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Just Ordered an R1 Plus

Discussion in 'General Questions' started by Gripp, Apr 25, 2017.

  1. Gripp

    Gripp Member

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    Hello,
    I'm new to the forums and new to this printer. So new, I don't even have it yet. I ordered one today. I do have another 3D printer (mp select mini), so this isn't my first one. I'm still very new to 3D printing. Hopefully I'll be able to learn and contribute with these forums.

    I have some questions I'd like to ask in advance of getting the printer.
    1. I've used cura 15.2.whatever the latest is and I'm also using cura 2.5 beta. I've had success with both of these. I've tried slic3er, kisslicer, and craftware but had bad luck and weird prints come out. What free slicer seems to work the best with this printer? I plan to get simplify 3D at some point in the future. Probably around summer time.

    2. I looked into youtube and saw good things about this, thus why I pulled the trigger on a refurb. Does the R1 Plus still need the z access supports to be printed?

    3. What other easy mods are suggest? I'm not a tech wiz on the mechanical side. Just looking for basic must haves.

    4. Are there any other issues/tips I should know about before jumping in?

    I'm still doing research on my own, but I like to just ask directly as well, in the case that I'll probably miss something.

    Thanks
    Curtis
     
  2. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    First - welcome!

    A move you will not regret.

    I can't say which of the free ones "work best" since I have not used them in years, but repetier host used to be my standard.

    Nope. Feel free to do it if you want, but I do not even run my Robos with the plastic cover on. I have printed items to the max Z height a number of times with no issues. Some people are convinced that the threaded rods wobble makes an artifact on the Z, but I maintain that it would have to be much more severe than a 'wobble' to be really visible. Easy to do mod it you want it though :)

    The plus version doesn't have anything dramatic that needs doing. Play around with it and see what you want after you have used it a bit.
     
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  3. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    Hi There. Congrats on your new printer and welcome to the forum. I'm also a R1+ user. I'd get a LCD controller (XXL requires no firmware change so it is plug and play, full graphics DOES require a change and is NOT plug and play)

    No the machine does not require those supports (or at least none that I'm away of)

    My machine isn't really upgraded a whole lot. I added a 2nd part cooling fan (do this), the LCD controller, and I switch back and forth between a promethius V2 and a E3DV6 hotend.

    Use the printer as it is (maybe add the LCD if you want to print without being hooked up to the computer) until you find something you really dont like about it, then worry about upgrading :D.

    I've used S3D so long I cant really recommend any of the free ones, but alot of people seem to use Cura 15.4.2 or something like that.
     
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  4. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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  5. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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  6. Gripp

    Gripp Member

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    Thanks for the replies. I'm excited to get this thing and print some of the bigger things that my mini can't do. Hopefully faster and better as well.
     
  7. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    I am incredibly interested in seeing how the R1+ stacks up against the Mini, since my personal experience is that the Maker Select V2.1 runs circles around the R1 in every way that matters and the Mini is essentially a smaller V2.1 with built-in Wifi access if you update the firmware.

    On the other side of it, I hope @Gripp got one of the R1 refurbs that actually had someone paying attention during the QC process and not one of the lemons like what I got.
     
  8. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I'm sure R1+ will be fine, and if its not there are many here ready to help him out :D.
     
  9. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    I still say that if there is any sort of issue at all it needs to be fixed by Robo, not by us.
     
  10. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    true, but I wont not help if there is a problem and they want to dig into it themselves :D
     
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  11. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    I think we (everyone with any Robo experience) all agree that you (the customer) needs to "hold their feet to the fire" in terms of honoring their warranty. Even if you are going to do the repairs yourself, make them source the parts. They have also gotten better about simply replacing DOA units (something that they never did in the past).
     
  12. Gripp

    Gripp Member

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    There's always a chance to lemons. When i was looking on the amazon reviews, I saw someone who got a new one that had a broken bed upon arrival. My mini has been fine minus some clogging issue that I worked through this week. This one has the space for some bigger projects that I wanted to make. I'm hoping the quality is the same but I'm hoping this one can print a bit faster. Right now I'm printing mostly at 40mm/s.
     
  13. Geof

    Geof Volunteer Moderator
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    I run my robos between 50 and 80 mm/s depending on layer height and how well tuned the profile is for the filament I use. 40-50 on a cartesian style printer like the MP mini and the R1+ is about average, just rememeber, the bigger the print the longer the print time. Dont be suprised when max build on the mini and max build on the robo have a significant different in print time. If you scale from 100 to 200% it is not scaling time the same way, more like 4x :D
     
  14. KTMDirtFace

    KTMDirtFace Well-Known Member

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    Don't think I posted an amazon review but one of my Robos came with a broken bed as well. Robo sent me a new bed right away. I could have got a new printer, but I was comfortable with just replacing the bed myself.

    I have the Mini select too, its really good for the price and size. Mines a bit noisy/rattly. And I have really only printed PLA with it.
     
  15. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    I posted a review, but the particular version of the R1 listed on Amazon.com was "discontinued" so people will not see my review on listings for the R1 now (at least, not as a "verified purchase").

    My first R1 was one of those that suffered from the thin glass beds that cracked and shattered when the heater cooled down, and was not covered by Warranty.

    The second one was a contest "prize", the less said about that particular printer the better (though you may be able to find the thread about it if you look around enough).

    That said, I really hope the OP intends to immediately escalate to a return/swap for any issues out of the box. They should not be expected to do any work on the printer when Robo is promising out of the box, no calibration printing.

    People need to start holding Robo to that promise so that they will either stop making that promise or learn to perform actual QC on their printers.
     
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  16. Gripp

    Gripp Member

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    I see on the description that this thing can print most exotics. Does that mean that it can out of the box or would I need a nozzle upgrade to print the metals? Wood is the only exotic I have at the moment. I can't get it through my mini without jamming after the first 10 layers or so.

    I'm mostly using cura 2.5 at the moment. What support settings do you guys use for your prints? I can't seem to get them to print without leaving really bad marks on the print. If there is a flat, long overhang, you can count on there being lots of little artifacts stuck to the print after removing the supports. I'm hoping to get some cleaner, high quality prints on both this and my mini if at all possible.
     
  17. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    It theoretically "can" the same way the Mini "can". It's 99% slicer settings and the assumption that you're aware you'll have to replace nozzles every other spool for the highly abrasive ones.

    Wood filament is kind of a different beast because it has a habit of polymerizing in the hotend if the wood filler manages to build up on the inside of the hotend long enough to dry out and start cooking, giving you the mother of all clogs (depending on the filler percentage a given manufacturer uses).
     
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  18. Gripp

    Gripp Member

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    Cool. I was thinking it mean nozzle swapping but wanted to make sure. I don't have immediate plans for anything at the moment. I mostly use pla but want to try some petg and abs at some point.
     
  19. mark tomlinson

    mark tomlinson ༼ つ ◕_ ◕ ༽つ
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    The Hexagon hotend it uses is more than capable of printing pretty much anything with minor adjustments (like nozzle size) or tweaks (like a PTFE tube to help with flexibles)

    ABS is more difficult simply because there is no heated chamber, but there are ways to get it working or use something else that has better properties without the need for a heated chamber -- ABS is not the "best" or "strongest" filament :)
     
  20. daniel871

    daniel871 Well-Known Member

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    Well, let me warn you, once you get PETG figured out you won't want to print in anything else.
     
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