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Solved Jam / Clog new R1 plus

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting' started by FoxFly, Sep 14, 2015.

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  1. aznhlfan

    aznhlfan Active Member

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    The thermistor just wasn't seated properly, got it going thanks. Now a totally different problem.
     
    #21 aznhlfan, Nov 1, 2015
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Welcome to 3D printing.
     
    #22 mark tomlinson, Nov 2, 2015
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  3. janot928

    janot928 Active Member

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    hell yeah
     
    #23 janot928, Nov 2, 2015
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  4. Steve Tran

    Steve Tran New Member

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    I'm trying to twist the nozzle off the heater block but it doesn't look like the threads that are inserted into the nozzle are turning. There's a twisting motion but I'm not sure it's in the right place. It almost feels like it's in the narrow neck. Where is it suppose to unscrew?
     
    #24 Steve Tran, Dec 31, 2015
  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is the heat break. Be careful it is the one part that you can damage.
    The hotend comes apart in 5 parts/sections/pieces:

    1) the heat sink (fins)
    2) the heat break (the narrow neck you refer to)
    3) the heater block
    4) the nozzle
    5) the heater core
     
    #25 mark tomlinson, Dec 31, 2015
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  6. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    When removing the nozzle use two wrenches. One to hold the heater block and the other to turn the nozzle with.
     
    #26 mark tomlinson, Dec 31, 2015
  7. robofish

    robofish New Member

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    Hi Mike, I can't believe I found this thread. I thought I was going crazy with my R1 Plus not matching up with the videos. I have the same problem, except that the aluminum piece shown is now made of plastic. No biggie, but when I turn that screw that is up in the under carriage, it just keeps turning and never comes out, like it is stripped into place. The philips head itself is not stripped. The dang screw just won't come out when I turn it. Any suggestions?
     
    #27 robofish, May 23, 2016
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  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Is the nut on top spinning in the plastic?
     
    #28 Geof, May 23, 2016
  9. robofish

    robofish New Member

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    On further inspection, yes it is. I am a newb. Do I have to take the whole assembly apart, or what do I take off to get to that nut?
     
    #29 robofish, May 23, 2016
  10. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    So thats bad. Snap a picture and request a new part(the housing from robo. The thing you can in the meantime is try to hold the nut with a small flathead to keep it from turning. Its a little difficult but can be done. Youd have to hold it again to get it back togather.

    Easiest thing to do is get a new one under warranty or have one printed. This is the 2nd time ive heard of it happening so it does happen but its rare.
     
    #30 Geof, May 24, 2016
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  11. robofish

    robofish New Member

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    That was the problem. I took off the extruder gears to get to it. Had tried the flathead thing but the nut is on too tight. Called ROBO and got the old 'Experiencing high call volume, leave us a message." Hopefully they will get back to me.

    Thank you for the insight Geof.
     

    Attached Files:

    #31 robofish, May 24, 2016
  12. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I am not a fan of NyLock nuts in that arrangement.
    A lock washer would have been a better choice (heck even Blue Loctite).
     
    #32 mark tomlinson, May 24, 2016
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  13. TomerO

    TomerO Member

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    It should be pretty firmly in place. Make sure your hotend is in position, your plate is pushed well on it and screw tightened nicely

    Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
     
    #33 TomerO, May 24, 2016
  14. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    If the nut is spinning like that, your carriage is basically screwed and you need a new one.
     
    #34 daniel871, May 24, 2016
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  15. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    Exactly and given the design and type of nut this is going to be a fairly common 'thing'
     
    #35 mark tomlinson, May 24, 2016
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  16. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Since its broke anyway id try heating up the nut with a solder iron to remelt the plastic around it? I mean it might get it apart but maybe break again when you try to get it off. At this point i dont know that( if it were me ) id really care since it doesnt work now

    Not telling you to do it telling you what id do :)
     
    #36 Geof, May 24, 2016
  17. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    I'm curious as to how that would happen, because I'm fairly heavy-handed at tightening things and I never stripped that particular location in the assembly on either of my Robo printers. Pretty sure the soft-tipped screwdriver that comes with the Robo would strip before you could torque the screw hard enough to do that.
     
    #37 daniel871, May 24, 2016
  18. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I imagine they are coming that way from the factory with someone with a drill of sorts tightening them. I didnt have my first jam for a few months so it would have been awhile before i noticed
     
    #38 Geof, May 24, 2016
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    That is a nylock nut. The fit of that 'socket'is not tight enough for you to be able to reliably loosen it.

    There is no real need for that style nut either. A lock washer and normal nut would be more than adequate.
     
    #39 mark tomlinson, May 24, 2016
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  20. l bearbow

    l bearbow New Member

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    Are the STL files for the R1 Plus (those different than the R1) available? I would like to upgrade my R1 and the quick release parts and any new carriage would be helpful.
     
    #40 l bearbow, Dec 27, 2016
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