but I don't think that applies here. inside perimeter 60mm/s outside perimeter 50mm/s

    support material 60mm/s bridges 60mm/s travel 150mm/s 1st layer speed 30%

    These are all in Matter Control. I'd like to start using CURA because I feel its a better slicer, and lets you do more with the settings, but I'm just a bit hesitant because I don't know what they all mean.
     
  18. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Are the Z steps correct in the firmware you loaded?
     
  19. sLpFhaWK

    sLpFhaWK Member

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    Yes they are Mark.

    Here is a 5mm calibration cube I just made, it came out fairly well using Cura but I can't get the skirt off it completely and the top cube is messed up.

    http://imgur.com/a/fpQKr
     
  20. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Yes, skirt removal (like raft removal and support material removal) is a function of how good the slicer is at that stuff. Some suck at it. Others, excel.
     

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