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Keraynopoylos'printer(Chris)

Discussion in 'Show and Tell' started by keraynopoylos, Sep 30, 2013.

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  1. keraynopoylos

    keraynopoylos New Member

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    Hi all. Printer received and over the weekend was initially set up.

    Thanks to everyone for all the help and especially to Tesseract(Jeff) who spent almost 2 days trying to teach me the basics.

    A couple of success stories:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/103707168@N03/10010047946/
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/103707168@N03/10010981353/
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/103707168@N03/10010981343/


    On with questions.

    On the screenshot paste below, you can see the temp curves of the extruder from the beginning of a print.

    The very thin purple line is the target temperature(190 first layer, 180 rest.PLA). The thin curvy red is the actual temperature.

    What does the thick brown line represent?

    Also, the red line, after the 1st layer dives from 190C to almost 170C before going up and stabilizing at 180. Is that normal?

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/103756531@N02/10017467466/


    Also any thought on this failed print(object printing when above screenshot taken)

    The side walls detached about midway through, but also the base layer didnt print right as you can see.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/103707168@N03/10017514965/
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/103707168@N03/10017514955/

    So decided to try to up the temp to 192C(first layer) and 185C(rest) to see if the layer would stick better to each other.

    they_did_not

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/103707168@N03/10017742484/
     
    #1 keraynopoylos, Sep 30, 2013
  2. Printed Solid

    Printed Solid Volunteer Admin
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    Looks like you were able to get some good prints.

    On your problem print: I don't think it's an issue of layers not sticking. It looks like you might not be getting a consistent filament feed. Particularly on the mid-print failure. You could try cleaning out the teeth on the hobbed bolt or watch to see if whatever you're spooling filament off of has a sticking point where the filament becomes a little harder to pull.
     
    #2 Printed Solid, Sep 30, 2013
  3. keraynopoylos

    keraynopoylos New Member

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    The filament is just the sample PLA provided by ROBO3d, shich is just laying on the side, so no tension there.

    However you are right about the hobbed bolt. The filament seems to have slid to the side(and there are some trimmings of PLA on the teeth) as you can see on this pic.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/103756531@N02/10019132946/
    Time to install the hobbed bolt with the dent I guess...
     
    #3 keraynopoylos, Sep 30, 2013
  4. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    Replacing the hobbed bolt with a better one will almost 100% improve your printing. The first cube looks very good and the layers look tight. I found the next thing to do after I could get a simple print like that made was to move the position around the bed and see how it printed in other parts of the bed. It showed me easily if I had a level bed or where problem areas were.
     
    #4 Michael DiFilippo, Sep 30, 2013
  5. keraynopoylos

    keraynopoylos New Member

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    #5 keraynopoylos, Sep 30, 2013
  6. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    Chris congrats on the prints I think the extra line is the average temp if you go into Repetier-Host One the dropdown on the top is temperature and it has several items that can be displayed in the temp window I think you will find the average temp to be your mystery line.

    Also if you have the hobbed bolt and it is the same that most of us got it is a very easy replacement just use the washers to make sure the middle of the groove in the hobbed bolt is aligned as close to the center to the hole as possible.

    Some of the next things you will be wondering about is stringing probably those are the very very thin little string between edges of your prints made as teh extruder moves from area to area.

    One hint on those there is a setting in the slic3r config utility under (at least for MAC) print settings that is labeled Avoid Crossing Perimeters checking that will help immensely to REDUCE the amount of stringing you see but the cause is usually a retraction-temperature-speed-filemant type combination of settings so it is a tough one to adjust for and get right quickly just takes some time and readjustments.
     
    #6 tesseract, Sep 30, 2013
  7. keraynopoylos

    keraynopoylos New Member

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    #7 keraynopoylos, Sep 30, 2013
    2 people like this.
  8. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    Oh the ignorant minds of the innocent, they will learn ... Yes, they will learn

    Cool little print though
     
    #8 tesseract, Sep 30, 2013
  9. keraynopoylos

    keraynopoylos New Member

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    #9 keraynopoylos, Oct 2, 2013
  10. Harry

    Harry Team ROBO 3D
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    WOW Keraynopoylos! Looks like you're getting some great printing! Glad to see you up and running!
     
    #10 Harry, Oct 2, 2013
  11. keraynopoylos

    keraynopoylos New Member

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    On many objects I get from thingverse, layers look like this. This causes the extruder to jump around frantically.

    I would think this both wears down movable parts of the printer and has an impact on thr print quality.

    Why is this and how could it be avoided? I guess setting a smaller layer height wouldn't improve it, as the width of the lines stays the same?

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/103756531@N02/10068645884/
     
    #11 keraynopoylos, Oct 3, 2013
  12. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    Looks like its only doing one perimeter and trying to fill it in, try doing more perimeters to avoid the need for the small amount of fill.
     
    #12 Michael DiFilippo, Oct 3, 2013
  13. keraynopoylos

    keraynopoylos New Member

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    Actually I have it set to 2 perimeters.

    Maybe its trying to "force fit" a second one wherever it can and thats why its inconsistent like this.

    So maybe it should be 1 perimeter+no infill...
    It will be over in a bit less than 3 hours, so will try that...

    Thanks for the reply Michael!
     
    #13 keraynopoylos, Oct 3, 2013
  14. polylac

    polylac New Member

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    I found out that if a wall is very small this often happens. Because the with of the wall divided by the with of the layer is somewhat like 2.5 oder 2.8 (oder 3.3 whatever)...
    So somethimes it finds: here i round it up and gives an infill
    in other parts: round it down.

    So two possible solutions: Make the wall thinner or thicker till it fits
    or use a smaller nozzle (or print the layer smaller).
    If you change the settings for the with of one line, it will fit better (but also effects the print etc.)
     
    #14 polylac, Oct 3, 2013
  15. keraynopoylos

    keraynopoylos New Member

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    So printing a thinner layer gives a thinner width(footprint?) on the line the nozzles prints too?
     
    #15 keraynopoylos, Oct 3, 2013
  16. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    the better solution would be to set one of the parameters in slic3r that is avoid crossing perimeters which should make it try and stay along the perimeter when moving to different parts to print but where and tear is minimal in these kinds of moves slowing the speed would also have an affect that decreases the stress you see happening but you should be working with this mind set the printer is made to print whatever it is given you should not have to design around it.
    There are many thing in place to help alleviate the stresses
     
    #16 tesseract, Oct 3, 2013
  17. keraynopoylos

    keraynopoylos New Member

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    #17 keraynopoylos, Oct 3, 2013
    2 people like this.
  18. tesseract

    tesseract Moderator
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    I like that one
     
    #18 tesseract, Oct 3, 2013
  19. 1d1

    1d1 Active Member

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    Wow. You're having a kind of printgasm, aren't you? Great stuff!
     
    #19 1d1, Oct 3, 2013
    2 people like this.
  20. Michael DiFilippo

    Michael DiFilippo Active Member

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    looking great chris!
     
    #20 Michael DiFilippo, Oct 3, 2013
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